Cosmetic Products Containing Natural Based Emollients For Restoring Impaired Skin Barrier: Formulation And In Vivo Evaluation

The skin barrier helps to protect the skin against external harmful factors and to prevent the excessive water loss. Numerous extrinsic and intrinsic factors may impair the skin barrier, leading to dry and damaged skin. The aim of this study was the development of two cosmetic creams for restoring the integrity of the epidermal barrier. Persea americana fruit oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Vitellaria paradoxa butter were chosen as natural based emollients. Subsequently, viscosity and texture analysis of the creams were determined and the efficacy evaluation through biophysical measurements was carried out on human volunteers. The results of hydration level and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) showed an improvement in skin barrier function, as both parameters were significantly increased following a four-week application period. Volunteers have experienced an improvement in the appearance of the skin, which encourages the long-term use of the products, a necessary condition to improve the skin barrier function.