Chitin nanofibrils (CN) and NanoLignin(NL) are natural polymers used from our research group for realizing complexes able to incapsulate selected active ingredients.The obtained original capsules designed as CN-NL and activated by the ingredients, have been embedded into specialized tissues that,made by natural biodegradable polymers ,have been used as novel vehicles(carrier-tissues).These novel tissue-Carriers,embedded by the encapsulated active ingredients have been used for realizing innovative pro-aging cosme-Nutraceuticals.The paper after a short Introduction on the problems regarding the skin aging phenomena,will report some data on Chitin and Lignin focusing the attention on the capacity they might have to ameliorate the skin’health and beauty of aged skin,when embedded into specialized fabrics(tissues) used as activated effective cosme-nutraceuticals.
The probable synthesis of Hyaluronic acid made by Chitin saccharide units is explained and reported together with the use of the Chitin polymer to make a novel tissue-vehicle (tissue-carrier) used to realize innovative cosme-nutraceuticalsThese novel products have been characterized for their effectiveness and safety,as reported from some examples.
In the 18th Century the “Spetiale” was a pharmacist who, having a chemical/medical culture, was able to make and distribute herbs, natural potions and drugs to be used in different diseases. As written into an ancient book (“Compendio”) of Fr. Domenico Auda, Head Department of the St Spirito hospital in Rome (“CapoSpeciale nell Archiospedale di San Spirito in Roma”), the condition necessary at that time to practice the Art of Speciaria were: to will, be able and know (“volere, potere e sapere”) (Figure 1) [1,2].
The skin serves as the body first protecting barrier against the external attacks of chemicals and microorganisms. On the other hand, it is an obstacle to penetration and transdermal delivery of any substance applied on its surface. Thus, a need to report some news on the skin composition for a better understanding of the transdermal delivery mechanisms of topical products applied on its surface. Therefore, due to the actual increased use of topical drugs, cosmetics, and diet supplement treatments, further feasibility research studies have been carried out to extend the knowledge of the percutaneous absorption ‘rules and means. These studies are retained necessary to control the release through the skin layers of various selected active ingredients, loaded and carried out by different vehicles. The paper will focus on the effectiveness of innovative tissue carriers that, are able to deliver active ingredients throughout the skin layers, are made by a very low consumption of water, and are free of chemicals also. In conclusion, these novel eco-sustainable carriers, resulting skin- and environmentally friendly, might be used as innovative vehicles in substitution of the normal emulsions that, made by the use of preservatives, emulsifiers, fragrances, and other chemicals may often cause allergic and/or sensitization phenomena, consuming a great quantity of water also.
The present review was conducted to investigate the possibilities in realizing novel nanostructured tissues containing functional molecules that can be commercialized as solid products (without using emulsifiers and preservatives) for cosmeceutical and nutraceutical applications. After considering the principal concepts regarding skin and mucous features and physiologies, the possibilities in using bio-based, biodegradable and biocompatible materials was explored by investigating the correlations between their structures and morphologies with respect to the characteristics of the skin extracellular matrix (ECM). Regarding the new smart type of biodegradable tissues, their possible composition was reviewed in relation to the skin aging process and to the current contest for novel, innovative cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals that consider the “beauty from within” concept. The barriers to the development of these new tissues were mainly identified due the necessity in defining the claim regarding green products. Moreover, the market growth data regarding these novel products were highlighted to support the idea that the diffusion of smart tissue-based cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals is an opportunity for new sustainable industrial chains in the development of bioeconomies.
