Background The escalating global demand for sustainable natural skincare has positioned essential oils (EOs) as vital multifunctional bioactive ingredients, yet an integrated mapping of their research trajectories, formulation strategies, and dermatological potentials is lacking. Objectives This study maps global trends for EOs as active ingredients in skincare (EOAISC) via bibliometric analysis and synthesizes their mechanistic biological potentials. Methods A hybrid Bibliometric-Systematic Literature Review (B-SLR) was conducted via Scopus following PRISMA guidelines, focusing strictly on EOs as active ingredients. Visualizations were generated using VOSviewer for keyword co-occurrence, and source quality was verified via SJR metrics. Results Out of 244 records, 75 articles across 51 journals met the criteria. Mapping revealed four thematic clusters: (1) antimicrobial efficacy and in vitro testing, (2) antioxidant activity and phytochemical characterization, (3) terpene constituent profiling and regulatory classification, and (4) advanced cellular and in vivo models. Publication output peaked in 2023, led by China and the USA. Emulsion-based systems dominated formulations, and 41.3% of studies confirmed multi-functional bioactivities, dominated by antioxidant and antimicrobial actions. Conclusion The EOAISC landscape remains concentrated in early translational phases, while advanced formulation and clinical-regulatory translation represent key structural bottlenecks. A post-2020 paradigm shift shows evolution from basic screening toward advanced delivery and cellular validation, though regulatory terminology remains isolated from the core network. Chemotype-stratified synthesis matches specific phenolics and terpenes to distinct dermatological functions. Transitioning to evidence-based practice requires integrating AI-assisted chemotype prediction, multi-omics validation, green nanocarriers (Pickering emulsions, SLNs, NLCs), and clinical trials aligned with IFRA and EU Cosmetics Regulations.
Background The incorporation of Brazilian Cerrado bark extracts into powder makeup systems remains largely unexplored, despite the growing interest in multifunctional cosmetics containing plant-derived bioactive ingredients. Objective This study aimed to develop and characterize powder foundation formulations containing Guazuma ulmifolia Lam. and Cedrela fissilis Vell. bark extracts and to investigate their antioxidant activity, physicochemical stability, microbiological quality, and estimated in vitro UV SPF. Materials and Methods Powder foundations containing G. ulmifolia, C. fissilis, or their combination were developed and evaluated for organoleptic characteristics, loss on drying, sieve-passing fraction, apparent tapped density, pH, antioxidant activity, microbiological quality, and estimated in vitro SPF. Selected formulations were subjected to a 90-day accelerated stability study under different temperature conditions. Results All formulations showed suitable preliminary technological characteristics and microbiological quality. Formulations containing G. ulmifolia, alone or combined with C. fissilis, exhibited the highest antioxidant activity and maintained this activity throughout storage. Powder dispersions in glycerin yielded SPF values above 40. Conclusion The incorporation of G. ulmifolia and C. fissilis bark extracts into powder foundation formulations was technologically feasible, with G. ulmifolia exhibiting the most promising antioxidant performance. High estimated in vitro SPF values were observed when the formulations were dispersed in glycerin, highlighting the importance of adequate film formation for achieving effective photoprotective performance. Overall, these findings support the potential of the developed formulations as multifunctional cosmetic products combining antioxidant and photoprotective properties.
Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a highly prevalent, progressive hair disorder with significant psychosocial impact and limited long-term therapeutic success using currently approved treatments. While minoxidil and finasteride remain the clinical mainstays, their variable efficacy, need for lifelong use, and risk of adverse effects underscore the necessity for improved and more targeted interventions. This review provides a critical and integrative analysis of contemporary AGA management, extending beyond conventional pharmacotherapy to include nano-enabled drug delivery systems, regenerative medicine approaches, micronutrient modulation, phytotherapeutics, and emerging molecular targets. Distinct from prior narrative reviews, this article systematically correlates formulation parameters (particle size, entrapment efficiency, release kinetics, and follicular deposition) of nanocarriers with biological outcomes, highlighting their role in enhancing follicular targeting, minimizing systemic exposure, and improving therapeutic durability. In parallel, recent advances in topical antiandrogens, mitochondrial metabolism modulators, stem-cell–based therapies, platelet-rich plasma, low-level laser therapy, and 3D bioprinting are critically appraised with respect to translational readiness. The review further integrates patent landscapes, regulatory status, and clinical trial evidence, identifying key gaps that hinder bench-to-bedside progression. By synthesizing multidisciplinary evidence, this review proposes a future-oriented, multi-targeted treatment framework for AGA that emphasizes personalized therapy, combination regimens, and advanced follicular drug-delivery strategies. This integrative perspective aims to guide future research and accelerate the clinical translation of next-generation therapies for androgenetic alopecia.
