This article aims to unpack and analyse the historical manifestations of slavery and the material content of commodities employed during the transatlantic slave trade in the Gold Coast, Ghana, from around 1650-1900. The exchange commodities were not simply economic tools; they held significant 'materialistic content' that actively influenced and mirrored the social, political, and cultural contexts of selected Ghanaian communities. The analysis includes reminiscing about the historical manifestation of the slave trade in Ghana, focusing on various imported and exported goods/items. This study utilises document review and interviews through a material culture theoretical framework to examine how Ghanaian scholars actively interpreted, contested, and assigned meaning to these commodities. The findings confirmed that the historical narratives of the transatlantic slave trade serve as a significant testament to the deep inequalities and the reflective suffering endured by millions of people in Ghana. Furthermore, the article indicates that the materialistic aspects of these commodities had a substantial impact on social stratification, political power dynamics, and local industries, while being closely associated with the harsh realities of enslavement. It also highlights the intricate exchanges between the European traders and Ghanaian traditional rulers, where a variety of commodities were exchanged for individuals.

Purpose – The purpose of this study is to present a mini-integrated review on upcycling as a marketing strategy used by brands in promoting sustainability. Upcycling has emerged as a promising strategy for sustainability in the fashion industry. Activities within the industry have resulted in the release of toxic chemicals, carbon emissions and unsustainable products with significant environmental impacts. This has influenced manufacturers and researchers to adopt alternative but sustainable approaches. Design/methodology/approach – In this mini-integrated review, relevant documents and information were sourced from appropriate databases and websites to provide a brief insight into upcycling as a marketing tool. Findings – This mini-integrated review further provides insight into how effective upcycling can be integrated into a brand’s marketing strategy as a tool to communicate its commitment to sustainability and the production of high-value products for consumer satisfaction. It concludes that the fashion industry has a significant impact on the environment, and the practice of upcycling has surfaced as a potential solution to address issues of sustainability paving the way for further studies. Originality/value – Brands use upcycling to differentiate themselves from competitors and appeal to consumers who prioritize sustainability. By emphasizing the environmental benefits of upcycling, brands can position themselves as leaders in the domain of sustainable fashion practices.

This empirical study, based on Routine Activity Theory (RAT), aimed to explore the drivers behind environmental harm, the factors that contribute to the suitability of the environment as a target for ecological harm, and the strategies for promoting sustainability in Ghana's textile industry. To achieve this, interpretive phenomenology was employed alongside a descriptive research design. A purposive sampling technique was utilized to select 25 textile designers for semi-structured interviews. The collected data were then processed using NVivo 12.1 and analyzed thematically through interpretative phenomenological analysis, which facilitated the identification of recurring themes, patterns, and insights. The study identified several fundamental motivating factors driving environmentally harmful practices, including a profit-driven mindset, the market demand for textile fabric, limited awareness and education, resource constraints, as well as cultural and esthetic preferences. The findings of this study provide substantial evidence to unravel the ecological crime scene within Ghana's textiles industry, thereby informing policy-making and promoting sustainable environmental practices and social responsibilities, all while considering economic sustainability.

The development of e-textiles for various sensing and health monitoring applications has remained difficult because the printed electronic inks must be highly stable on textile substrates, yet flexible enough to adapt to the human contour. Despite the adverse challenges, significant progress has been made over the last few years in the formulation and application of conductive inks for e-textiles. This mini systematic review, therefore, presents the recent advancements in the formulation and application of conductive inks for e-textiles in concert with the clarion call for sustainable textiles. The Scopus database was used to identify relevant publications within the field for effective analysis. After scrutinizing the bulk of publications, a total of 30 studies comprising articles and conference papers were selected and structured in 3 themes, namely, formulation of conductive inks for e-textiles, fabrication and printing methods, and challenges of fabricating conductive inks on textiles. Findings show that significant progress has been made toward formulating silver nanowire inks with exceptional conductivity and flexibility, stabilization of carbon nanotubes and graphene inks with consistent electrical properties, and high substantivity to different textile substrates without pretreatment. Subsequently, deposition techniques such as screen printing, ultrasonic spray coating, syringe-based deposition systems, and direct-write printing are being used for the full realization of printing conductive inks for e-textiles, and are highlighted in this paper. In general, technological advancements have increased the capabilities of e-textile devices made with conductive inks.

