AimThis study aimed to: (a) assess the relationships between climbing performance and finger and shoulder girdle muscle endurance; and (b) provide evidence on the validity of the specialized exercise tests used for the purpose.Materials and methods28 male sport climbers (climbing ability 23 ± 2.43 IRCRA scale) performed four tests muscle failure, including two-finger hang tests (using 2.5 and 4 cm holds) and two variants of pull-up exercises (classical pull-ups and a combination of dynamic and isometric actions – the so-called Edlinger). Climbing performance and test results were subjected to correlation, taxonomic and regression analysis.ResultsThe correlations between the results from all tests and climbing performance were notably strong (r between 0.54 and 0.61) and statistically significant (p<0.05). The taxonomic analysis indicated that the two variants of each test type reflect two different latent variables 2.5 cm and 4 cm finger hang durations were highly correlated (r=0.76,p<0.01). A similar correlation was found between the results from the pull-up tests (r=0.72,p<0.01). Thus, the finger hang and pull-up test results were determined to a high extent (43% and 49%, respectively) by factors that cannot be assessed when only one test of each type is used. The regression model of the two-finger tests allowed individual endurance profiles to be assessed.ConclusionsThe muscular endurance of the elbow flexors and shoulder girdle muscles predicts climbing performance within the specific sport level studied to a comparable degree as finger flexor endurance.The use of two variants of a test intended to assess one physical ability provided important details on a climber’s fitness.

The relative importance of key performance factors is poorly studied in high-level climbers. This study aimed to (1) determine the role of forearm muscle strength and endurance in high-level rock climbing, (2) and provide suitable dynamometric test parameters for muscle endurance assessment in high-level climbers. Six higher elite (redpoint Fr.9a) and eight elite/advanced (redpoint Fr.8a+) climbers performed one finger flexor maximal strength test and three finger endurance tests: a 30 s all-out test and a continuous and intermittent test at 60% of maximal voluntary contraction. Higher elite climbers had higher (p < 0.05) maximal strength, all-out test average force and continuous test force-time integral (all relative to body mass) than the elite/advanced climbers. These parameters correlated significantly (p < 0.05) with climbing performance, which has not been observed so far for continuous test scores. Unlike in previous research, intermittent test force-time integral neither distinguished climbing ability groups nor correlated significantly with climbing performance. Nevertheless, regression models comprising of intermittent and maximal strength test scores more strongly determined climbing performance than models including continuous or all-out test scores. Intermittent muscle endurance is among the performance factors in difficult rock climbing but appears to be less important than maintaining high forces during sustained muscle contractions.

The continuously developing project aims to build an informatics system enabling analysis of spatial and temporal parameters of movement activities occurring in the sport of speed climbing. The monitoring system (climbing information speed system – CISS) is to be used for conducting comprehensive scientific research in the field of speed climbing. The system enables the evaluation of the training process of climbers at various levels of competition. The study analysis was based on video. The video recording with a camera positioned at a short distance (10 m) from the wall. The marker was positioned closest to the centre of mass (gravity) BMC. Results: development of a system for data collection and analysis of the climbing run based on video recording (application of the Kanade-Lucas-Tomasi (KLT) algorithm). Our results showed that used devices can measure a wide range of specific internal and external variables during speed climbing. Some of the analyzed parameters were significantly correlated with speed climbing time. These results could be a theoretical basis for future research and for training program’s preparation.

Purpose The aim of the study was to evaluate distinct performance indicators and energy system contributions in 3 different, new sport-specific finger flexor muscle exercise tests. Methods The tests included the maximal strength test, the all-out test (30 s) as well as the continuous and intermittent muscle endurance test at an intensity equaling 60% of maximal force, which were performed until target force could not be maintained. Gas exchange and blood lactate were measured in 13 experienced climbers during, as well as pre and post the test. The energy contribution (anaerobic alactic, anaerobic lactic, and aerobic) was determined for each test. Results The contribution of aerobic metabolism was highest during the intermittent test (59.9 ± 12.0%). During continuous exercise, this was 28.1 ± 15.6%, and in the all-out test, this was 19.4 ± 8.1%. The contribution of anaerobic alactic energy was 27.2 ± 10.0% (intermittent), 54.2 ± 18.3% (continuous), and 62.4 ± 11.3% (all-out), while anaerobic lactic contribution equaled 12.9 ± 6.4, 17.7 ± 8.9, and 18.2 ± 9.9%, respectively. Conclusion The combined analysis of performance predictors and metabolic profiles of the climbing test battery indicated that not only maximal grip force, but also all-out isometric contractions are equally decisive physical performance indices of climbing performance. Maximal grip force reflects maximal anaerobic power, while all-out average force and force time integral of constant isometric contraction at 60% of maximal force are functional measures of anaerobic capacity. Aerobic energy demand for the intermittent exercise is dominated aerobic re-phosphorylation of high-energy phosphates. The force-time integral from the intermittent test was not decisive for climbing performance.