Purpose This study investigates the synthetic cyclo-dodecapeptide RCP1203, characterized by a disulfide bond formed from natural amino acids, and assesses the effects of structural modifications on its biological activity. First, two variants of the parent cyclo-dodecapeptide RCP1203 were designed: RCP1209, with lysine replaced by ornithine, and RCP1206, in which a disulfide bond is replaced by a 1,2,3-triazole linkage to enhance stability and bioactivity. Additionally, the study compares the yield, purity, and material efficiency of RLTBIO synthesis with traditional solid-phase synthesis methods. Methods The biological activities of RCP1203, RCP1209, and RCP1206 were evaluated through in vitro assays, including MTT assays for cytotoxicity and cell proliferation, plasma stability tests, scratch assays for cell migration, and hyaluronic acid (HA) transdermal absorption studies. RCP1206 was synthesized using both RLTBIO synthesis and traditional solid-phase methods, integrating non-natural amino acids and triazole stabilization. Results All peptides demonstrated low cytotoxicity. RCP1209 and RCP1206 exhibited superior plasma stability (>74% compared with 65% at 48 h), enhanced HaCaT and HUVEC proliferation (126%/128% compared with 123% for HaCaT; 120%/122% compared with 117% for HUVEC at 50 µg/mL), and promoted wound healing, with RCP1206 showing the highest efficacy. RCP1206 also achieved the greatest transdermal enhancement (3.71-fold). RLTBIO Synthesis doubled yields and halved Fmoc-amino acid consumption. Conclusion The biological activities of RCP1203, RCP1209, and RCP1206 were evaluated. These in vitro findings suggest their potential for use in cosmetic formulations. These peptides show potential as ingredients for anti-aging and skin-repair formulations, and may be particularly suitable for use in products designed for sensitive skin. Ornithine substitution and triazole linkage enhance plasma stability, promote cell proliferation, and improve hyaluronic acid (HA) delivery efficiency. RLTBIO synthesis provides a sustainable, PFAS-free platform for green synthesis of diverse functional peptides, advancing the cosmetics industry’s PFAS replacement initiative.
Background Color cosmetics are applied to anatomically sensitive sites, yet post-market adverse-event patterns for eye, lip, and face makeup remain incompletely characterized in public regulatory data. Objective To construct a reproducible openFDA-based adverse-event atlas for color cosmetics and identify category-specific disproportionality signals to support cosmetovigilance and signal triage. Materials and Methods We analysed the openFDA cosmetic adverse event reports dataset (last updated 15 Dec 2025). Reports involving suspect eye, lip, or face color cosmetics were identified through rule-based product mapping, with nail-related products excluded. Reactions were summarised at report level using MedDRA preferred terms. Category-reaction patterns were visualised using a heatmap and bipartite network, and reporting odds ratios (RORs) was calculated in the single-category subset using other colour cosmetic categories as comparators. Sensitivity analyses assessed report version, report type, and the 2019 reporting spike. Results Among 85,511 cosmetic adverse event reports, 619 met the case definition. Most reports involved female consumers (571/619, 92.2%); age was available for 413/619 (66.7%), with a median age of 37 years (interquartile range [IQR], 27–53). The single-category subset included 599 reports: 280 eye-only, 184 lip-only, and 135 face-only. Fifty-four category-reaction pairs met the signal definition. Eye products showed signals for ocular hyperaemia, eye infection, and eye irritation; lip products for oral discomfort, lip swelling, and cheilitis; and face products for urticaria, rash, and erythema. Key signals remained directionally stable in sensitivity analyses. Conclusion A structured openFDA workflow can convert heterogeneous cosmetic adverse-event reports into an interpretable color-cosmetics safety atlas and hypothesis-generating disproportionality signals, supporting targeted follow-up by regulators, clinicians, and manufacturers.