Plastic waste and microplastics are invading lands and oceans, creating problems for animals, human health and the environment. Packaging, building and construction, textiles and cosmetic sectors are the main industries that utilize these non biodegradable materials. Thus, there is a necessity to find a new way of producing and consuming skin- and eco-compatible’ goods. For this purpose, it’s important to remember that the cosmetic and diet supplement markets are continually increasing, due also to the introduction of “Beauty from within,” based on the contemporary consumption of cosmeceuticals applied to the skin and nutraceuticals taken by oral route. Moreover, both of these products are made by emulsions or solutions based on a great consumption of water with the use of carriers rich in chemicals, which often cause allergy and sensitization problems. Thus, the proposed solution to use smart tissue-carriers, which are embedded with natural ingredients, and is based on the use of raw materials and biopolymers obtained from food and agro-forestry waste. These new carriers, with a structure similar to the Extra Cellular Matrix, may be used to realize smart cosme-nutraceuticals useful to reduce water consumption, producing innovative products free of emulsifiers, preservatives, colors, fragrances and other chemicals. So, it will possible to save the human health and the environment by maintaining natural raw materials and the biodiversity of the earth for the future generations.
Beauty and personal care became a significant part of the global economy for two reasons: (1) The elderly growing in the global population and (2) the desire of women and men to appear younger and more attractive. Thus, both young and old people are looking for revolutionary nutritional eco-cosmetics (combined use of cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals) manufactured by natural active ingredients, using biopolymers as substrates, and made by innovative and sustainable technologies. Consequently, the market of both cosmetics and diet supplements is continually growing together with the request of natural active ingredients, including bio-peptides and biological macromolecules such as chitin and lignin. Therefore, both consumers and industry need to recover innovative active ingredients and carriers (vehicles), naturally derived and supported by advanced methods for controlling their effectiveness and safeness on skin and mucous membrane layers. The use of selected bio-ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and bio-mimetic peptides, obtained by advanced, innovative and sustainable bio nanotechnologies, will be of interest to develop smart cosmeceutical and nutraceutical formulations. Innovation is considered the key business strategy to drive sustainable economic growth. For trying to reduce waste and produce sustainable, biodegradable and innovative products, the realization of new non-woven tissues, used as carriers for making innovative cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals was considered. Both carriers and active ingredients have been obtained from food waste to reduce loss and pollution. This review will report a brief description of the skin functions, trying also to focus and discuss some of the active ingredients and carriers used in nutritional eco-cosmetics to clarify the supposed mechanism of action, effectiveness and safeness of both active ingredients and carriers, as well as the supposed activity of beauty and personal care products.
This chapter provides a summary of the current knowledge concerning the design, synthesis, and production of some innovative classes of nanoparticles and nanofibers, highlighting their potential use as ingredient carriers able to efficiently penetrate through the different skin layers. To this aim, the main characteristics and functions of the skin structure are described, as well as the possible mechanisms of skin penetration, outlining some disadvantages of current cosmetic emulsions. The novel carriers are made of non-woven tissues based on biodegradable nano-biopolymers and loaded with natural active ingredients, which are released at the level of the different skin layers, at the desired dose and time. By these smart tissues, it is possible to make innovative cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals which, free of water, preservatives, emulsifiers, fragrances, colors, and other chemicals, are obtained from food and agro-forestry waste. By this new technology, able to provide carriers having the same structure as the natural extra cellular matrix (ECM), it will be possible to produce skin- and environmentally friendly products, reducing the consumption of water and natural resources, thus contributing to both human and environmental health.
More sustainable and smart cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals are necessary due to the ecological transition. In this study, a pullulan-based water solution containing chitin nanofibril–nano-lignin (CN-LG) complexes that encapsulate fish collagen polypeptide, allantoin and nicotinamide was electrospun onto a nonwoven substrate made of bamboo fibers to obtain a smart nanostructured bilayer system for releasing active molecules onto the skin or other body tissues. Infrared spectroscopy was used to characterize the composition of the bilayer system before and after rapid washing of the sample with distilled water and liquids mimicking physiological fluids. The viability of keratinocytes was studied as well as the antioxidant activity, protective activity towards UV light, metalloproteinase release of aged fibroblasts and the inhibitor activity against collagen degradation. Immunomodulatory tests were performed to investigate the anti-inflammatory activity of the bilayer system as well as its indirect antimicrobial activity. The results indicate that the bilayer system can be used in the production of innovative sustainable cosmeceuticals. In general, the adopted strategy can be extended to several smart treatments for fast release that can be commercialized as solid products, thus avoiding the use of preservatives and water.
