Environmental risk assessment (ERA) has not yet undergone the shift toward new approach methodologies (NAMs), that has reshaped human health safety assessment. This study adapts the 10-step read across next generation risk assessment (NGRA) framework developed for cosmetic safety, to the environmental domain and applies it to triclosan (TCS), given its data richness and environmental relevance.The framework consists of three tiers: Tier 0 for problem formulation and in silico screening; Tier 1 for bioavailability estimation and mode of action hypothesis formulation; and Tier 2 for refinement, hazard characterisation, risk quantification and uncertainty assessment. Four core principles are proposed for environmental NGRA: the assessments should (1) be exposure-anchored, (2) be mechanism-based, (3) have translatable thresholds, and (4) be both protective and transparent.Exposure was assessed using a two-tier use-based predicted environmental concentration (PEC) approach. The lower tier applied a conservative aggregate cosmetic exposure scenario, yielding a screening PEC of 0.74 µg/L. This value exceeded both the ecological threshold of toxicological concern (ecoTTC) and Tier 0 read across thresholds, triggering refinement using year specific exposure data.Integrated bioactivity, QIVIVE and conservation analysis identified lipid and steroid metabolism as the most sensitive pathways. Tier 2 yielded two NGRA predicted no effect concentrations (PNECs): a species sensitivity distribution (SSD)-based PNEC of 0.020 µg/L and a lowest environmental point of departure (ePoD)-based PNEC of 0.007 µg/L. Risk characterisation ratios (RCRs) were below 1 from 2019 onwards under both routes, supporting an environmental NGRA approach at least as protective as conventional ERA.While the proposed framework has been demonstrated for an insecticide, this study extends it to a cosmetic ingredient, broadening the transferability of the 10-step framework for NAM-based ERA.

Under the European Cosmetic Regulation, safety assessments of cosmetics and their ingredients must be conducted without the use of animals. This regulatory requirement poses a number of challenges, as validated alternative methods are only available for some of the toxicological endpoints that are typically considered in standard human health risk assessments. Despite significant progress since the ban in 2013, particularly in the development of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) for local and acute toxicity, and for mutagenicity/genotoxicity, there remains an urgent need for non-animal test methods to assess systemic toxicity, which often becomes evident after repeated or long-term exposure. Currently, no validated animal-free alternatives are available for assessing sub-acute, sub-chronic and chronic toxicity, carcinogenicity, developmental/reproductive toxicity, or for a major part of toxicokinetics. In response to these challenges, the Methodology Working Group of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety organised a dedicated workshop in December 2024 to discuss advances in the application of Next Generation Risk Assessment (NGRA) as a strategic animal-free approach for the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients. The workshop focused on a number of important key issues for the practical application of NAMs and NGRA, their regulatory acceptance and identification of possible (partial) solutions to overcome existing limitations.

Hyperpigmentation remains a persistent dermatological challenge with limited treatment options. Among available strategies, tyrosinase inhibition stands out as the current most effective and safest approach for suppressing melanin synthesis. Thiamidol exemplifies a targeted tyrosinase inhibitor developed over a decade of research, guided by rigorous toxicological evaluation. Although it contains a resorcinol moiety, Thiamidol is not a resorcinol derivative and acts through a distinct thiazole 2-amino moiety. In addition to its targeted mode of action of tyrosinase inhibition rather than inactivation, assessments of cytotoxicity and genotoxicity distinguish it from cosmetic and pharmaceutical active ingredients that form highly reactive ortho- or para-quinones. With further exclusion for off-target effects based on pharma profiling and exposure modeling, Thiamidol's rapid metabolism and absence of bioaccumulation support its safety profile. While an inhibitory mechanism requires repeated application, this characteristic enhances the safety profile and establishes Thiamidol as a cosmetic ingredient rather than a pharmaceutical. In additional to confirmatory clinical studies for efficacy and skin compatibility, a study shows that the use of Thiamidol-containing products does not negatively impact the dermatological diagnostic accessibility of naevi, which is important for skin health monitoring.

Toxicological test methods generate raw data and provide instructions on how to use these to determine a final outcome such as a classification of test compounds as hits or non-hits. The data processing pipeline provided in the test method description is often highly complex. Usually, multiple layers of data, ranging from a machine-generated output to the final hit definition, are considered. Transition between each of these layers often requires several data processing steps. As changes in any of these processing steps can impact the final output of new approach methods (NAMs), the processing pipeline is an essential part of a NAM description and should be included in reporting templates such as the ToxTemp. The same raw data, processed in different ways, may result in different final outcomes that may affect the readiness status and regulatory acceptance of the NAM, as an altered output can affect robustness, performance, and relevance. Data management, processing, and interpretation are therefore important elements of a comprehensive NAM definition. We aim to give an overview of the most important data levels to be considered during the development and application of a NAM. In addition, we illustrate data processing and evaluation steps between these data levels. As NAMs are increasingly standard components of the spectrum of toxicological test methods used for risk assessment, awareness of the significance of data processing steps in NAMs is crucial for building trust, ensuring acceptance, and fostering the reproducibility of NAM outcomes.