Background Ampelopsis grossedentata (Hand.-Mazz.) W.T.Wang (AG) has a variety of ingredients and has immunomodulatory, hypoglycemic, and lipid-lowering effects. Dihydromyricetin (DMY) is one of the main functional ingredients in AG. Objective To evaluate the efficacy of DMY from AG and develop a multi-functional and highly active product of DMY to use in cosmetics. Material and methods The DMY samples were identified by analytical techniques including HPLC, IR, MS, and NMR. Efficacy tests include DPPH, ABTS, and ROS free radical scavenging; oil antioxidant test, promotion of caudal fin regeneration in zebrafish; promotion of Type I collagen in HFF-1 cells; LPS-induced inhibition of IL-6, inhibition of melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells, inhibition of collagenase and tyrosinase, etc. Results At 7.5 μg/mL, the downregulation rates of IL-6 was 12.12%. At 10.0 μg/mL, the DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging rate were 63.66% and 100.00%, the ROS clearance rate of zebrafish was 12.00%, and the repairing rate was 23.20% in zebrafish. At 15.0 μg/mL, the inhibition rate of collagenase and tyrosinase were 35.00% and 35.23%, and the promotion rates of type I collagen in HFF-1 cells was 19.09%. At 100.0 μg/mL, the relative melanin content in B16 melanoma cells was 60.34%. Adding 0.01% of DMY in camellia seed oil and Olea europaea oil at 65°C for 28 days, the oxidation process was delayed by 88.35% and 65.69%, which were better than 0.05% BHT (72.30% and 62.16%). Conclusion These findings suggest that DMY from AG has good anti-oxidation, anti-inflammatory, repairing, anti-wrinkling, and whitening effects, so it has broad application prospects as a natural functional ingredient in cosmetics.
Background Dysregulation of melanin metabolism is a primary cause of skin hyperpigmentation, making the regulation of melanin synthesis and transfer a key focus in skin-whitening research. Haematococcus pluvialis extract (HPE), a potent natural antioxidant, is widely used in cosmetics. Thus, HPE is a potential candidate for the development of skin-whitening agents. Objective This study aims to investigate the effects of HPE on melanin synthesis and melanosome transfer, and the synergistic interactions with niacinamide (NAM). Methods α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced mouse melanoma cells (B16F10) were used to evaluate the effects of HPE and NAM on tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. A transwell coculture system of human keratinocyte cells (HaCaT) and human melanoma cells (MNT-1) was established to further investigate the impact of HPE, NAM, and their combination on melanin synthesis and melanosome transfer. The combination index (CI) was calculated using the Bliss Independence model. Results In B16F10 cells, HPE significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis, with inhibition rates of 22% and 34%, respectively (p < 0.05). The transwell coculture system further demonstrated that HPE markedly reduced both melanin content and the number of melanosomes in HaCaT cells (p < 0.05). Additionally, the combination of HPE and NAM demonstrated the synergistic effect on melanin transfer (CI < 1). Conclusion This study demonstrates that HPE’s skin-whitening effect is achieved by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and melanosome transfer, thereby reducing melanin production. These findings provide a more comprehensive understanding of HPE's mode of action. Furthermore, the synergistic enhancement between HPE and NAM paves the way for novel skin-whitening product formulations.
Background Vitiligo is a chronic depigmenting disorder with substantial psychosocial burden. Conventional therapies (topical corticosteroids, calcineurin inhibitors, phototherapy) have variable efficacy and tolerability, prompting growing interest in integrative and complementary treatments (ICTs). Objective To synthesize evidence on the efficacy and safety of ICTs compared with conventional therapies in vitiligo and to outline their potential role, advantages, and limitations in clinical decision-making.Data Sources and Study EligibilityWe systematically searched MEDLINE (PubMed), Embase, CENTRAL, LILACS, and the ICTRP and ClinicalTrials.gov trial registries from inception to the review date for randomized and quasi-experimental comparative studies evaluating ICTs (e.g., botanicals, fire needle therapy, microneedling-assisted drug delivery) versus conventional topical treatments or placebo in patients with vitiligo. Methods Two reviewers independently screened records, selected studies, extracted data, and assessed risk of bias using the Cochrane RoB 2 tool. When at least two clinically and methodologically similar trials reported comparable dichotomous outcomes, we pooled effect estimates using random-effects meta-analysis and expressed results as risk ratios (RRs) with 95% confidence intervals (CIs). Results Six randomized controlled trials (total n = 255) met inclusion criteria; no eligible quasi-experimental or observational comparative studies were identified. Interventions included topical turmeric cream, oral Ginkgo biloba, fire needle therapy alone or combined with tacrolimus, microneedling-assisted delivery of calcipotriol plus betamethasone versus tacrolimus, and the traditional Chinese formulation