This study systematically investigates for the first time the effects of dual-site co-cultivation on spectral characteristics and trace element enrichment in marine-cultured Akoya pearls from Beihai, China. Akoya pearls were cultured over a one-year period, with the final 40-day stage designated as the terminal phase. During this period, two experimental groups of pearl oysters were established: Group Y remained in Beihai for continued local cultivation and harvest, while Group B was transferred to Weihai, Shandong Province, for terminal-stage farming under different thermal conditions. A series of comparative analyses were performed using Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, ultraviolet-visible (UV-Vis) spectroscopy, Raman spectroscopy, X-ray fluorescence (XRF), and laser ablation inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS). The FTIR results revealed distinct differences between the two groups in the distribution of amide and polysaccharide functional groups, particularly around 1643 cm−1 and 1100 cm−1. The UV-Vis spectra of Group B displayed characteristic absorption bands at 430 nm and 460 nm, associated with the organic matrix of the nacre. Raman spectroscopy further indicated a higher abundance of organic-related vibrational features in Group B. Additionally, both XRF and LA-ICP-MS analyses consistently showed significant differences in the concentrations and distributions of trace elements, particularly copper (Cu), cobalt (Co), and zinc (Zn). The findings demonstrate that the dual-site co-cultivation mode significantly impacts both the organic composition and trace element enrichment patterns in seawater Akoya pearls. This research provides valuable references for optimizing environmental parameters in pearl cultivation processes.

With the increasing market demand for spinels of various colors, purple spinel—long regarded as a symbol of nobility—has attracted growing attention. In this study, pinkish-purple to purple spinels from the Mogok region of Myanmar were systematically examined using conventional gemological, spectroscopic, and chemical analytical techniques. Raman analysis reveals that these spinels commonly contain octahedral inclusions composed of calcite, dolomite, magnesite, and graphite. Chemically, the samples are primarily magnesia-alumina spinels. Color variation is influenced by trace elements: increasing Cr and V contents enhance the red hue, while higher Fe concentrations intensify the purple tone. UV–Vis spectra show that Cr3+ and V3+ jointly contribute to absorptions at 388 nm and 548 nm, with Fe2+ and Fe3+ responsible for the bands at 371 nm and 457 nm, respectively, together controlling the pink-to-purple color variation. Most samples display four Cr3+-related peaks near 700 nm; however, these are absent in deeply purple spinels. In contrast, light pink spinels show weaker absorption at 371 nm and 457 nm, attributed to Fe2+ and Fe3+. Fluorescence spectra confirm characteristic Cr3+ emission bands at 673 nm, 684 nm, 696 nm, 706 nm, and 716 nm, indicating a strong crystal field environment. Raman spectra have peaks mainly around 312 cm−1, 406 cm−1, 665 cm−1, and 768 cm−1. The peaks of the infrared spectrum mainly appear around 840 cm−1, 729 cm−1, 587 cm−1, 545 cm−1, and 473 cm−1.