The objective of the study was to verify the relationships between sport skill levels and to identify the tests that accurately diagnose flexibility of sport climbers. This study examined 60 competitive advanced-higher elite male 7b-9a redpoint (RP) climbers. The athletes performed commonly used flexibility tests (stand-and-reach, straddle sit, straddle stand) and climbing-specific flexibility tests. Significant correlations were found between sport skill levels for the straddle stand test (r = -0.48) and the straddle sit test (r = -0.41). No significant correlations were observed between climbing-specific flexibility tests and sports skill level of climbers. Hip abduction evaluated using the straddle sit and straddle stand tests were significantly correlated with sports skill level and thus can be approached as a tool to diagnose flexibility of climbers. Flexibility is very specific and difficult to diagnose in climbing, but it should be developed.

Aim: the aim of this publication was to establish the importance of body build, strength and endurance abilities in achieving high results by climbers at higher elite/elite rock-climbing levels. Method: The study comprised 15 climbers with elite [n = 9] and higher elite [n = 6] training. The age of elite climbers was at an average of 33 years with SD = 8.2 years, and higher elite was, on average, x_ = 25.6 years, with SD = 7.6 years. The climbing efficiency was determined by the best RP and OS rock-climbing result in the last year. Selected somatic features were measured: body height, body mass, adipose tissue, upper limb length, circumferences of the forearm, arm, thigh and shank. Moreover, the following indices were calculated: Rohrer, slenderness and upper limb length. Finger strength was evaluated in the Grip-open 1 test. The absolute strength values were expressed per kg of body mass in the Grip-open 2 test. Fatigue resistance was measured in isometric contraction of the forearm muscles on a 2.5-cm hold - Hang 1, and 4-cm hold - Hang 2, while arm strength was assessed using the pull-up test. Results: Higher levels of the upper limb length index was noted among climbers at the highest rock-climbing compared to the elite group. Moreover, in all of the conducted motor tests, higher elite climbers scored better than those elite. In these trials, high correlation coefficients were reported between the results of motor tests and the results of RP and OS. RP - Grip-open 2 = 0.71, OS - Grip-open 2 = 0.70, RP - Hang 1 = 0.68, OS - Hang 1 = 0.72, RP - Hang 2 = 0.67, OS - Hang 2 = 0.73. The RP result was explained in 63% by the system of variables: finger strength plus fatigue resistance in isometric contraction on a larger slat. On the other hand, the OS result was explained in 77% by the same system of variables. Conclusions: Climbers with the highest rock-climbing level should have similar or even more favourable values of those somatic features considered significant than climbers representing the elite level. A high level of finger strength and fatigue resistance in isometric contraction of the forearm muscles significantly determines the effectiveness of climbing at higher elite/elite levels.

Study aim. The main aim of research was to verify which of the countermovement jumps (CMJ) provides the most accurate information on the possibility of obtaining the best result in a climbing run and to assess the coexistence (correlation) of the running result as well as the reaction time to an auditory signal. Material and methods. The study was conducted among a group of male climbers at the average age of 20.5 years (n=6). At the time of the measurements, the competitors presented the highest sports level and were members of the Polish National Team in the speed climbing competition. Somatic measurements were carried out successively, followed by measurements of simple reaction time and various jumps. Results. Correlations between the studied variables characteristic of somatic features as well as motor skills with climbing time were, in most cases, not significant. Statistically significant correlations at the level of p<0.05 were found between running time and the following trials: CMJb (cm) (rx,y: -0.88); PmaxCMJb (W/kg) (rx,y: -0.88) and PmaxCMJb (W/LBMkg) (rx,y: -0.86). Conclusions. CMJ without arm swing is a valuable tool in assessing the motor potential of a sprinting climber and is a test of great informative value in the context of the possibility to obtain high results in a speed climbing competition. The applied test to assess the level of response time to the auditory signal was a trial, which to a moderate extent, allows to diagnose the possibility of achieving high results in a speed climbing sprint.

