涤粘有色雨滴纱系列产品立意新颖,织物表面好似"雨滴"在空中飞舞,有很强的立体感,深受用户喜爱.本文以 18.5 tex涤粘有色雨滴纱为例,介绍其开发生产的要点.

为了开发天然彩棉/细绒棉混纺纱,依据原料性能确定CJ 14.6 tex混纺针织纱配棉比例、工艺流程,对其清梳联、并粗、精梳、细纱、络筒工序的工艺参数进行优化.通过对比优化前后的成纱质量指标,表明:使用30％天然彩棉(棕色)和70％普通细绒棉纺CJ 14.6 tex混纺针织纱,须遵循减少纤维损伤的工艺原则;梳棉工艺对纱线质量影响较大,应采用锋利度好、耐磨性佳的优质针布以增强分梳、减少纤维损伤;优化各工序工艺参数,合理控制车间温湿度以及加强管理后,成纱条干CV值明显改善,100 km纱疵减少,生产效率提高.

传统环锭纺包芯纱存在一定的技术缺陷,容易出现包覆不良、芯丝外露的现象,造成染色、上色不匀的情况,影响后道工序加工,严重时影响布面效果.而喷气涡流纺的快速发展,为彻底解决包芯纱包覆不良、芯丝外露等问题提供了技术条件.试验发现,如果将芯丝比例控制在 20％以下,芯丝外露的现象几乎可以杜绝.以喷气涡流纺莱赛尔18. 5 tex(涤纶DTY 33. 3 dtex/36 F)包芯纱为例,介绍其生产要点.

In order to spin polyester/viscose colored spun yarns well with vortex spinning, the raw material index and spinning process flow are introduced by taking the spinning of black T/R 19.7 tex yarn as an example.We should focus on several aspects of optimization such as the carding cotton adopting the “LU S” spinning process heavy quantitative configuration, and paying attention to improving the fiber straightness and parallelism, optimizing the key points of vortex spinning process parameters and electric cleaning and splicer.Through the comparison of yarn quality before and after optimization, it is shown that the operation management, optimization of process configuration and strict control of temperature and humidity should be strengthened for spinning black T/R 19.7 tex yarn with vortex spinning.The spinning speed can reach 500 m/min, the production efficiency is about 98.5%,and the yarn quality is good.

In order to give full play to the technological advantages of high-speed drawing frame,the performance advantages of TD 10 drawing frame are introduced from aspects of digital technology,mechanical and electrical automation technology,autoleveller,quality detection and analysis system,process parameter optimization recommendation system,process quality man-agement system,automatic cylinder changing system and so on.The drawing process parame-ters and yarn quality of rotor spinning OE 48.6 tex yarn,polyester color spinning special black T 18.5 tex yarn and vortex spinning viscose R 14.8 tex yarn are compared and analyzed of TD 10 drawing frame and FA317 drawing frame.The results show that the TD 10 drawing frame has the advantages of high production capacity,high efficiency and high automation,and its design speed can reach 1000 m/min,the yield is much higher than that of FA317 drawing frame,and the level of sliver evenness and spinning quality are obviously improved after using many new technologies.

In order to enrich the structure of vortex spinning products, develop vortex spinning viscose hemp yarn and enhance the added value of products. Compared with ordinary natural color viscose products, this paper discusses the key points of process configuration in each process of viscose hemp yarn production, standardizing operation methods and optimizing process configuration, and strictly control temperature and humidity standards, which can make the spinning speed of VORTEX 870 EX vortex spinning reach more than 520 m/min and the production efficiency reach about 99.0%, providing practical experience and technical support for developing viscose hemp yarn by vortex spinning.

为了丰富喷气涡流纺纱线产品结构,文章介绍了喷气涡流纺涤/粘色纺纱线的开发生产实践,进一步提升了涤/粘喷气涡流纺产品的附加值.通过与普通本色涤/粘产品对比,阐述了涤/粘色纺纱各工序工艺配置要点;通过对色纺原料性能进行分析,选择合理的工艺方案并优化其各项参数,成功生产出19.7 tex特黑涤/粘喷气涡流纺纱线,其品质完全达到客户各项指标要求,为开发喷气涡流纺涤/粘色纺纱线品种提供了实践经验参考.

黏胶麻灰纱对纺纱技术要求特别高,加强梳理、控制色差和色结是关键.为提升黏胶麻灰纱产品质量,优选梳理器材、优化生产工艺,选用黑色黏胶和本色黏胶,经过人工混棉,纺制黏胶麻灰系列纱线,通过优化生产工艺、严控色结,达到独特混色效果.黏胶麻灰纱线的开发生产克服了传统针织用纱染色后制成的服装面料洗涤褪色的缺点,避免白坯布染色容易产生色差的弊端.进行黏胶麻灰纱系列产品试验,为麻灰产品的开发和创新提供了技术研究数据和生产实践经验.

In order to test and promote the heavy weight per unit process in vortex spinning production, improve the yarn quality, reduce the configuration of the front spinning machine and reduce the production cost, the vortex spinning R 19.7 tex yarn is taken as an example to introduce the key points of the process configuration and optimize the related parameters.Through the comparison of yarn quality before and after optimization, it is shown that the soft opening of the cleaning process can reduce the fiber damage; the carding process realizes the “flexible carding” under the condition of heavy weight per unit of card slive.The drawing process adopts low blending, small drafting and slow speed to achieve “flexible drafting” and improve the fibers’ straight parallelism.It is pointed out that the yarn index can be improved obviously by using the heavy weight per unit technology.When the heavy weight per unit of half product is increased by 25%,the speed of the VORTEX 870 EX spinning machine can reach 540 m/min and the production efficiency is over 99%.

纺制黏胶麻灰纱对技术要求高,控制色差和色结是关键.选用黑色和本色黏胶,经过人工混棉,纺制黏胶麻灰系列纱线,通过优化生产工艺、严控色结,达到独特混色效果.黏胶麻灰纱的开发生产克服了传统针织用纱染色后制成的服装面料洗涤褪色的缺点,避免了白坯布染色产生色差.

为控制色纺纱纱疵,保证布面效果,稳定织物风格,对色纺纱的生产工艺进行优化和改进.例如梳棉精选新型锡林针布,采用柔性梳理,减少纤维损伤;并条工序减少并合根数、降低总牵伸倍数与牵伸不匀率、稳定条干水平,提升纤维伸直平行度;细纱工序适当放大罗拉隔距,增大钳口隔距块,减少细小纱疵.经过系列工艺优化措施,使色纺纱纱疵大幅降低,提高自络生产效率,改善布面质量,收到明显的效果.应用新型梳理器材和工艺优化措施,突破了传统工艺中"轻定量、紧隔距"的理念,可大大减少色纺纱纱疵,为色纺企业质量管理和工艺研究提供了实践经验和创新思路.

分析再生有色涤纶短纤的技术特性,幵与原生涤纶的性能进行比较,针对再生有色涤纶短纤断裂强度低和断裂伸长率低的缺陷,应用柔性工艺,减少了在开松、梳理和牵伸过程中对纤维的损伤.结果表明:优化工艺后,成纱质量水平提高,在降低千米棉结和十万米纱疵方面效果明显,同时提高了自络生产效率,可为色纺企业提高纱线品质,提供实践经验和工艺创新思路.

为了推广优势工艺,对梳棉重定量进行了工艺优化试验.通过合理选择工艺配置,精选梳理器材,在JWF1213高产梳棉机上实现了生条重定量条件下的"柔性梳理",结合半制品、成纱质量,与传统工艺进行了对比分析,验证了优势工艺在生产中可广泛推广应用的可行性.

为满足高端市场对特细特纱质量的要求、提升产品的市场竞争力、增加产品附加值,进行了精梳纯棉特细特纱的工艺优化.针对精梳纯棉特细特纱截面纤维根数少、纺纱难度大的特点,合理选配纺纱原料,优化遴选工艺参数,采用新型的梳理针布和先进的纺纱专件器材,所生产的精梳纯棉特细特纱产品质量满足客户要求,符合优等纱的国家质量标准,为开发生产特细特纱提供了参考.

为了合理推行优势纺纱工艺,在提高成纱产质量前提下提高效益降低成本,以生产阳离子T/R 70/3018.5 tex纱为例,对梳棉重定量工艺进行优化试验;分析优势纺纱工艺对各工序的要求,通过合理选择工艺配置,精选梳理器材,优化工艺参数,在JWF1213型高产梳棉机实现生条重定量条件下,对比分析其工艺优化前后的参数,验证优势纺纱工艺在生产中广泛推广的可行性和科学性.指出:梳棉重定量是优势纺纱工艺配置的重点与难点,合理采用优势纺纱工艺后,生条定量提升20％的同时能提高半制品质量和成纱质量、提升生产效率.

通过加强操作管理和优化工艺,如梳棉工序采用6S工艺中的重定量配置、并条工序减少并合根数、降低总牵伸倍数与牵伸不匀率、提高纤维伸直平行度、严格控制温湿度,可使村田870 EX型涡流纺纱机速度达到540 m/min,生产效率为99％左右,每台机器的R19.7 tex纱产量达到60 kg/h以上.

为了纺制涤黏混纺麻灰纱,选用黑色涤纶、本白涤纶和本色黏胶混纺,经过人工混棉和优化生产工艺来严控色结.纱线色彩自然均匀,表面光洁柔和,色泽耐久不褪,改善了以往针织用纱染色后制成的服装面料洗涤后容易褪色的缺点,避免了白坯布染色制成的服装易产生色差的弊端.试验为选用不同纤维开发麻灰纱系列产品提供了技术研究数据和生产实践经验.