Demantoid is the green variety of andradite [Ca3Fe2(SiO4)3], an exceptionally rare and precious gemstone worldwide. In recent years, a small amount of gem-quality demantoid has been found in Pakistan. This research focuses on nine demantoids sourced from Muslim Bagh, Baluchistan, Pakistan, presenting a comprehensive analysis of the spectral characteristics and inclusions of Pakistani demantoid using classical gemological methods, energy dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) chemical analyses, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, Raman spectroscopy, and ultraviolet and visible (UV-vis) spectroscopy. The results show that the content of Cr and V in most samples is lower than the detection line of EDXRF, with only one sample containing a Cr2O3 content of 0.032%. The extremely low Cr content sets Pakistani demantoid apart from demantoid of the serpentinite type found in other regions. Notably, the UV-vis spectrum reveals characteristic absorption at 443 nm due to Fe3+, while a further contribution from Cr3+ would be highly likely, and weak absorption at 550 nm caused by Fe3+. This suggests that iron (Fe) is the primary chromogenic element of Pakistani demantoid, but the role of Cr3+ cannot be ignored. The FTIR spectrum of Pakistani demantoid displays the absorption peaks associated with [SiO4]4− groups at 937 cm−1, 848 cm−1, and 817 cm−1, while the absorption peaks resulting from trivalent cations appear at 481 cm−1 and 442 cm−1, which are the characteristic FTIR spectra of demantoid. Raman spectroscopy further reveals absorption peaks are displayed near 994 cm−1, 843 cm−1, 818 cm−1, associated with (Si–O)Str vibrations (Si–O stretching vibration), and absorption peaks are displayed near 350 cm−1 and 310 cm−1, related to the rotation of SiO4–R(SiO4)4−, and the peaks near 514 cm−1 and 494 cm−1 are related to (Si–O)bend vibrations (Si–O bending vibration). Additionally, related absorption peaks near 168 cm−1 are attributed to the translation of SiO4–T(SiO4)4−, and absorption peaks near 234 cm−1 are associated with the translation of X2+–T(X2+) (X2+ represents divalent ions). The common dark opaque inclusions found in Pakistani demantoid consist of a combination of magnetite and hematite. Additionally, some samples of Pakistani demantoid display inclusions of calcite. This unique combination of inclusions differentiates Pakistani demantoid from demantoids sourced from other regions. It signifies that Pakistani demantoid has a distinctive geological origin resulting from the interplay of serpentinization and skarnization processes. This geological formation distinguishes it from demantoids solely hosted in serpentinite or skarn environments in other origins. The identification of these characteristics holds significant importance for accurately determining the origin of Pakistani demantoid.

"Lover’s eye" jewelry is a kind of art that combines painting, jewelry, portraits and symbols. It was widely popular in Britain from the 18th century to the early 19th century. Although this kind of jewelry existed for a short time, it played an important role in the history of jewelry. This paper takes the "lover’s eye" jewelry as the research object, and studies the "lover’s eye" jewelry from four aspects: formation background, material characteristics, process characteristics and cultural value. "Lover’s eye" jewelry originated in France and was popular in the 18th century when British economy and technology developed rapidly. The materials of the painting part are mainly ivory, and the materials of the inlaid frame part mainly include metal, all kinds of gemstones, hair and other mementos. The production process generally includes ivory slicing, ivory processing, color painting and inlaying. "Lover’s eye" jewelry creates special visual value from the perspective of symbol and composition. The content of the "lover’s eye" eye jewelry integrates the artist’s emotion and personal experience, and conveys emotional value through "gazing". The unique design thinking of the "lover’s" eye jewelry shows a special way of communication between works and audience, which provides reference for contemporary jewelry design.

宝石学是学科交叉融合的特色学科,经过30多年的发展,取得了辉煌的成就,但也存在隐忧和问题.当前宝石学教学中存在的问题主要为:教学体系中整体偏重于鉴定环节,鉴定教学中又偏重知识点的传授,对方法的教学和创新式教育引导不足;科研与教育、产业结合尚显不足;科研成果发表难度大;教师晋升通道有待通畅等.笔者通过国内外高校的对比调研,认为应适时开展"从矿区原石到市场首饰"的全产业链教学,并分析了必要性.全产业链教学应主要从学科交叉融合、教学内容覆盖全产业链;产教结合,协同发展;实验标本的可靠收集与信息化建设;提升思政教育、服务于行业发展需求等方面进行.