OBJECTIVES:The purpose of this study was to present a systematic review of the health-related problems of factory workers in the textile and fashion industry. These workers endure long sitting postures, poor workspace conditions, and long working hours to complete their overload of tasks. This situation results in several health problems that affect the productivity, mental health, and well-being of the workers.METHODS:The relevant data (21 article publications) were obtained from the Scopus database. Analysis of the 21 articles was grouped under 3 research themes based on the critical reading of the content and abstracts: respiratory problems, musculoskeletal disorders, and psychological stressors and other health issues.RESULTS:The findings show that factory workers are exposed to dust particles of cotton and other raw materials, fumes, and chemicals from manufacturing processes. This prolonged exposure without the use of personal protective equipment (PPE) leads to respiratory diseases like byssinosis that affect the workers' health. Additionally, working in a particular posture due to the workstation design for prolonged hours causes musculoskeletal disorders or pains. Workers also suffer from anxiety, depression, and stress from workload and pressure, hence making them unstable with reduced productivity.CONCLUSIONS:The findings of the study reinforce the need for a safe workspace and spacious work environment, provision of PPE, training in occupational hazards, frequent health checks, and ergonomic assessment of workstations to reduce prolonged work postures. Stakeholders, employers, policymakers, and governments should collaborate to safeguard and protect the well-being and health of the workers at these factories.

Purpose - The innovativeness of dressmakers is a concern to respondents to satisfy their clothing needs. The purpose of this study is to determine the criteria that respondents use to judge the quality of clothing and its influences on the innovative ability of dressmakers in the clothing manufacturing industries. Design/methodology/approach - Three hundred and ninety-seven (397) respondents in the Takoradi Metropolis of Ghana filled out a questionnaire, and the results were used to compile data for the study. The sample size was calculated using Miller and Brewer formula. The data was analysed using structural equational modelling with the SmartPLS v.4 software. Findings - The results showed that respondents are very interested in the calibre of clothing produced by their dressmakers. However, the study revealed that when evaluating the quality of a garment, respondents do not simply accept what has been sewn for them but also consider the performance, appearance, fit and shape of the garment. Findings revealed that there was a significant relationship between garment appearance quality (t = 2.605; p < 0.05), garment performance quality (t = 3.915; p < 0.05), garment shape quality (t = 6.248; p <0.05) and fashion innovations. Subsequently, the evaluation of garment fit quality by respondents revealed it does not bring about innovations (t = 1.310; p > 0.05). Practical implications - The continuous evaluation of custom-made clothing from customers will go a long way towards highlighting the relative criteria they use to evaluate the innovation of dressmakers. This will help improve the creativity of the dressmakers since such feedback will help them understand and innovate their production skills to meet the preferences of customers. Originality/value - The present study provides an in-depth understanding of how garment quality evaluation by customers influences the innovation of dressmakers in Takoradi, Ghana. The constructs were developed for the study to capture the appropriate data from customers for the study. This presents an evaluation criterion on four garment quality variables imperative for use or modification by other studies.