1 University School of Physical Education in Cracow, Institute of Sport, Department of Track and Field’s Sports, Kraków, Poland 2 University School of Physical Education in Cracow, Institute of Sport, Doctor Courses, Kraków, Poland 3 University School of Physical Education in Cracow, Department of Tourism and Leisure, Section of Mountaineering and Qualified Tourism, Kraków, Poland 4 University of Warsaw, Department of Physical and Sport Education, Warszawa, Poland 5 University School of Physical Education in Cracow, Institute of Sport, Department of Gymnastics, Kraków, Poland 6 University School of Physical Education in Cracow, Institute of Biomedical, Department the Biological Renovation and the Correction of Defects of Attitudes, Kraków, Poland 7 University School of Physical Education in Cracow, Institute of Sport, Department of Gymnastics, Kraków, Poland 8 The Jerzy Kukuczka Academy of Physical Education, Department of Individual Sports, Katowice, Poland 9 State Higher Vocational School in Tarnow, Institute of Health, Tarnów, Poland 10 Matej Bel University, Faculty of Phylosophy, Department of Physical Education and Sports, Banská Bystrica, Slovakia Evaluation of the level of anaerobic power and its effect on speed climbing performance in elite climbers TRENDS in Sport Sciences 2018; 3(25): 149-158 ISSN 2299-9590 DOI: 10.23829/TSS.2018.25.3-5

Abstract Introduction. Studies have demonstrated an important role of muscle strength and endurance in climbing. However, little research has explored the speed parameters of the muscles of climbers. This study aimed to evaluate biomechanical indices of the functional status of the upper limbs in climbers. Material and methods. Group G1 (n = 3) were athletes who were able to climb 8c+/9a climbing routes using the red-point style and 7c+/8b routes with the on-sight style. Group G2 (n = 5) comprised climbers who were able to climb 8a/8b+ and 7b+/8a routes, respectively. Maximum muscle torques were measured in the elbow and arm flexors and extensors. Hand grip tests, dynamometric arm strength tests, and laboratory endurance tests were conducted. Results. Strength parameters in both joints were similar in the two groups of climbers. Maximum absolute values of hand grip, crimp grip, and global arm force in hanging did not differ between the groups. Furthermore, significant differences were found for relative indices (from circa 3% to circa 12%). No significant differences were recorded for the parameters of muscle speed. Furthermore, no significant effect of the subjects’ skill level on the results of endurance tests was found. The results obtained in the groups of athletes (G1, G2, and G1+2) were compared with the values recorded in a control group of students (GC, n = 48). Conclusions. Elite climbers were found to have an advantage over the controls only in strength and muscular endurance. No significant differences were observed in the results of speed tests in the muscles of the athletes and students examined in the study. The climbers (G1 and G2) differed in the strength potential of their muscles, but only when relative force indices were analysed. No differences were found in the biomechanical variables of speed and muscular endurance. Conventional tests are typically not a valuable diagnostic tool for the evaluation of climbers.

Previous research indicates that high results in speed climbing are determined by a high level of explosive strength and muscle power in the lower limbs. However, a literature review shows that no studies have analysed women practicing this climbing discipline. Therefore, the main goal of the study was to assess the level of development of physique and the level of explosive strength and muscle power of the lower limbs of female speed climbers at a representative level. Furthermore, an attempt was made to analyse the relationships between the variables studied and race time in female speed climbers. The study included 5 female players (speed climbers) who were members of the national team in 2016. The measurements were made during the Polish National Team Camp. The analysis was based on the results of the fastest races expressed in seconds. The measurements and indices computed in the study included body height, body weight, lean body mass, BMI and ponderal index. The assessment of the power of the lower limbs was carried out using two jump tests: CMJ with arm swing and CMJ. Power was expressed relative to body weight and to lean body mass. The highest relationships with race time were recorded for body height (r = 0.94, p < 0.05), body weight (r = 0.96, p < 0.01) and lean body mass (LBM) (r = 0.98, p < 0.01). Strong but statistically insignificant relationships were recorded between race time and power indicators of the lower limbs (correlations above r = -0.66). In female speed climbing, race time can be determined by the level of physique. Smaller body size can allow female climbers to perform faster and achieve better times in speed climbing. It can be suggested that in female speed climbing, a high level of maximum alactic anaerobic capacity of the lower limbs is an important factor that affects race time. The results of our own research suggest that in female speed climbing, specific body characteristics may to a greater extent determine the race time compared to anaerobic maximum power of the lower limbs.

