Facial pore enlargement is considered a significant esthetic and health concern in skincare cosmetics. The pores fulfill the critical function of keeping the skin surface hydrated and protected against microbial infections. The hyperseborrhea, the stress factors, and the hormonal triggers can cause pore size enlargement, causing higher susceptibility of the skin to microbe aggressions and inflammatory reactions. Thus, reducing excessive sebum production and keeping functional pores are two of the most requested activities in skincare cosmetics. A Cirsium eriophorum cell culture extract was investigated for its role in sebum regulation, stratum corneum desquamation, and anti‐inflammation. The extract was able to regulate essential markers associated with sebum secretion and pore enlargements, such as the enzyme 5α‐reductase, which plays a central role in sebum production, and the trypsin‐like serine protease Kallikrein 5, which promotes skin exfoliation and antimicrobial response. Moreover, the extract showed a sebum‐normalizing and pore refining activity in individuals having seborrheic or acne‐prone skins, suggesting a role of the C. eriophorum extract in rebalancing altered skin conditions responsible for pore enlargement.

An overproduction of free radicals or reactive oxygen species, often due to environmental factors, can alter the DNA structure and irreversibly modify proteins and lipids in the living cells. The superoxide anion (O2-) is one of the strongest oxidant molecules produced under oxidative stress conditions but it can be neutralized by the action of the enzymes SuperOxide Dismutases (SODs). In all the human tissues, SODs are essential for the prevention of serious diseases and the protection against oxidative stress damages. In the dermo-cosmetic sector, SODs have found promising applications, but their use is limited due to the loss of activity following the addition of the enzyme in the skin care formulas and the exposure of the skin to UV radiations and heat. Extremophile organisms, which proliferate in extreme physical and/or geochemical conditions, represent a potential source of stable SOD enzymes, able to function even in harsh conditions of high temperature, acid pH and long UV exposures. In the present study we investigated on a Mn-SOD deriving from the extremophilic bacterium Deinococcus radiodurans and, after its expression in E.coli, the Mn-SOD was characterized in terms of chemical and physical properties. Its extraordinary features in terms of UV resistance prompted us to investigate further about its potential applications in the dermo-cosmetic sector. It was expressed in Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) cell cultures with the main goal of developing a new ingredient, capable of keeping its ROS neutralizing activity once exposed to UV radiations and even when added to skin care formulas.

In the present study, by-products from chestnut peeling processing were used for the production of active ingredients. A blend of inner and outer chestnut shells (IOCS), and inner chestnut shells (ICS) were extracted through an eco-friendly method. IOCS extract contained the highest amount of phenolic molecules (205.99 +/- 13.10 mg of Gallic Acid Equivalents/g of dry extract), and gallic acid was the most abundant compound among those identified by HPLC (63.51 +/- 1.32 mg/g of dry extract). Condensed tannins represented the main phenolic fraction, accounting for 78.88% and 59.14% of the total phenolic compounds in IOCS and ICS extracts, respectively. Both extracts decreased the production of oxidized lipids in HaCaT keratinocytes after H2O2 exposure. They showed protecting activity against inflammation as well, because the production of NO and iNOS, selected as inflammatory markers, was attenuated. IOCS extract (0.002%) showed greater activity with a reduction of 58% of NO and 43% of iNOS levels. The extracts also exhibited hydration capacity and protection against collagen degradation in HaCaT keratinocytes. All the results suggest that chestnut shell extracts can be potential active ingredients for cosmetic formulations devoted to the skin protection.

The use of microalgae in the skin care market is already established although the scientific rationale for their benefit was not clearly defined. In this work, the biological activities of dermatologic interest of the water extract from the microalga Botryococcus braunii (BBWE) were evaluated by a battery of in vitro assays. At concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 0.001 % (w/v) BBWE promoted adipocytes differentiation by inhibiting hormone-sensitive lipase, thus promoting triglyceride accumulation in the cells. BBWE also induced gene expression of proteins involved in the maintenance of skin cells water balance such as aquaporin-3 (AQP3), filaggrin (FLG) and involucrin (INV). 0.1 % BBWE increased the gene expression of AQP3 of 2.6-folds, that of FLG and INV of 1.5- and 1.9-folds, respectively. Moreover, it induced the biosynthesis of collagen I and collagen III by 80 and 40 %, respectively, compared to the untreated control. BBWE antioxidant activity, evaluated by oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) assay, was of 43.5 μmol Trolox per gram of extract: a quite high value among those found for other microalgae extracts. BBWE inhibited the inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) gene expression and the consequent nitrite oxide (NO) production under oxidative stress. At a concentration of 0.02 % BBWE reduced by 50 % the expression of iNOS and by about 75 % the NO production. Taken together, the results demonstrated that B. braunii water extract exerted an array of biological activities concurring with the skin health maintenance; therefore, it is a potential bioactive ingredient to be included in cosmetic products.

Heavy metals can cause several genotoxic effects on cells, including oxidative stress, DNA sequence breakage and protein modification. Among the body organs, skin is certainly the most exposed to heavy metal stress and thus the most damaged by the toxic effects that these chemicals cause. Moreover, heavy metals, in particular nickel, can induce the over-expression of collagenases (enzymes responsible for collagen degradation), leading to weakening of the skin extracellular matrix. Plants have evolved sophisticated mechanisms to protect their cells from heavy metal toxicity, including the synthesis of metal chelating proteins and peptides, such as metallothioneins and phytochelatins (PC), which capture the metals and prevent the damages on the cellular structures. To protect human skin cells from heavy metal toxicity, we developed a new cosmetic active ingredient from Lycopersicon esculentum (tomato) cultured stem cells. This product, besides its high content of antioxidant compounds, contained PC, effective in the protection of skin cells towards heavy metal toxicity. We have demonstrated that this new product preserves nuclear DNA integrity from heavy metal damages, by inducing genes responsible for DNA repair and protection, and neutralizes the effect of heavy metals on collagen degradation, by inhibiting collagenase expression and inducing the synthesis of new collagen.

In the present article, the authors evaluate a wild red raspberry (Rubus idaeus) extract for its beneficial compounds and potential applications in skin care. From leaf explants, raspberry stem cells were obtained to develop an extract rich in antioxidants, anthocyanins and phenolics. This extract exhibited anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities.