Wrinkle reduction using a topical herbal cream in subjects classified by Sasang constitutional medicine as Soyang type: A randomized double-blind placebo-controlled study

Abstract Introduction Prolonged UV exposure leads to skin photoaging and collagen destruction due to the increased expression of matrix metalloproteases (MMPs). Sasang constitutional medicine (SCM) is a unique type of traditional Korean medicine. Coptis teeta and Trichosanthes rosthornii (CT) are herbal medicines uniquely used for Soyang (SY)-type individuals, and are included in the SY-type formula “Hwangryeonjiwhang-tang,” which is effective against symptoms of skin diseases such as itching and numbness. This study aims to investigate the potential for CT as active components of an herbal mixture for wrinkle-care cosmetics. Methods Cell viability and MMP-1 expression in HaCaT cells were measured by the MTS assay and ELISA, respectively. The CT mixture cream for application on human skin was evaluated in terms of its safety and clinical efficacy by a randomized double-blind placebo-controlled trial. Women aged 40–59 years and classified as SY-type according to SCM were selected as study subjects and applied cream with or without the CT mixture for 12 weeks. Results The decreased viability of HaCaT cells after UVB irradiation was restored in the CT mixture-treated group compared to that observed in the control group. The CT mixture also reduced the expression of MMP-1 that was increased by UVB irradiation. Application of the cream containing CT mixture for 12 weeks enhanced both visual assessment and wrinkle parameters in the test group compared to those in the control group. Conclusion These findings suggest that the CT mixture appears to ameliorate skin wrinkles in SY subjects.