Zengse Pill. Across individual trials, several ICTs achieved statistically significant improvements in repigmentation, lesion area reduction, or disease arrest compared with placebo or active comparators. Three studies were judged at overall low risk of bias and three had some concerns, mainly regarding allocation concealment and blinding. An exploratory meta-analysis of two trials (Zengse Pill and Ginkgo biloba) yielded a nonsignificant pooled RR of 2.05 (95% CI 0.79–5.35; I² = 52.6%), reflecting imprecision and moderate heterogeneity. Adverse events were generally mild and manageable (local irritation, transient erythema/itching, occasional mild nausea), and no serious treatment-related events were reported. Limitations The evidence base is constrained by small sample sizes, short follow-up, heterogeneity of ICT protocols and outcome measures, incomplete reporting of key determinants such as Fitzpatrick phototype, and potential confounding by ambient ultraviolet exposure in predominantly tropical or subtropical study settings. Conclusions Current data suggest that selected ICTs may serve as well-tolerated adjunctive options for patients with vitiligo, particularly when conventional therapies are insufficient or poorly tolerated. However, the certainty of benefit remains low due to methodological limitations and heterogeneity. Larger, multicenter randomized trials with longer follow-up and standardized outcome sets are needed before ICTs can be routinely integrated into vitiligo treatment algorithms.Registration: PROSPERO: 1141017. PRISMA 2020 guidelines were followed.
The skin’s outermost stratum corneum serves as a formidable barrier to the efficient delivery of cosmetic actives, particularly hydrophilic or high-molecular-weight compounds which often fail to penetrate to the viable epidermis or dermis. In recent years, microneedle (MN)‐based delivery systems have emerged as a minimally invasive, precise and versatile platform to overcome this barrier and enhance intradermal delivery of cosmetic and dermatologic actives. This review examines the recent advances in microneedle technology—covering various designs (solid, coated, dissolving, hollow, hydrogel-forming), materials, fabrication methods, and mechanistic considerations—within the context of skin-care and aesthetic dermatology. We then highlight key applications of MNs in cosmetic fields including anti‐aging and skin rejuvenation (e.g., delivery of peptides, retinoids, growth factors), pigmentation and whitening therapies, acne and sebum control, hydration/barrier repair, and hair‐growth/scalp treatments. Safety, regulatory and consumer-acceptance issues of microneedle cosmetic platforms are discussed, alongside current market trends and commercial product developments emphasizing the need for sustainable and responsible innovation in product development. Finally, we explore the future perspectives of MN-based cosmetic delivery — including smart or stimuli-responsive microneedles, personalized patches, integration with wearables/IoT, and challenges such as large‐area coverage and manufacturing scale-up. We conclude that microneedle‐based systems hold significant potential to shift cosmetic delivery from passive topical application toward controlled intradermal administration, thereby bridging cosmetic science and aesthetic dermatology, albeit with further clinical validation and standardized regulatory frameworks required.
Bioactive peptides have emerged as powerful functional ingredients in cosmetics, valued for their rapid action, high specificity, and low toxicity. These short amino acid sequences can deliver antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-aging, UV-protective, and skin-brightening effects by selectively interacting with biological targets in the skin. This review offers a comprehensive synthesis of recent advances in the field, from peptide classification and skin-related mechanisms of action to production methods and discovery technologies. Key peptide classes are outlined by their functions and pathways, followed by a comparative analysis of current production routes—chemical synthesis, enzymatic protein hydrolysis, and recombinant biosynthesis via synthetic biology—highlighting each approach’s advantages, limitations, and scalability for cosmetic use. Strategies to enhance peptide stability and delivery are discussed, including chemical modifications (e.g., acetylation, lipidation, cyclization) that improve resistance to degradation and innovative formulation approaches (such as liposomes, nanoparticles, and other carriers) that facilitate effective skin penetration. Furthermore, high-throughput discovery platforms, including phage display libraries and artificial intelligence (AI)-driven computational design (e.g., machine learning and deep learning), are dramatically improving the efficiency and precision of identifying and optimizing new bioactive peptides. Enabled by these technological innovations, the field is rapidly evolving: synthetic biology and bioinformatics now allow large-scale peptide biosynthesis and rational design of multifunctional peptides. Continued progress in production, stabilization, and AI-guided design is expected to overcome current challenges and fully unlock the potential of bioactive peptides in next-generation cosmetic formulations.