Purpose The primary aim of this study is to determine the principal somatic and motor determinants for elite climbers. Methods Twenty climbers were examined [age: 28.5±6.1 years].The runners were divided into two groups based on their climbing level, according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Elite climbers represented a 8b-8c Rotpunkt (RP) climbing level (n = 6), and advanced climbers represented an 7c+-8a RP level (n = 14). The following measurements were assessed: height, weight, lean body mass, upper limb length, arm span, and forearm, arm, thigh and calf circumference. The BMI, Rohrer ratio, and Ape Index were also measured. The following motor tests were assessed: a specific test for finger strength, an arm strength test, and a test of muscle endurance (hanging from 2.5 and 4 cm ledges). In addition, pull ups were used to measure muscle resistance to fatigue. Results Elite climbers recorded significantly higher values for finger strength than advanced climbers (129.08 vs. 111.54 kg; t(18) = 2.35, p = 0.03) and arm endurance (33.17 vs. 25.75 pull ups; t(18) = 2.54, p = 0.02). In addition, the calf circumference was significantly lower in elite climbers than that in advanced climbers (34.75 vs. 36.93 cm; t(18) = 3.50, p = 0.003). Conclusion The results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength and arm endurance than advanced climbers.

The purpose of this study was to investigate physiological responses to climbing with different hold types. Eight elite climbers (red-point achievements 8a – 9a, French grades) performed two climbing tests to failure which were steady in pace and uniform in wall inclination, distances between holds and hold deepness. Only the hold contact surface inclination was different. Duration of test 1 (111 ± 54 s) was significantly ( P = 0.005) less than test 2 (255 ± 127 s), but peak and average oxygen uptake (V̇O2), heart rate (HR) and post-climbing lactate concentrations were not different ( P > 0.05). Nevertheless, hold type had a greater impact on peak compared to average V̇O2 and HR. Peak V̇O2 and HR in test 1 and 2 were 34.1 ± 4.8 versus 37 ± 2.1 ml/min/kg and 166 ± 16 versus 171 ± 13 bpm, respectively. Average V̇O2 and HR were 28.2 ± 2.7 versus 29.2 ± 2.1 ml/min/kg and 154 ± 15 versus 156 ± 14 bpm. Duration of test 1 and percent lactate clearance were significantly correlated with red-point achievement ( r = 0.94, P = 0.001 and r = 0.75, P = 0.033, respectively). Peak V̇O2 was significantly correlated with duration of test 1 ( r = 0.80, P = 0.017) and average V̇O2 was significantly correlated with duration of test 2 ( r = 0.85, P = 0.008). Different climbing hold types had no influence on either average or maximal V̇O2 and HR or on post-climbing lactate. Therefore, these variables could be used for performance evaluation but not as intensity indicators during training for sport climbing.

The present study was designed to determine which types of specific tests provide an effective evaluation of strength and endurance in highly trained competitive sport climbers. The research process consisted of three basic components: the measurement of selected somatic characteristics of the climbers, the assessment of their physical conditioning, and a search for correlations between the anthropometric and "conditioning" variables on the one hand, and climber's performance on the other. The sample of subjects consisted of 14 experienced volunteer climbers capable of handling 7a- 8a+/b on-sight rock climbing grades. The strongest correlations (Spearman's rank) were found between climber's competence and the relative results of the finger strength test (r = 0.7); much lower, but still statistically significant coefficients were found between the level of competence and the results of the muscle endurance tests (r = 0.53 - 0.57). Climbers aspiring to attain an elite level must have strong finger and forearm muscles, but most of all, they must be capable of releasing their potential during specific motor capability tests engaging these parts of the body. The forearm muscles of elite climbers must also be very resistant to fatigue. Since highly trained athletes vary only slightly in body mass, this variable does not have a major effect on their performance during strength and endurance tests.