Purpose Safety-related issues are prominent in dyeing workplaces and studios that result in accidents. The purpose of this study is to investigate the compliance towards health safety practices by students at the dyeing studios in selected universities in Ghana. Design/methodology/approach A structured online questionnaire was developed and used to collect 285 responses from students studying at the textile and fashion department of ten universities in Ghana. The study used the partial least square (PLS) algorithm of the structural equational modelling (SEM) by bootstrapping with 5,000 samples in the SmartPLS-SEM version 4.0. Findings Students exhibited good attitudes with significant knowledge regarding health safety hazards at the dyeing studio. Results revealed that students’ attitudes significantly and positively affect their knowledge of health safety hazards; hence, as attitude increases, their knowledge of health safety hazards also increases. However, institutional support significantly and negatively affects the knowledge of health safety hazards by students at the dyeing studio. Subsequently, institutional support significantly and positively affects students’ attitudes towards health safety hazards at the dyeing studio; hence, as institutional support increases, their attitude towards health safety hazards also increases. In the moderation analysis, results showed that students’ attitude dampens the negative relationship between institutional support and student’s knowledge. Practical implications Work-related safety at the dyeing studios is very important to help drive for an injurious free hands-on practice with dyeing activities. Hence, the findings of this study call on institutions to provide appropriate personal protective equipments and first aid kits, effective training and supervision for workspace safety at the dyeing studios for students. This would go a long way to maintain good health safety practices during students’ dyeing activities at the studio, hence eliminating possible hazards. Originality/value The present study provides an in-depth understanding of how key variables such as institutional support influence the knowledge and attitude of students towards studio dyeing practices. Key findings from the study reiterated the importance of training workshops, state-of-the-art studios and adherence to safety by students to prevent injuries.

Fabricating printed electronic inks that are highly stable on textile substrates has remained a challenge for researchers to fully achieve e-textiles for various sensing and health monitoring applications. This review reports progress in addressing challenges with conductive inks for e-textiles. Relevant studies highlight major achievements including developing stable carbon nanotube and graphene inks with consistent electrical properties, formulating silver nanowire inks with excellent conductivity and flexibility, and enhancing the adhesion of carbon nanotube inks to fabrics without pretreatment. Key findings show improved dispersion and biocompatibility of carbon nanotubes using silk protein, high stability of graphene inks in optimized solvents, and flexible semiconductor inks able to withstand bending. Overall, advances have expanded the capabilities of e-textile devices fabricated with conductive inks.

This study provides a contextual discussion and re-thinking of the concept of authenticity of West African Textile designs with the changing nature of art and design practices. It further discusses how textile fabrics have evolved through a complex mix of cultural assimilation, translation, transformation and migration; and simultaneously how the various African diasporas have created a dialogue that has shaped subsequent textile developments utilizing a delicate balance of cultural and textile discourses. The works of Yinka Shonibare, Trine Lindegaard, Philippe Bestenhieder, Junya Watanabe, El Anatsui, Grace Ndiritu and other artists and fashion designers who have drawn inspirations from West African textile themes have been used as a means of discussing broader philosophical questions. Their works have found wider acceptance around the World and cast the right shadow for this study. These contemporary designers and artists have used West African textile fabrics in their work by exploring the uniqueness of their color, texture, symbolism, concepts or a combination of these characteristics. It has been inferred that shifting authenticities of process and materiality in contemporary art practice must be embraced as a positive phenomenon and must be considered to be part of a global creative endeavor.

The fashion industry has contributed to greenhouse gas emissions, hence global environmental pollution. Recent happenings in the fashion industry especially activities of fast fashion have promoted rapid production of apparel and accessories to meet the taste and preferences of consumers. These products have resulted in clothing waste ending up in landfills, or burnt in the open, which poses severe environmental risks. Considering this, a mini review was conducted to investigate sustainable technological innovations within circular fashion and bio-based materials which have been advanced in the fashion industry. These recent advances have influenced the possibility of ensuring a cost-effective solution for consumers, limiting waste, and reducing carbon emissions in the environment. Furthermore, we present a selection of case studies by brands and designers on new approaches and materials developed within the circular fashion concept and for bio-based materials. Findings show varying approaches and technologies developed within the circular fashion concept to reduce clothing waste products in the environment. Circular fashion has introduced approaches such as resale, repair, and rent models, the concept of recycling for textile waste, and the concept of disassembly in design which ensures the possibility of easily deconstructing the various parts of a product without any difficulty. Additionally, the development of bio-fabricated materials, bio-dyes, and do-it-yourself (DIY) materials from natural sources has promoted bio-materials with less environmental impact. Consumer perception remained an important element for effective sustainable fashion. Findings revealed that price plays a critical role in influencing consumers to purchase bio-based materials and recycled clothing, with others willing to buy these products due to the environmental impact. It is recommended for effective collaborative efforts between consumers, industry, and the government, for a positive mindset and shift towards a sustained fashion industry.