With the continuous all-round development of China, it is more important to "tell Chinese stories and spread Chinese voice" in international communication with art, a common language of mankind. Jewelry design in art is a characteristic graduate major of China University of Geosciences（Beijing）. Its works and achievements are natural "good stories" and "good voices" in international communication. Among them, design is of academic master, and art design is of professional master. The major mainly relies on the industry and market to carry out scientific research and teaching construction, explore the design, culture, materials and technology of traditional and modern jewelry, and the application of modern science and technology, such as intelligent manufacturing, and cultivate Art graduate students who combine theory with practice. As far as the art graduate students of CUGB（Beijing） are concerned, in the past, it was common that they were not good at explaining art ideas in Chinese and foreign languages, especially the lack of accurate translation, oral expression, work description and journal article writing of Chinese unique traditional crafts, which hindered international communication, cooperation and development to a considerable extent. In view of the above situation, the author analyzes the main problems existing in the professional English teaching of the graduate students of this major according to the teaching practice, and makes corresponding exploration on the curriculum construction. The main common and individual problems in the professional English teaching of jewelry design in art graduate students include: the overall level of English is not high and uneven, not paying enough attention to theory, emphasizing creation but neglecting writing, and lack of complete teaching system. The research shows that through the curriculum content reform with a higher degree of professional fit, the combination of online and offline teaching means, covering all-round homework and display system, guiding and discussion teaching and other measures, the learning enthusiasm and all-round foreign language expression ability of jewelry art postgraduates have been improved.

By summarizing the application status of blockchain technology in diamonds, colored gemstones, precious metals, alongside with their origin and digital identification certificates, and digital currency transactions in jewelry, the development trends and challenges are analyzed through it. It is conducive to enhancing consumer trust in the jewelry industry, helping companies identify business opportunities and risks, and increasing people’s confidence in the jewelry industry.

Ethiopia has been gaining attention in recent years as an emerging source of high-quality emerald. Ethiopian emerald samples with different colors ranging from dark green to light green were selected to study the gemological properties, chemical composition, and spectral characteristics. The Ethiopian emeralds were examined using conventional gemological instruments, including X-ray fluorescence spectrometry, LA-ICP-MS, UV/Vis/NIR, infrared spectrometry, and Raman spectrometry, providing a wealth of data and research information related to Ethiopian emeralds. The EDXRF results show that the chemical composition of Ethiopian emeralds is distinctly regional compared to emeralds of Colombian origin, being low in Cr, low in V, and high in Fe. LA-ICP-MS results demonstrate consistent results for Cr (734.34 to 1644.3 ppmw), V (89.61 to 106.61 ppmw), and Fe (4468.04 to 5022.3 ppmw) based on the chemical composition analysis by EDXRF. In addition, the LA-ICP-MS assay revealed that the combination of alkali metals (Li, Na, K, Rb, and Cs) and some trace elements (Sc, V, Cr, and Fe) could distinguish the Ethiopian emeralds from those from other regions. The Ethiopian emerald had absorption of Fe2+, Cr3+, V3+, and Fe3+, and the typical absorption intensity of Fe2+ (around 850 nm) was higher than that of Fe3+ (around 371 nm) in the UV/Vis/NIR spectra. The infrared spectrum of samples indicated that the absorption of type II H2O was higher than type I H2O in the emeralds from Ethiopia, which is consistent with the high content of alkali metals detected by LA-ICP-MS that would lead to an increase in the content of type II H2O. The Raman spectra showed absorption at 410 cm−1, 569 cm−1, 687 cm−1, 995 cm−1, and 1067 cm−1, with an emerald species recognition pattern. The gas–liquid two-phase inclusions of the emerald in this area were mainly CO2 and H2O, and the samples contained typical dark inclusions of magnesium-rich biotite sheets that revealed the tectonic-magmatic-related geological environment in this region.

The Bian Fang is a characteristic Manchu headdress of the Qing Dynasty, which arose in the process of the continuous evolution of women’s hairstyles after the Qing Dynasty entered China. The development of the Bian Fang reflects the ideology and cultural life of the people of the particular era in which it was worn, and has a rich cultural connotation. It also represents the aesthetic style of Qing dynasty craftsmen, and the aesthetic value of its patterns has some significance for modern design. At present, academic research on Bian Fang is relatively superficial, and there is a lack of summative research on the subject. In this paper, the basic form and main decorative patterns of Manchu Bian Fang in the Qing dynasty are sorted out and summarised using example analysis, and the cultural connotations and aesthetic values behind Manchu Bian Fang in the Qing dynasty are analysed. It aims to enrich the theoretical study of Chinese traditional jewellery and promote the continued transmission of traditional jewellery in modern culture.