Anoectochilus roxburghii, a homology of medicine and food, holds significant promise for skincare applications due to its bioactive components, including polysaccharides, flavonoids, and kinsenosides. This review systematically summarizes recent advances in dermatological research on A. roxburghii, focusing on its core biological activities—including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, barrier‑repairing, and skin‑brightening effects—as well as the underlying mechanisms. It further examines current product applications, identifies the primary obstacles in the development and translation of A. roxburghii‑based products, and outlines promising directions for future innovation.
In this study, 69 batches of liquid foundation products were tested for heavy metal risk. Background Liquid foundation products are highly regarded by consumers for their ability to conceal blemishes, enhance facial features, and create an even skin tone. In recent years, there have been sporadic reports of heavy metals detected in air cushion products. Objective This research aims to ensure ingredient transparency, comply with the Chinese Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics (2015), enhance consumer trust in products and protect consumer health. Methods This study utilizes inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) to analyze the heavy metal content. The study also investigated the primary sources of risk associated with thallium (Tl), a potent neurotoxin. Results The concentrations of some detected prohibited components are within the safety standard (the Chinese Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics (2015) range. However, Tl was found in 2 batches of liquid foundation products that were greater than the reference limits. Conclusion This study revealed a high detection rate of thallium in samples containing zinc oxide. Further exploration suggests this may be related to the zinc oxide production process. It is suggested that manufacturers strengthen raw material oversight, adopt advanced Tl removal technologies, and ensure product safety through third-party testing. Additionally, establishing a health risk model for thallium based on exposure levels is imperative, along with refining safety thresholds for vulnerable populations, such as pregnant women and children.
Nymphaea spp., possess prominent ornamental value, well-documented traditional medicinal utility, and diverse phytochemical reservoirs, making them a high-potential yet underutilized resource in cosmetic ingredient development. Despite growing interest, existing research suffers from critical limitations, including fragmented extraction reports without cross-method comparison, unclear correlations between phytoconstituents and cosmetic functions, and insufficient integration of toxicity and efficacy data for safety evaluation, which significantly hinders its translational development into functional cosmetic ingredients. To bridge these gaps, this review first systematically summarizes the extraction technologies for bioactive compounds from Nymphaea spp. and then clarifies the selection criteria for optimal extraction methods. Subsequently, it categorizes the key bioactive constituents of Nymphaea, including polyphenols, flavonoids, polysaccharides, and volatile components, while elaborating on their mechanisms of action in cosmetic-relevant functions such as antioxidation, anti-aging, anti-inflammation, and skin-lightening. Additionally, existing studies on the toxicity evaluation and safety of Nymphaea-derived components, which ensure a comprehensive assessment of their suitability for cosmetic use, were also discussed and synthesized. By integrating the above-mentioned insights, this review establishes a unified translational framework: academically, it addresses the lack of systematic synthesis on Nymphaea’s cosmetic potential; industrially, it provides actionable guidelines for screening high-efficacy, low-toxicity ingredients and green extraction processes, directly meeting the industry’s demand for evidence-based natural skincare resources.
To evaluate the soothing and reparative effects of Prinsepia utilis Royle oil in cosmetics, network pharmacology was employed to analyse the common targets of P. utilis Royle oil and skin inflammation and repair. Network analysis and enrichment analyze were conducted to identify potential possible pathways and targets. Subsequently, the soothing and reparative effects of P. utilis Royle oil were verified through cellular and zebrafish experiments by measuring relevant indicators. The results indicated that AKT1, EGFR, TNF, LCK, and CDC42 were the primary gene targets associated with skin inflammation and repair. The oil demonstrated soothing and reparative properties related to kinase binding, peptide regulation, leukocyte regulation, hydrolase activity, and T cell receptor signaling pathway. At volume concentrations of 0.1 %, 0.05 %, and 0.01 %, the oil significantly inhibited the secretion of nuclear factor NF-κB and histamine in mouse mast-cell tumor P815 cells, and it also significantly suppressed the secretion of tumor necrosis factor TNF-α in zebrafish. Furthermore, it markedly promoted the repair and expression of OCLN in zebrafish with caudal fin injury (P < 0.05). In conclusion, from the perspectives of network pharmacology and experimental validation, the findings demonstrate that P. utilis Royle oil possesses notable soothing and reparative effects.