The in vitro intestinal permeability of straight- and branched-chain parabens has not been extensively investigated. Sixteen parabens were tested in the Caco-2 assay. Passive diffusion was measured using PAMPA. The transport of the MCT1 substrate, p-coumaric acid, as well as propylparaben and isopropylparaben, was investigated. For straight-chain parabens, Papp A-B and Papp B-A decreased with increasing chain length and LogP. Papp B-A values were similar to PAMPA permeability (Papp PAMPA), indicating passive diffusion. Losses in mass balance were due to non-specific binding, accumulation in the cells, and/or hydrolysis to 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HBA). The extent of hydrolysis of straight-chain parabens was inversely proportional to their LogP, suggesting they are carboxylesterase-1 (CES1) substrates. For C1-C5 straight-chain parabens, Papp A-B was higher than Papp B-A, indicating vectoral permeability. Transport of parent propylparaben was passive and pH-independent, but 4-HBA formed was actively transported out of the cells, which was pH-dependent. This indicated the involvement of apical MCT1 transporters (their presence was confirmed using p-coumaric acid). Kinetics measurements suggested that efflux of 4-HBA is predominantly via the basolateral membrane. Branched-chain parabens with good passive diffusion were poor CES1 substrates but may be transported via processes other than 4-HBA MCT1 efflux. In conclusion, Papp values for parabens are best calculated using parent chemical and 4-HBA. The extent of vectoral permeability of straight-chain but not branched-chain parabens is correlated to the extent of hydrolysis and the concentration-dependent contribution of passive vs. active efflux of parent and 4-HBA, respectively.

In a read-across assessment of the safety of genistein and daidzein in cosmetic products, additional information was required to account for differences in their systemic exposure after topical application in a typical body lotion formulation. Therefore, we measured the penetration and metabolism of two doses (3 and 30 nmoles/cm2) of genistein and daidzein applied in ethanol and in a body formulation to fresh pig skin, fresh and frozen human skin, and PhenionFT models. Both chemicals readily penetrated all skin models when applied in ethanol. The same sulfate and glucuronide metabolites were formed in fresh pig skin, fresh human skin, and PhenionFT models, which also all demonstrated that (a) these pathways could be saturated between 3 and 30 nmoles/cm2 and (b) the extent of metabolism of daidzein was lower than genistein. Although the relative amounts of radiolabeled chemical in human skin and medium compartments were altered by freezing, their overall bioavailability was not affected. The greatest impact on the bioavailability and distribution of both chemicals was observed when they were applied in the formulation. Most of the dose applied in the formulation was retained on the skin surface, especially at 30 nmoles/cm2 (60%-90%), resulting in much lower amounts in the medium and/or skin. In conclusion, all four skin models demonstrated first-pass metabolism of genistein and daidzein and a marked alteration in their disposition by applying them in a body lotion formulation. This supports the use of fresh pig skin and PhenionFT models as alternatives to human skin for investigating skin metabolism and formulation effects for these two chemicals. The results were used to develop the dermal module of a PBPK model and dose setting for organ-on-chip experiments. They could also be used to refine internal exposure estimates in regulatory safety assessments.