蜻蜓眼琉璃珠是古代社会广为应用且风格鲜明的装饰物件,自东、西周时期从西亚地区传入,于战国时期发展至巅峰,并在此期间形成了具有中华文化风貌及时代特征的独有艺术风格.本文以战国时期出土的各式蜻蜓眼琉璃珠为研究对象,结合时代背景及文化特色,分析其在功能、内涵、视觉审美等方面的流变.研究发现,战国时期的蜻蜓眼琉璃珠在中华文化大环境的影响之下视觉审美、使用功能、文化寓意等方面均产生了一定程度的变化,成为战国时期蕴含礼制规则、文化交流的特色符号,又蕴含当时时代背景下所特有的审美倾向.本文根据研究结果为现代首饰设计提出了一定思路与设想.

For a long time, the disorderly and indiscriminate mining of precious gemstones’ deposits around the world has caused a series of problems of resources, environment, public security, taxation,and so on. The mining and operation model adopted by the ruby mines in the Montepuez district of Mozambique has successfully solved these problems. This paper provides inspiration for the similar economic minerals exploitation by studying the advantages and disadvantages of its mining model. The research shows that the Mozambican government cooperates with Montepuez Ruby Mining Limitada, a large mining company, through a market-based and governmentsupervised cooperation model. As the primary responsible party, the enterprise shared responsibilities with the government, including environmental issues, responsibility for the rights and interests of miners and farmers, and ensured the sustainable development of resources in ruby mining areas. In addition, through transparent auctions,cooperation with appraisal laboratories and jewelry design brands, etc., MRM enhanced consumers’ recognition and popularity of Mozambique rubies, and increased enterprises’ income, government tax revenue and the potential of sustainable resources. However, there are still drawbacks such as trust, policies and consumer rights among enterprises, governments and local people. This kind of mining mode has certain reference significance to the sustainable development of economic minerals in China.

千百年来,尖晶石一直作为红宝石的替代品而被忽视和低估.近年来,尖晶石获得了国际珠宝市场的关注,在拍卖和珠宝交易市场上的价格都屡创新高.本文通过收集尖晶石全球资源的资料与样品,以及2011～2020年佳士得、苏富比、菲利普斯、保利和嘉德五家世界拍卖行的尖晶石拍卖成交数据,与珠宝交易市场的价格进行对比分析,对尖晶石的资源与市场进行了研究.研究表明,尖晶石产地主要有缅甸、坦桑尼亚、阿富汗、越南、斯里兰卡和马达加斯加等,其中缅甸尖晶石的数量和质量都远高于其他产地.2011～2020十年间,拍卖的尖晶石主要产自缅甸,拍卖尖晶石的产地数据与过去十年高价值尖晶石的产出基本吻合;成交量和成交总额均呈上涨趋势,2019年拍卖总价达到1061.24万美金.历年尖晶石拍卖成交的平均克拉单价虽不稳定,但大体成上涨趋势,到2018年达到每克拉4.38万美金的峰值,在2019年有一定回落,但仍高于2011～2017年,表明尖晶石的价格在逐步攀升,其中颜色是影响尖晶石价格的最主要因素,目前克拉单价最高的为粉红―红色系列.