Background Microneedling and PRX PLUS formulations are established strategies for enhancing multidimensional skin quality, yet their combined use has not been systematically investigated. This pilot prospective real-world study evaluated the clinical effectiveness, patient-reported outcomes, and tolerability of a combined microneedling and skin booster protocol. Methods A prospective single-arm pilot study was conducted in an outpatient aesthetic practice, enrolling 15 women with signs of photoaging. All participants received three full-face treatment sessions at 21-day intervals. Assessments at baseline (T0) and 15 days after the final session (T1) included high-resolution imaging (VISIA® and Visioscope) to quantify key skin parameters, the validated FLO-11 questionnaire for patient-reported outcomes, and visual analogue scales for immediate tolerability. Results The combined protocol was associated significant improvements across multiple skin-quality domains. VISIA analyses demonstrated notable reductions in texture irregularities (–26.2%, p=0.001), texture score (–25.8%, p=0.001), UV spots (–9.5%, p=0.027), pigmented spots (–14.1%, p=0.001), and redness (–32.6%, p=0.008). Visioscope findings further confirmed reductions in spots (–41.7%, p=0.001), pore visibility (–17.1%, p=0.001), sebum levels (–40.0%, p=0.005), and wrinkle severity (–12.4%, p=0.006). Patient-reported outcomes indicated improved skin smoothness (p=0.014), a less “stressed” appearance (p=0.015), and greater satisfaction with overall facial aesthetics (p=0.038). Tolerability was favorable, with only mild-to-moderate discomfort and no clinically relevant adverse events. Conclusion This exploratory pilot study suggests that microneedling combined with PRX PLUS may be associated with early, multidimensional improvements in skin quality with favorable tolerability and patient satisfaction. However, given the small sample size and multiple endpoints assessed, all findings should be considered hypothesis-generating.
Zinc oxide (ZnO) nanoparticles are widely used in topical products, including cosmetics and sunscreens, because of their ultraviolet-protective and antibacterial properties. Although ZnO nanoparticles are generally considered to have low toxicity in healthy skin, their safety profile remains uncertain because they can generate reactive oxygen species and induce oxidative stress. Staphylococcus aureus, a common skin commensal, can cause inflammation and barrier dysfunction, contributing to conditions such as atopic dermatitis. Despite the frequent use of ZnO nanoparticles and the ubiquitous presence of S. aureus on the skin, the health effects of their simultaneous exposure remain poorly understood. This study investigated the effects of ZnO nanoparticles on HaCaT keratinocytes when applied alone or in combination with S. aureus, focusing on oxidative stress, barrier integrity, inflammation, and apoptosis. ZnO nanoparticles induced oxidative stress, disrupted barrier integrity, triggered inflammatory responses, and promoted apoptosis associated with mitochondrial dysfunction. Co-exposure to ZnO nanoparticles and S. aureus further intensified these effects. Additional analyses revealed that activation of the mitogen-activated protein kinase pathway contributed to this enhanced response. These findings indicate that the biological impact of ZnO nanoparticles differs in the presence of skin microbiota compared with exposure alone. This study provides a revised perspective for evaluating the health risks of ZnO-based formulations and offers mechanistic insights useful for designing therapeutic strategies targeting S. aureus–associated skin disorders.
The skin–brain axis plays a key role in connecting dermatological health, mental health, and the gut microbiota. This study investigated the associations between anxiety, depression, stress, dermatology-related quality of life (DLQI), and probiotic intake in 305 Brazilian adults. Women presented higher scores for anxiety (13.0 ± 10.5 vs. 7.7 ± 8.1, p < 0.001), depression (15.9 ± 12.3 vs. 10.6 ± 10.8, p < 0.001), and stress (20.0 ± 11.5 vs. 13.4 ± 9.8, p < 0.001). Nearly half of the participants reported dermatological disorders, and more than half were at risk for at least one mental health condition. Strong correlations were observed among mental health outcomes (anxiety–depression r = 0.770, anxiety–stress r = 0.834, depression–stress r = 0.806; all p < 0.001), while DLQI showed weak but significant correlations with these scores. Associations between probiotic intake and anxiety, depression, and stress were inconclusive (p > 0.05), likely due to low intake levels. Multiple linear regression showed that stress and depression were independent predictors of anxiety, with a final model of R² = 0.66 and p < 0.01. The findings highlight the bidirectional nature of the skin–brain axis and the greater burden of psychological and dermatological symptoms in women. Further studies that incorporate culturally relevant dietary patterns and longitudinal designs are needed to clarify these interactions.