Skin sensitization assessment has progressed from the use of animal models towards the application of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). Several skin sensitization NAMs are accepted for regulatory use, but a majority relies on submerged in vitro cell cultures that limit their applicability domain, posing challenges for testing hydrophobic chemicals and mixtures. A newly developed three-dimensional (3D) Nrf2 reporter epidermis model for skin sensitization assessment is reported. This NAM may help to overcome these limitations. The NAM combines the in vivo-like biology and exposure conditions of 3D epidermis models with the reliability, convenience, and cost-effectiveness of secreted reporter gene technology. The Keap1-Nrf2-ARE pathway was chosen as the reporter gene read-out, as it is induced by most skin sensitizers and already adopted in OECD Test guideline 442D. Immortalized human primary keratinocytes (Ker-CT) were stably transfected with the pIGB-Nrf2-SEAP vector to construct a Nrf2 reporter cell line. Ker-CT Nrf2 reporter cells showed negligible basal expression of the Secreted Embryonic Alkaline Phosphatase (SEAP) reporter, which was induced 13.5-fold by exposure to the skin sensitizer cinnamic aldehyde (CA). Co-exposure to CA and the Nrf2 inhibitor glucocorticoid clobetasol propionate significantly suppressed the CA-induced SEAP expression, confirming dependance of the SEAP expression on Nrf2 activation. Using air-liquid interface and animal constituent free culture conditions, the Ker-CT Nrf2 reporter cells differentiated to stratified 3D epidermis models with an in vivo-like skin architecture and functional skin barrier. Evaluation of a Ker-CT Nrf2 reporter cell-based 2D assay by testing 10 conventional reference chemicals showed a predictive accuracy for skin sensitization potential of 80% and 70% compared to LLNA and human data in two independent laboratories and a high intra- and interlaboratory reproducibility. Moreover, the 3D epidermis models predicted 3 sensitizing and 2 non-sensitizing reference chemicals correctly in a first proof-of-concept study. Further investigations foresee the testing of additional chemicals, including hydrophobic compounds and mixtures to confirm the potential of the 3D epidermis models to broaden the applicability domain for NAM-based skin sensitization assessment.

IntroductionAll cosmetic ingredients must be evaluated for their safety to consumers. In the absence of in vivo data, systemic concentrations of ingredients can be predicted using Physiologically based Pharmacokinetic (PBPK) models. However, more examples are needed to demonstrate how they can be validated and applied in Next-Generation Risk Assessments (NGRA) of cosmetic ingredients. We used a bottom-up approach to develop human PBPK models for genistein and daidzein for a read-across NGRA, whereby genistein was the source chemical for the target chemical, daidzein.MethodsAn oral rat PBPK model for genistein was built using PK-Sim® and in vitro ADME input data. This formed the basis of the daidzein oral rat PBPK model, for which chemical-specific input parameters were used. Rat PBPK models were then converted to human models using human-specific physiological parameters and human in vitro ADME data. In vitro skin metabolism and penetration data were used to build the dermal module to represent the major route of exposure to cosmetics.ResultsThe initial oral rat model for genistein was qualified since it predicted values within 2-fold of measured in vivo PK values. This was used to predict plasma concentrations from the in vivo NOAEL for genistein to set test concentrations in bioassays. Intrinsic hepatic clearance and unbound fractions in plasma were identified as sensitive parameters impacting the predicted Cmax values. Sensitivity and uncertainty analyses indicated the developed PBPK models had a moderate level of confidence. An important aspect of the development of the dermal module was the implementation of first-pass metabolism, which was extensive for both chemicals. The final human PBPK model for daidzein was used to convert the in vitro PoD of 33 nM (from an estrogen receptor transactivation assay) to an external dose of 0.2% in a body lotion formulation.ConclusionPBPK models for genistein and daidzein were developed as a central component of an NGRA read-across case study. This will help to gain regulatory confidence in the use of PBPK models, especially for cosmetic ingredients.

Skin sensitisation is a critical adverse effect assessed to ensure the safety of compounds and materials exposed to the skin. Alongside the development of new approach methodologies (NAMs), defined approaches (DAs) have been established to promote skin sensitisation potency assessment by adopting and integrating standardised in vitro, in chemico, and in silico methods with specified data analysis procedures to achieve reliable and reproducible predictions. The incorporation of additional NAMs could help increase accessibility and flexibility. Using superior algorithms may help improve the accuracy of hazard and potency assessment and build confidence in the results. Here, we introduce two new DA models, with the aim to build DAs on freely available software and the newly developed kDPRA for covalent binding of a chemical to skin peptides and proteins. The new DA models are built on an existing Bayesian network (BN) modelling approach and expand on it. The new DA models include kDPRA data as one of the in vitro parameters and utilise in silico inputs from open-source QSAR models. Both approaches perform at least on par with the existing BN DA and show 63% and 68% accuracy when predicting four LLNA potency classes, respectively. We demonstrate the value of the Bayesian network’s confidence indications for predictions, as they provide a measure for differentiating between highly accurate and reliable predictions (accuracies up to 87%) in contrast to low-reliability predictions associated with inaccurate predictions.

