Over the last years 3D garment simulations have improved the workflow of garment production in the clothing industry. While some brands have established themselves as pioneers in this area, planning collections only digitally, other brands are still considering how to start with 3D. 3D clothing simulation enable a clear reduction in product development times from the design idea to the point of sale . To be able to reduce the number of prototypes, it is crucial to create virtual prototypes, that are as close as possible to the final product. To reduce the differences between the physical and virtual garment, production guidelines are needed to establish rules regarding the workmanship of virtual prototypes. A step-by-step description of the processing of virtual garments was made using the simulation system CLO 3D. Different variations of virtual workmanships were shown, with their advantages, disadvantages, optical differences, and applicability. The production guidelines were created for basic garments and then for more challenging products such as winter jackets and bras. It is time consuming to create production guidelines, but the effort is worth it. It enables users and companies to achieve reliable and consistent simulation results.

The popularization of new technologies, such as 3D Simulation programs is an important factor to help speed up the development chain and save resources within the clothing industry. Proper fit to help size conformity, company loyalty and to decrease return rates is becoming an increasing requirement. This study aimed to investigate the effectiveness of 3D virtual fitting technologies of garments and analyzing the similarities as well as differences between real and virtual fit. Within this study different garments on the upper and lower body were analyzed and compared, by evaluating the whole development chain. The first step was to scan different test subjects with individual body shapes and figure types in the Vitus Smart XXL 3D Scanner and to generate according avatars for each size analyzed (a small, middle and large size). Then patterns were created for each garment and simulated virtually on the according avatar within three different 3D Simulation programs: CLO 3D, Vidya Assyst, and V-Stitcher Browzwear. These same garments were also sewn physically and fitted on the same test subjects to evaluate the similarities and differences between the virtual fit and physical fit. The analysis showed that for both the virtual fit testing and physical fit testing in-depth fit knowledge was essential to evaluate the results properly. Sufficient ease and proper fit was given virtually in the example of this male jacket German size 50, which was simulated in CLO 3D. However, the ease was not sufficient enough when creating the physical garment and could not be closed, or small movements such as lifting arms could not be made, resulting in a too tight real jacket. Folds and tension will show on the physical garment, but not within the 3D software. An important insight was to simulate with base layers, as it would be worn in real life, since without base layers the fit was not shown accurately within the 3D system. The investigations revealed that there are various factors that affect the success of virtual fit testing, This is an important research effort for the clothing industry, as it demonstrates which parameters need to be taken into consideration for a realistic and accurate virtual fit testing with the help of 3D technologies.

3D garment simulation is in the market for many years.In the beginning, most users found it hard to transfer their traditional analogue processes into the digital world [1].Yet, the technical enhancements of the simulation software fastened the readiness of the companies to implement systems in their product development cycle.Through the use of 3D garment simulation systems, resources can be saved and development times shortened [2][3][4].In addition, garment simulation can already be used to check the fit in a digital environment.By being able to check design and fit early in the process, more time can be invested in their development.A complete simulation is important for a quality fit.In addition to the pattern, this also includes the material parameters and a digital fitting tape.For reliable fitting tests an avatar has to fulfil various requirements.This also includes the level of detail (LOD) of the avatar to perform valid quality assessments.It is assumed that the LOD has a major impact on fitting results [4] Yet, creating high level avatars require time and comprehensive knowledge of 3D workflows.

In the last decade, the technological development of 3D garment simulation software has accelerated and garment simulation is widely discussed in industry and research. The advantages are significant, fewer physically sewn prototypes are needed. This saves time and money. It allows faster, better communication, which leads to quicker decisions within the development process. Fit models can be made available in all sizes and simulation across the whole size range is possible. Yet, the quality of the garment fit evaluation depends on accurately sized avatars and realistic fabric drape combined with a deep understanding of the simulation processes of the systems as well as clothing technology know-how. But software’s default avatars show limitations. For example, moving limbs show unrealistic “water hose effects” of joints where the tube-like arm or leg is simply folded. This study’s aim was to compare software-provided avatars three-dimensionally with 4D scans of real test persons. In addition, a new process for avatar generation was developed outside of the 3D garment simulation software. The results are parametric and rigged avatars to be utilized across the programs.

