Kinematics and Statistics of Breaking Waves Observed Using SWIFT Buoys

Surface wave instrumentation floats with tracking were deployed by helicopter ahead of five large storms off the Oregon coast. The buoys drifted freely with the wave motions, surface currents, and wind. The buoys use a 9-DoF inertial measurement unit that fuses the measurements of accelerometers, magnetometers, and gyroscopes to measure acceleration in the global North-West-Up reference frame. Rapid sampling (25 Hz) allows for the observation of both propagating wave motions and wave breaking events. Bulk wave parameters and wave spectra are calculated from the motion of the buoys using conventional methods, and breaking wave impacts are identified in the raw acceleration data using a new algorithm based on a short-time Fourier transform. The number of breaking waves is used to infer breaker fraction, which is found to depend on bulk wave steepness as previously shown in the literature. The magnitude and duration of acceleration during breaking is used in a new quantification of breaker intensity, which increases with wave height, period, and steepness. There is significant variance of breaker intensity in a given wave field, such that intense breakers still occur in relatively mild wave fields. The buoy observations are compared to the output of the WaveWatch III forecast model, with evaluation of an empirical breaker prediction scheme applied to WaveWatch III output.