Changes in DNA methylation patterning have been reported to be a key hallmark of aged human skin. The altered DNA methylation patterns are correlated with deregulated gene expression and impaired tissue functionality, leading to the well-known skin aging phenotype. Searching for small molecules, which correct the aged methylation pattern therefore represents a novel and attractive strategy for the identification of anti-aging compounds. DNMT1 maintains epigenetic information by copying methylation patterns from the parental (methylated) strand to the newly synthesized strand after DNA replication. We hypothesized that a modest inhibition of this process promotes the restoration of the ground-state epigenetic pattern, thereby inducing rejuvenating effects. In this study, we screened a library of 1800 natural substances and 640 FDA-approved drugs and identified the well-known antioxidant and anti-inflammatory molecule dihydromyricetin (DHM) as an inhibitor of the DNA methyltransferase DNMT1. DHM is the active ingredient of several plants with medicinal use and showed robust inhibition of DNMT1 in biochemical assays. We also analyzed the effect of DHM in cultivated keratinocytes by array-based methylation profiling and observed a moderate, but significant global hypomethylation effect upon treatment. To further characterize DHM-induced methylation changes, we used published DNA methylation clocks and newly established age predictors to demonstrate that the DHM-induced methylation change is associated with a reduction in the biological age of the cells. Further studies also revealed re-activation of age-dependently hypermethylated and silenced genes in vivo and a reduction in age-dependent epidermal thinning in a 3-dimensional skin model. Our findings thus establish DHM as an epigenetic inhibitor with rejuvenating effects for aged human skin.

We performed an ab initio next-generation risk assessment (NGRA) for a fragrance ingredient, benzyl salicylate (BSal), to demonstrate how cosmetic ingredients can be evaluated for systemic toxicity endpoints based on non-animal approaches. New approach methodologies (NAMs) used to predict the internal exposure included skin absorption assays, hepatocyte metabolism, and physiologically based pharmacokinetic (PBPK) modeling, and potential toxicodynamic effects were assessed using pharmacology profiling, ToxProfiler cell stress assay, transcriptomics in HepG2 and MCF-7 cells, ReproTracker developmental and reproductive toxicology (DART) assays, and cytotoxicity assays in human kidney cells. The outcome of the NGRA was compared to that of the traditional risk assessment approach based on animal data. The identification of the toxicologically critical entity was a critical step that directed the workflow and the selection of chemicals for PBPK modeling and testing in bioassays. The traditional risk assessment and NGRA identified salicylic acid (SA) as the “toxdriver.” A deterministic PBPK model for a single-day application of 1.54 g face cream containing 0.5% BSal estimated the Cmax for BSal (1 nM) to be much lower than that of its major in vitro metabolite, SA (93.2 nM). Therefore, SA was tested using toxicodynamics bioassays. The lowest points of departure (PoDs) were obtained from the toxicogenomics assays. The interpretation of these results by two companies and methods were similar (SA only results in significant gene deregulation in HepG2 cells), but PoD differed (213 μM and 10.6 µM). A probabilistic PBPK model for repeated applications of the face cream estimated the highest Cmax of SA to be 630 nM. The resulting margins of internal exposure (MoIE) using the PoDs were 338 and 16, which were more conservative than those derived from external exposure and in vivo PoDs (margin of safety values were 9,705). In conclusion, both traditional and ab initio NGRA approaches concluded that the daily application of BSal in a cosmetic leave-on face cream at 0.5% is safe for humans. The processing and interpretation of toxicogenomics data can lead to different PoDs, which can subsequently affect the calculation of the MoIE. This case study supports the use of NAMs in a tiered NGRA ab initio approach.

AbstractSensitivity analyses are important components of physiologically based pharmacokinetic (PBPK) model development and are required by regulatory agencies for PBPK submissions. They assess the impact of parametric uncertainty and variability on model estimates, aid model optimization by identifying parameters requiring calibration, and enable the testing of assumptions within PBPK models. One‐at‐a‐time (OAT) sensitivity analyses quantify the impact on a model output in response to changes in a single parameter while holding others fixed. Global sensitivity analysis (GSA) methods provide more comprehensive assessments by accounting for changes in all uncertain or variable parameters, though at a higher computational cost. This tutorial article presents a software package for conducting both OAT and GSA of PBPK models built in the Open Systems Pharmacology (OSP) Suite. The tool is accessible through either an R script or a graphical user interface, and the outputs consist of sensitivity metrics of pharmacokinetic (PK) parameters, such as Cmax and AUC, evaluated with respect to model input parameters. Results are formatted according to regulatory standards. The OAT analysis methods comprise two‐way local sensitivity analyses and probabilistic uncertainty analyses, whereas the GSA methods include the Morris, Sobol, and EFAST methods. These analyses can be conducted on single PBPK models or pairs of models for the evaluation of the sensitivity of PK parameter ratios in drug–drug interaction studies. The practical application of the package is demonstrated through three illustrative case studies.