Purpose The purpose of this study is to investigate the physical, ultraviolet (UV), colour appearance and colour fastness properties of selected fabrics dyed with natural dyes from Daboya and Ntonso communities of Ghana. The study further highlights the rich cultural heritage of traditional dyeing from these two communities. Craftsmen in West Africa especially Ghana, have sustained the traditional dyeing methods to produce textile products for consumers. Design/methodology/approach In this study, two sample fabrics were purchased from craftsmen at Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. These fabrics were analysed at the laboratory under standard test methods for their physical, UV, colour appearance and colour fastness properties. Findings Results showed that all the sample fabrics have good UV shielding performance (ratings above 50+). Daboya sample fabrics (dyed with indigo dyes) produced more colour stains than the sample fabrics from Ntonso (dyed with black “kuntunkuni” dyes). The K/S sum value or colour yield reduced after washing but that alternatively increased the calculated ultraviolet protection factor. Practical implications Findings from this study exposed the unique UV performance of dyed traditional fabrics (using natural dyes) from Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. This inspires and enforces the need for craftsmen to improve their production cycle to produce these fabrics in different sizes which provides the necessary UV shielding abilities for consumers in the wake of climate changes. Originality/value This study demonstrated that the natural dyeing process at the two communities produced relatively good UV and colour fastness properties of the sample fabrics. These eco-friendly dyeing practices have survived over time to maintain and promote the concept of sustainability within the textile and fashion industry in Ghana.

This study explores and reflects on the potential of global commercial application of indig- enous West African fabric design in the middle to high-end interior textiles and surfaces. The study adopts design theory which encourages innovation and creativity in concepts for effective solutions. Theoretically, ideas have been utilized as a method of bringing to light the veiled aspects of practice in indigenous West African fabric production alongside its diverse and complex cultural connections. There is a practical component of the study utilizes a series of 'collaborations' with technology, new textile materials, color resources and global trends to generate forms or visual language that is then translated into com- mercial designs based on indigenous West African fabric themes. The experimentation has adapted traditional artistic and graphic aesthetics (symbols, design motifs, totems and insignia), creatively manipulating them via digital technology and using a mechanized printing process for completion. The designs exemplify a modern adaptation of indigenous West African design symbols for wider global markets which is hoped, will accelerate the transformation of such design forms for the contemporary market. It is anticipated that the new designs will continue to re-define indigenous West African textile expressions and their applications globally.

Purpose: This research investigates TexStyle Ghana Limited’s printed fabric design concepts over three decades, focusing on cultural heritage and consumer preferences, aiming to understand trends and patterns. Design/Methodology/Approach: This research employs qualitative data analysis as the primary approach to investigate design concepts. The research method adopted for this study is a single-case method. The data is collected from TexStyle Ghana Limited (TSGL), a prominent textile printing company in Ghana, with a specific focus on their product lines and historical design trends. The data is analysed based on patterns, and themes within textual or visual data. Findings: TexStyle Ghana Limited (TSGL) offers four unique brands of printed fabrics catering to diverse consumer segments. Their design concepts reflect cultural motifs, traditional heritage, and bold African textile utilisation. TSGL's product lines, such as the Adepa Dumas and NuStyle collections, target specific demographics with distinctive design elements. Research Limitation/Implications: The study's limitation includes focusing on TSGL, although there are other printing companies in Ghana. However, the findings or implications could apply to other textile printing companies. Practical Implication: The research highlights the significance of considering customer preferences and cultural heritage in textile design for Ghanaian companies. These include traditional motifs, vibrant colours, and cultural symbolism that enhances competitiveness and customer satisfaction. Social Implication: Preserving Ghanaian cultural heritage through printed fabrics promotes representation, inclusivity, and global promotion of African art and fashion while catering to diverse consumer segments. Originality/Value: This industry-specific lens allows for targeted insights into the unique challenges and innovations in textile printing, contributing to a more granular understanding of Ghana's fashion landscape.