Cancer is the second leading cause of death in the world behind cardiovascular disease. It is considered to be the cause of one out of every six deaths worldwide. If cancer is diagnosed and treated early, fatality rates can be lowered. Nanotechnology is a fantastic science that can not only improve cancer diagnostics but also provide detection strategies with greater reliability, susceptibility, and specificity. Development of optical-based functional nanoparticles, such as quantum dots (QDs), is an emerging area of nanotechnology. QDs are semiconductor nanocrystals that emit fluorescence on excitation with a light source. QDs have excellent photophysical properties such as their excitation spectrum width can be adjusted continuously; large Stokes shifts of QDs allow multicolor detection with a single wavelength–excitation source; they are resistant to photobleaching; high sensitivity, strong fluorescence, and stability. The design and development of QDs has advanced considerably in cancer diagnosis and therapy due to versatile and unique characteristics. This chapter provides readers with knowledge-based information that may assist them in learning more about the potential of QDs nanotechnology for the diagnosis and treatment of cancer.
The present review considers the design and introduction of new cosmeceuticals in the market, based on natural polymers and active molecules extracted from biomass, in a biomimetic strategy, starting with a consideration of the biochemical mechanisms, followed by natural precision biopolymer production. After introducing the contest of nanobiotechnology in relationship with its applicability for skin contact products and classifying the currently available sustainable polymers, some widely selected abundant biopolymers (chitin, chitosan, and lignin), showing specific functionalities (anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.), are described, especially considering the possibility to combine them in nanostructured tissues, powders, and coatings for producing new cosmeceuticals, but with potentialities in other sectors, such as biomedical, personal care, and packaging sectors. After observing the general increase in market wellness and beauty forecasts over the next few years, parallelisms between nano and macro scales have suggested that nanobiotechnology application expresses the necessity to follow a better way of producing, selecting, and consuming goods that will help to transform the actual linear economy in a circular economy, based on redesigning, reducing, recycling, and reusing.
Beauty industry produces each year about 120 billion of packaging units, 60% of which are made by plastic materials, invading the oceans as waste microparticles, toxic for animals and humans.
Bioactive biodegradable chitosan films containing chitin nanofibrils have been developed for use as face masks in cosmetology. It was found that thermal modification of chitosan films promotes the transformation of the polymer into insoluble form without the use of alkali or aldehydes. The structure and properties of the films were studied by IT spectroscopy, atomic force microscopy, thermogravimetric analysis, and X-ray structural analysis. Analysis of infrared (IR) spectra showed that the addition of nanofibrils accelerates the process of thermal transformation in the composite films. This is apparent from the observed increase in the intensity ratio of 1030 cm−1\1580 cm−1 peaks in the spectrum of the thermally treated film (as compared to the spectrum of the initial sample and the spectrum of a chitosan film without chitin nanofibrils). The prepared composite films containing chitin nanofibrils possess improved mechanical characteristics: tensile strength 99 MPa and tensile strain 14%. The tetrazolium bromide (MTT) test revealed good viability of human dermal fibroblasts cultivated in the presence of the conditioned medium obtained after incubation of all types of films in the nutrient medium. The used process of thermal modification of chitosan and composite films (which is efficient and environmentally safe) allows one to prepare bioactive materials for applications in medicine and cosmetology.
As a physiological regulator, the skin plays a major role in the general metabolism of water in the body. Therefore the moisture level of the stratum corneum is crucial to keep the cutaneous surface supple and healthy. Lipids can be found in the cellular membrane and the interstices; they change dramatically in quality and quantity as soon as epidermal cells leave the basal layer to turn gradually into desquamating cells. Qualitative and quantitative changes in the composition of both the surface lipidic film and natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) components were shown in many skin diseases. These changes bring about a high cutaneous dehydration, often associated with desquamation and chapping. In order to retain and bind water at the skin surface, hygroscopic substances are used. Examples are the active principles of NMF and particularly the sodium salt of 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid—a physiological moisturizer found in various organs, organic fluids, and particularly the epidermis, including the stratum corneum.