The price of spinel has sharply risen in recent years, and its market acceptance is extending. Among the many sources of spinel, Man Sin in Myanmar is the most famous for its bright neon pinkish red to reddish pink color, named “Jedi” spinel commercially. In this paper, spinel samples with the bright neon pinkish red to reddish pink from Man Sin in Myanmar were studied non-destructively with X-ray fluorescence spectrometer (EDXRF), Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (FTIR), fluorescence spectroscopy, a UV-Vis spectrophotometer and Raman spectroscopy. The results show that the samples from Man Sin in Myanmar are the magnesia-alumina spinels. The high content of the red-chromogenic element Cr, an intermediate content of V and Zn, and a low content of the chromogenic element Fe may be responsible for the distinctive neon color of the spinel samples. The presence of Ti may also serve as a basis for the identification of its origin in Man Sin in Myanmar. The fluorescence spectrum analysis of spinels shows them to have multiple excitation peaks in the region 600–800 nm, which are caused by the jump of Cr3+ between the 2E→4A2 inter-energy band lattice. The amount of Zn affects the fluorescence spectrum intensity of spinels. The higher the Zn content, the stronger the fluorescence intensity. The spinel structure is uncomplicated and four more obvious absorption peaks appear in the IR spectrum, and the direction of the absorption peaks is shifted if a homogeneous substitution of the AB2O4 structure occurs; the Raman spectra of spinel samples have four vibrational peaks at 100–2000 cm−1, 310 cm−1, 407 cm−1, 665 cm−1 and 763 cm−1, which has spinel species-identification significance.

中式无形元素作为中华民族文化独有的内在特质和外在特征,在首饰内涵被不断丰富和发展的今天,正在以"养分"的姿态进入到首饰设计中.风景意境元素是中华民族发展的静态"见证者",神话故事元素则是中华民族发展的动态"记录者".本文以景色意境和神话故事为例,从理论和实践创作两方面,探索实际运用下中式无形元素的首饰设计思路.在首饰设计中,中式无形元素的表达应考虑元素的提取和合理运用、材料与形式之间的互助运用,并成为互相的点睛之笔;多角度考虑叙事表达中的分工设计,延伸思考无形元素中的故事和所传达的观念与当下社会的新碰撞;考虑将一静一动的角色进行融合设计,风景意境元素可以为神话故事元素提供更加丰满的故事背景,神话故事元素则可以使风景意境的表现更加活灵活现.在材料的选择、形式的变化、意境的呈现、故事的叙述中发现中式无形元素在首饰有形化设计中的更多可能,同时也更好地促进中式无形元素的传承与发展.

合成钻石,在商业上也被称为培育钻石,随着合成技术的发展,合成钻石开始作为独立的宝石级原材料进入珠宝首饰市场,各类知名珠宝品牌也相继开始进行合成钻石首饰的设计.我国是合成钻石的最大生产国,对合成钻石首饰设计现状和发展趋势的研究具有经济和现实意义.研究表明,合成钻石在首饰中的应用是随其合成技术的进步、大众接受度的提高以及成本的降低而发展的,在历史上可将其分为钻石仿制品、首饰配石和独立首饰三个时期.当前,合成钻石首饰多出现于各大时尚珠宝品牌,主要利用钻石特有的亮度和火彩等光学特征以及优异的力学特征,设计中更强调合成钻石的切工创新、色彩鲜艳、成本与售价更具竞争力以及设计造型的灵动与风格的多元化的等.未来合成钻石首饰的发展将会着眼于年轻化、时尚化的首饰市场,打破传统钻石首饰设计风格,在设计过程中注入更多时尚感和当代首饰的设计理念,与时装搭配.合成钻石首饰将会成为人们日常生活中佩戴的装饰和点缀.

经过30多年的发展,日本珠宝展会已经成为亚洲地区甚至世界范围内重要的珠宝首饰展会,成为展示日本珠宝文化的重要窗口.近年来,日本珠宝展会呈现出独具特色的风格,尤其在首饰设计领域更加突出.根据笔者近年连续多次参加日本珠宝展会的经验和相关资料,本文就近年来日本珠宝展会的首饰特色作详细地分析.