Abstract Purpose The study examined the relationship between WBL models and certificated learning within Higher (fashion) Education institutions in the Ghanaian context. Design/methodology/approach The study employed the quantitative data collection and analysis technique. Thus, questionnaires were administered. The population included postgraduate and undergraduate students of the HE institutions in Ghana offering the fashion design and textiles studies option and some fashion houses. A purposive sampling technique was used to select forty-eight (48) fashion houses and some graduates practising their acquired skills. Again, out of ten (10) technical universities, eight (8) were selected for data collection. The sampled institutions selected represent a fair distribution of the overall population of HE institutions that offer vocational education, especially higher fashion education programs. A Pearson moment correlation was run to determine the relationship between the core variables. Findings This study draws on the various WBL literature to inform the development of a framework to illustrate the interaction of HE, WBL and the industry. The data collected and analyzed displayed no violation of normality, linearity or homoscedasticity by visual inspection. However, HE had a weak and negative correlation against all the WBL models except for YAP and CA, which were positive, but these also had weak correlations., this is the WBL program that benefits students. Originality This study exhibited a sufficient comprehension of the relationship between WBL and certificated learning within higher education institutions.

This study investigated on promotion and preservation of indigenous textiles and culture in Ghana using qualitative approach. Tour guides, curators, historians and artisans were selected as accessible population as they possessed knowledge of the cultural significance, historical context and traditional methods of textile preservation. The study used a combination of convenience or purposive sampling with random stratified sampling to select 12 respondents (3 from each group) across different regions of Ghana, ensuring a representative sample. The study concluded that indigenous Ghanaian textiles are an essential part of the country's cultural heritage. The use of indigenous textiles in various cultural activities is crucial for preserving and promoting Ghanaian culture. These textiles are deeply intertwined with Ghanaian cultural practices and play crucial roles in transmitting customs and traditions to the outside world. Therefore, it is recommended that efforts should be made to document and preserve indigenous textiles and promote their use in various settings, including formal occasions and cultural events. This will help preserve Ghana's rich cultural heritage and promote cultural tourism in the country.

The issue of second-hand clothing which is exported from Europe and America into the African market remains a critical problem that poses threats to the eco-system. These clothing are sometimes unusable and have a limited life span which is eventually disposed of into landfills and water bodies. Thus, producing smells and toxic chemicals that pollute the air and environment when burnt or left to decompose. These indiscriminate disposals have been a major concern to citizens, stakeholders, and Governments. With the recurring threats posed by this practice, new technological innovations have been proposed and developed by leading brands and new start-ups in the industry to limit such negative impacts. Several studies on second-hand clothing are from the Global South, with limited research conducted by researchers within developing countries to understand the influence of behaviours and attitudes of consumers on the purchase of this clothing. Hence, this paper presents the first attempt to understand consumer attitudes towards the purchase and disposal of second-hand clothing in the environment of Ghana. Furthermore, the initial sections of the paper highlight new technologies and approaches developed by global brands and start-ups in Africa to curb second-hand clothing waste. A structured online questionnaire was developed and used to collect empirical data from 135 consumers in the Ashanti and Greater Accra regions of Ghana, a context that few studies have focused on. The regression analysis revealed that both attitude and disposal behaviour have a significantly positive influence on the consumption intention of consumers. Lastly, attitude had a positive and no significant impact on the relationship between disposal behaviour and consumption intention. Findings contribute to appropriate policy and regulation formation, the need for education, and environmental perspectives on the effects of these clothing for the implementation of circular initiatives. Hence, the study recommends the provision of waste bins, the establishment of recycling plants, and the enforcement of strict regulations to limit the importation of second-hand clothing into the Ghanaian markets.

