Cut resistance of climbing ropes - A comparative analysis of existing measurement methods and a simulated accident

The cut resistance of climbing ropes remains unsolved despite numerous attempts to address it over the past 20 years. Recently, new laboratory test methods have been developed to evaluate rope performance better. This paper compares the fiber failure modes induced by these tests to those observed after a simulated climbing accident. Characteristic fiber failure modes were identified for each test, depending on the position within the rope's cross-section. The results show that current laboratory methods do not comprehensively replicate the breaking mechanisms in the sheath and core that can occur during actual climbing accidents. The UIAA 101 test, however, shows the most potential for accurately reproducing failure modes with certain modifications.