Perovskites are emerging as a new research frontier for oxygen evolution reaction (OER), however, their activity and durability are still far from desirable. Herein, we highlight a facile approach to boosting the perovskite electrocatalysis for OER by the coupling of carbon quantum dots (CQDs). The as-prepared CQDs decorated Ba0.5Sr0.5Co0.8Fe0.2O3-delta-perovskite nanofibers (CQDs@BSCF-NFs) catalyst achieves a low overpotential of 0.35 V at 10 mA cm(-2), favorably outperforming the individual BSCF-NFs and the commercial IrO2. The CQDs@BSCF-NFs catalyst demonstrates an outstanding current density of 140.8 mA cm(-2) at a potential of 1.65 V vs. RHE, which is (similar to)5 and 19 times higher than that of BSCF-NFs and IrO2. This significantly enhanced activity is attributed to the enlarged specific surface area, the increased surface oxygen vacancies as well as the synergy between CQDs and BSCF. Moreover, the CQDs@BSCF-NFs catalyst also exhibits a high electrocatalytic stability for 10 h operation.

硅硼镁铝石是一种极其稀少的宝石,近年来只在马达加斯加发现了宝石级品质.为研究其宝石学特征并为鉴定提供依据,对8块马达加斯加硅硼镁铝石样品进行了常规宝石学测试,以及X射线荧光光谱、红外光谱、拉曼光谱等大型仪器的测试分析.结果 表明,硅硼镁铝石样品的颜色为蓝绿色到绿蓝色,抛光面呈玻璃光泽,折射率为1.578～1.619,双折射率约为0.041,且具有明显的蓝绿色/深绿色/无色三色性.硅硼镁铝石的颜色可能与其含有的Fe元素有关,且Fe质量分数越高,颜色越浓郁.硅硼镁铝石样品具有特征的红外光谱以及拉曼光谱,这与其结构中的硼氧三角形(BO3)、硅氧四面体(SiO4)、扭曲的三角双锥(AlO5、MgO5和FeO5)以及八面体(A1O6)有关:红外光谱中,最为特征的硼氧三角形(BO3)的振动位于1 300～1 500cm-1,而位于800～1 100 cm1处的吸收峰与硅氧骨干有关;拉曼光谱中特征的硼氧三角形(BO3)振动反映在800～1 100 cm-1区间.红外光谱以及拉曼光谱测试可作为其鉴定依据.

Nano composite of Ruddlesden-Popper electrocatalyst-oxygen ionic conductor, (Pr0.9La0.1)2(Ni0.74Cu0.21Nb0.05)O4+δ (PLNCN)-Ce0.9Gd0.1O2−δ (GDC), is developed as composite cathode for intermediate temperature solid oxide fuel cells (IT-SOFCs) via a infiltration way. The electrochemical behavior of PLNCN-GDC nanostructured electrode is assessed with respect to infiltration loading and oxygen partial pressure. The optimized PLNCN loading can improve charge transfer dynamics for electrochemical oxygen reduction reaction, thus promoting cathode performance. Importantly, the encouraging results of single cell highlight high activity and good CO2 tolerance of PLNCN-GDC nanostructured cathode.

Electrochemical oxygen evolution reaction is an appealing way to alleviate energy and environmental crisis. Perovskite oxides are supposed as attractive low-cost alternative electrocatalysts for oxygen evolution reaction relative to the IrO2 and RuO2 electrocatalysts. In this study, Fe-Ni coupled perovskite oxides, Pr0.5Ba0.5Fe1-xNixO3-δ, are proposed as novel electrocatalysts for oxygen evolution reaction in alkaline solution. The electrocatalytic activity of perovskites are optimized by engineering the couple of Fe-Ni cations. We identify a possible correlation between the enhancement in the activity and the amount of surface oxygen vacancies, OH− adsorption, charge transfer kinetics as well as eg-filling. The Pr0.5Ba0.5Fe0.975Ni0.025O3-δ electrocatalyst demonstrates excellent activity for oxygen evolution reaction, favorably compared to other the state-of-the-art perovskite electrocatalysts. The encouraging results indicate that Pr0.5Ba0.5Fe1-xNixO3-δ series is a promising class of electrocatalysts for practical application of oxygen evolution reaction.