Purpose: The paper aims to analyze and compare the design concepts in printed fabrics between the pre- and post-2000 periods in Ghana. By examining the changes in design trends, techniques, and motifs, the study also aims to identify the factors that have influenced the evolution of printed fabric designs over time. Methods: This research adopts a concurrent embedded mixed method design, combining qualitative and quantitative methods. Primary data is collected through interviews with textile designers, manufacturers, and industry experts. A comprehensive analysis of printed fabric samples from pre- and post-2000 periods is conducted. The data collected is then analyzed using thematic analysis and statistical techniques. Findings: This research provides insights into the changes in design concepts in the printed fabric industry in Ghana. The study reveals shifts in design trends, such as the adoption of digital printing techniques, the incorporation of contemporary motifs, and the influence of global fashion trends. Research Limitation/Implications: The study's limitations include small sample size, limited representation of Ghana's textile printing industry's diverse design concepts, and insufficient exploration of production processes or market dynamics. Practical Implication: Research highlights design changes in Ghanaian textiles, enabling designers to create innovative, marketable printed fabrics and manufacturers to adapt production processes. Social Implication: The textile printing industry in Ghana significantly impacts cultural identity and economic development. Originality/Value: This research adds value to the existing literature on the textile printing industry by comprehensively analysing the design concepts in printed fabrics in Ghana.

PurposeThe purpose of this study is to present a systematic review of the effects of COVID-19 on the conventional textile production subsector. The emergence of the COVID-19 virus in 2019 has subsequently caused many problems, such as unemployment, business closures, economic instability and high volatility in the global capital markets amongst others within the wider manufacturing industry including textile production. Design/methodology/approachRelevant secondary data are obtained from the Scopus database and Statista. Based on the data analysis of 21 seed articles, three research themes are identified: challenges in the textile industry, new material innovations or solutions and the textile industry performance. FindingsThe results reveal that the COVID-19 pandemic has affected the textile industry, disrupted the supply chains of this industry, affected profit margins, stopped employment and impacted the retail of products to customers. Aside from the negative repercussions, there are also good sides to the pandemic which, for instance, range from advanced material innovations to textiles with anti-microbial, self-cleaning and anti-bacterial properties that would limit the transfer of the virus. Practical implicationsFindings reinforced the need for effective strategies and investments in the research and development departments of the various firms in the textile industry to innovate operations and novel materials for the next global pandemic. Originality/valueMany companies have adopted novel strategies and practices that are helping them to survive the pandemic. This study, therefore, recommends further investigation into material innovations and reimagining strategies by companies and the supply chain within the textile industry so that it is protected against future crises.

This study seeks to project the concept of avant-garde as a viable and radical approach to instilling creativity in a fashion design practitioner through putting together different materials to represent shape and form in the ultimate sculpting of a silhouette. Even though the concept of avant-garde in fashion has existed for over a century in Europe, the Americas and parts of Asia, the concept has not caught up well in Ghana in terms of practice and application. Meanwhile, it has a great potential to engender creativity in the teaching and practice of fashion. This is because avant-garde encompasses experimental processes as well as constantly being on the edge, thinking forward and exploring new materials and design possibilities. Reflecting the times in which we are operating provides a relevance to the form of expression of the fashion designer. The qualitative research methodology was utilised in this study, with observation and interviews as the data collection instrument. The study observed selected fashion practitioners thoroughly, using their philosophies and designs as sources of data. The findings and discussion touched upon on a wide array of visualisations and trends and present avant-garde as a creative concept for fashion design practice in Sekondi-Takoradi, Ghana. The study, therefore, recommends that fashion design students be made more aware of the essence of trying new and unfamiliar materials every now and then to enable them to be more creative. The concept of avant-garde was explored in this study because of its potential for an extended enquiry into the many trajectories of fashion product outcomes.