Introduction: We performed an exposure-based Next Generation Risk Assessment case read-across study using New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) to determine the highest safe concentration of daidzein in a body lotion, based on its similarities with its structural analogue, genistein. Two assumptions were: (1) daidzein is a new chemical and its dietary intake omitted; (2) only in vitro data were used for daidzein, while in vitro and legacy in vivo data for genistein were considered.Methods: The 10-step tiered approach evaluating systemic toxicity included toxicokinetics NAMs: PBPK models and in vitro biokinetics measurements in cells used for toxicogenomics and toxicodynamic NAMs: pharmacology profiling (i.e., interaction with molecular targets), toxicogenomics and EATS assays (endocrine disruption endpoints). Whole body rat and human PBPK models were used to convert external doses of genistein to plasma concentrations and in vitro Points of Departure (PoD) to external doses. The PBPK human dermal module was refined using in vitro human skin metabolism and penetration data.Results: The most relevant endpoint for daidzein was from the ERα assay (Lowest Observed Effective Concentration was 100 ± 0.0 nM), which was converted to an in vitro PoD of 33 nM. After application of a safety factor of 3.3 for intra-individual variability, the safe concentration of daidzein was estimated to be 10 nM. This was extrapolated to an external dose of 0.5 μg/cm2 for a body lotion and face cream, equating to a concentration of 0.1%.Discussion: When in vitro PoD of 33 nM for daidzein was converted to an external oral dose in rats, the value correlated with the in vivo NOAEL. This increased confidence that the rat oral PBPK model provided accurate estimates of internal and external exposure and that the in vitro PoD was relevant in the safety assessment of both chemicals. When plasma concentrations estimated from applications of 0.1% and 0.02% daidzein were used to calculate bioactivity exposure ratios, values were >1, indicating a good margin between exposure and concentrations causing adverse effects. In conclusion, this case study highlights the use of NAMs in a 10-step tiered workflow to conclude that the highest safe concentration of daidzein in a body lotion is 0.1%.

OECD test guideline compliant skin penetration studies, which also comply with the SCCS basic criteria, are lacking for genistein and daidzein. Therefore, we have measured their penetration and metabolism using ex vivo explants of fresh (i.e., metabolically viable) pig skin, fresh and frozen human skin, and Phenion full-thickness (FT) models. Preliminary studies using fresh pig skin helped to define the optimal experimental conditions. The dermal absorption of 10 nmoles/cm2 genistein and daidzein in ethanol was comparable in all four models. A first-pass metabolism in skin to glucuronide and sulfate metabolites was demonstrated for both chemicals in all models except frozen human skin. The main difference between fresh skin models was the overall extent of metabolism and the relative ratio of each metabolite, for example, much lower sulfate conjugates were formed in pig skin incubations. The extent of parent chemical metabolized and the contribution of the glucuronide pathway were relatively lower in PhenionFT models than in fresh human skin, possibly due to a higher penetration rate in this model and differences in the expression of functional metabolizing enzymes. When metabolism in human skin was abolished by freezing, more radiolabelled chemical remained in the skin tissue but the overall dermal absorption was unchanged. In conclusion, this initial characterization study showed that all models tested indicated that genistein and daidzein extensively penetrated the skin when applied to skin in ethanol. All fresh skin models produced the same metabolites, with the known species difference in the sulfation pathway demonstrated in pig skin.

The HUMMIC skin-liver Chip2 microphysiological system using EpiDerm™ and HepaRG and stellate liver spheroids was used to evaluate the route-specific metabolism and toxicodynamic effects of genistein. Human-relevant exposure levels were compared: 60 nM representing the plasma concentration expected after topical application of a cosmetic product and 1 μM representing measured plasma concentrations after ingesting soya products. Genistein was applied as single and repeated topical and/or systemic doses. The kinetics of genistein and its metabolites were measured over 5 days. Toxicodynamic effects were measured using transcriptional analyses of skin and liver organoids harvested on Days 2 and 5. Route-specific differences in genistein's bioavailability were observed, with first-pass metabolism (sulfation) occurring in the skin after topical application. Only repeated application of 1 μM, resembling daily oral intake of soya products, induced statistically significant changes in gene expression in liver organoids only. This was concomitant with a much higher systemic concentration of genistein which was not reached in any other dosing scenario. This suggests that single or low doses of genistein are rapidly metabolised which limits its toxicodynamic effects on the liver and skin. Therefore, by facilitating longer and/or repeated applications, the Chip2 can support safety assessments by linking relevant gene modulation with systemically available parent or metabolite(s). The rate of metabolism was in accordance with the short half-life observed in in vivo in humans, thus supporting the relevance of the findings. In conclusion, the skin-liver Chip2 provides route-specific information on metabolic fate and toxicodynamics that may be relevant to safety assessment.