Objective This review summarizes the current types of stimuli relevant to human skin, the clinical test methods for evaluating soothing efficacy, and classifies indicators based on the mechanisms of soothing products against different irritant types, thereby providing a reference for the efficacy assessment of soothing products. Methods: Corresponding evaluation methods and indicators were selected based on the mechanisms of soothing efficacy, a systematic review of skin irritation types and their corresponding soothing evaluation metrics were followed by. Results: Various skin irritation types were summarized, including sensitive skin, slight mechanical damage, ultraviolet (UV) exposure, seasonal and temperature changes, acne or inflammatory skin diseases, intensive beauty procedures and medical treatment, occupational exposure, mosquito bites, etc. For these types of stimulation, corresponding recommendations for selecting soothing efficacy evaluation indicators were proposed. Conclusion: To enhance testing efficiency and result reliability, the selection of evaluation methods and indicators for soothing efficacy should be rationally based on the product's mechanism of action. This study provides a reference for the efficacy evaluation of soothing products.
Background Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to various aging manifestation. Defining facial aging is especially important for the selection of anti-aging products. Objectives This study aimed to evaluate the relationship between the severity of aging features along with chronological age and perceived age, and to develop a method of determining perceived age by non-expert assessors. Materials and Methods A total of 308 Chinese females aged 15-65 years underwent expert aging features scoring, facial image acquisition and age perception on acquired photographs. The facial characteristics and facial areas that influenced the age perception were collected by questionnaire. Subjects were grouped based on the deviation between their perceived and chronological age, and the facial aging features were compared among these groups. Results The perceived age of Chinese women was on average 1.6 years greater than their chronological age. The severities of aging features demonstrated strong correlations with perceived age, paralleling their correlations with chronological age. Nasolabial fold, marionette fold, tightness of facial contour, poor skin evenness and poor skin radiance were common key factors for age perception. Additionally, various aging features demonstrated predominant uniqueness among different age ranges. Conclusions Perceived age tends to exceed chronological age. The age perception is correlated to the manifestation of aging features. The method developed in this study to determine perceived age is applicable for evaluating the benefits of anti-aging products and provide valuable information when targeting on specific aging features.
The cosmetic industry is experiencing a shift from traditional beautification to multifunctional products that combine aesthetics with scientifically validated skin health benefits. Among these advancements, nanotechnology enables improved penetration, stability and targeted delivery of active ingredients, but introduces new challenges for quality, safety and regulatory compliance. Within the European Union, these products fall under the scope of European Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council, which sets specific requirements for cosmetics containing nanomaterials. 1 The increased complexity and potential safety concerns of these products highlight the relevance of applying Quality by Design (QbD) principles to ensure robust formulation development, process control and regulatory alignment. However, in the healthcare products sector, QbD was officially proposed only for drug development. 2 Therefore, this systematic review, of 52 original articles selected based on predefined inclusion and exclusion criteria, focusing on studies addressing QbD principles, nanotechnology, and cosmetic applications while excluding reviews, toxicology, analytical-only, or marketing-oriented studies, aimed to analyse the current and potential application of the QbD approach in nanotechnology-based cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Potential Critical Quality Attributes (CQA), Critical Material Attributes (CMA) and Critical Process Parameters (CPP) are identified across the product lifecycle. A certain emphasis is given to the role of Design of Experiments (DoE) in optimizing multifactorial interactions and to the underexplored integration of advanced process control strategies, such as Process Analytical Technology (PAT), Continuous Manufacturing (CM) and Real-Time Release Testing (RTRT), into nanocosmetic development. The analysis reveals that Particle size was the most identified CQA, found in 94.2% of the articles (n=49), followed by Polydispersity Index (PDI) in 76.9% (n=40) and Zeta potential in 75% (n=39) of the analysed sample of articles. Regarding CMAs, surfactant concentration and/or type was the most prevalent, reported in 46.1% (n=24), while for CPPs, the most frequent was sonication time, identified in 15.4% (n=8) of the articles. The results analysis further concluded that while QbD adoption in this field is still developing, its systematic application, combined with emerging manufacturing technologies, can connect the gap between laboratory-scale innovation and industrial-scale production, ultimately enabling safer, more effective and consumer-driven nanocosmetic products.