Fit in motion is of vital importance for sports-and workwear.Ashdown et al. (2011) point out that valid fitting tests need to be performed in typical sports or work related movements.[1] Only when the garment fits well in specific positions it can protect the user without restriction of the range of motion.Therefore, a comprehensive knowledge about dynamic anthropometry is needed.Bye (2006) [2] and Bougourd (2014) [3] believe in this as an important research field within clothing technology.In the past sizing surveys issuing the change of body dimensions due to movement could only be performed with traditional anthropometric devices.This was time consuming and therefore often uncomfortable for the participants.Through 3D scanning technology sound implementation of big analysis in dynamic anthropometry are possible.[4] Consequently, several research projects were conducted investigating everyday, work and sport related static poses.Significant body surface and measurement changes due to movement were found.[5-7] 3D scanning is not only a reliable method to capture body measurements but is utilized for garment fit investigations as well.[1,[8][9][10][11] So far, research was performed in regard of static poses.The further development from 3D to 4D changed the conditions.The interaction between garment und body in motion can be investigated with 4D scanning technology comprehensively.In a basic research project, photogrammetry scanner "little Alice" was utilized for fit in motion assessment."Little Alice" consists of 38 digital SLR cameras.Like every digital camera, it is possible to perform serial recording.This enables scanning in motion or 4D scanning.Three frames per second are recorded and moderate movements can be captured.In this study 25 male test subjects aged between 22-65 years ( ∅ 37.86 ±12) with an average body height of ∅ 181.49cm (±6) and chest girths 96-120 cm (German sizes 48-60) participated.They were all either athletes or physical workers.Supporting companies provided work-and sportswear clothing systems (jackets and pants).Three movements were scanned with up to seven frames.Test subjects were scanned in static poses and dynamic sequences, both in underwear and in work-or sportswear.The reference scans were performed in Vitus Smart XXL system.In addition, each scan or sequence was captured twice.4D scanning technology can be utilized to investigate fit in motion, assessment matrices were developed, air gaps and penetration areas were identified to compare different products.4D scans are an excellent basis for comprehensive analysis of body-garment interaction.The limitation of the study is the focus on male subjects.More studies should be performed regarding female subjects, different movements and different garments.

The market shares of plus sizes have gained significant importance in recent years. Although there is a need for well-fitting plus-size clothes, no reliable anthropometric data have thus far been available in Germany. Human measurements are the foundation for creating well-fitting and functional clothing and are central to the communication of garment size. For that reason, two sizing surveys were carried out using 3-D scanner technology to scan plus-size women and men and to analyze their body measurements and shapes. Based on the survey results, new sizing charts for womens wear and menswear with plus sizes were developed, including target group-specific measurements. The specific body shapes were analyzed, and so-called morphotypes were defined to differentiate between the various body shape characteristics of the plus-size target group. In addition, virtual 3-D body models were generated, and optimized basic patterns for pants and jackets were developed based on 3-D body models.

Fitting test in movement are an important issue not only in work and sports wear since garment should not restrict the range of motion. Therefore, dynamic anthropometry is a major research topic. Until now, only static position could be captured. Still, it is not known how body geometry changes in dynamic movement. In IGF project “Mobilityrestrictions” photogrammetry scanner “Little Alice” was investigated regarding 4D. It enables serial recording in seconds. The aim of the research project was beside other to identify differences between static and dynamic body measurements. Scanner “Little Alice” has never been utilized for body form analysis. Therefore, a basic research was performed. Several parameters were examined by iterative tests before scan procedure was defined. Three work or sport related movements were defined and compared to standard position: Biceps curl, leg flex and squat. The changes in scan surface were investigated by a three-step analysis: body measurements, cross sections and a 3D analysis. Scan procedure was performed by six test subjects German sizes 50 and 58, age group 25 – 55 years. The results show that photogrammetry can be utilized to investigate body geometry changes due to movement. Body surface deviations have been investigated. Thus, not in all cases there were differences between static and dynamic scans. Yet, body geometry alters. 4D scanning enables comprehensive analysis of body geometry changes due to movement. Body measurement and surface alterations can be visualized and quantified. Scans of motions may be used to validate 3D simulation avatars.

Body measurements, on which the development of clothing is based, change during movement. This influences the fit and ergonomic wearing comfort of clothing. With 3-D scanners the movement-related variation in body measurements can be studied, and the range of motion (ROM) of the human body can be described by so-called functional measures, "movement-oriented body measurements." A project has been initiated to research the movement-related change in body measurements in 93 subjects. The results show the average and the maximum measurement changes of the subjects in 10 postures and thus lay an important foundation for the development of clothes with high ergonomic wearing comfort. If the change in body surface during typical practical movement is ignored in the development of clothing, mobility restrictions may occur. The restriction of the range of movement can also be analyzed with 3-D scanners. However, static 3-D recording is only a replication of reality. The technical evolution from 3-D to 4-D (scanning in movement) allows the research of dynamic movements in the medium term.

The fit, comfort and the fashionable look of professional clothing as well as personal protective equipment (PPE) gain in importance. In addition to the protection and functional properties, the working and protective clothing demands perfect fit for optimal freedom of movement. The balancing act between freedom of movement, functionality and fashion-oriented fit of different target groups offers new complex challenges to manufacturer of professional clothing. Anthropometric data are used for clothing design, PPE, workstations and man-machine interfaces. Therefore two different measuring systems are used: size charts and ergonomic standards. Size charts are the base for clothing industry, however size charts cannot cover the functional requirements of professional clothing and PPE. The body measurements during exercising movements (standing, sitting, kneeling, etc.) deviate significantly from the measurements of size charts, which are measured in standard standing position. The motion-related variability of body dimensions is partly reflected in ergonomic standards. The ergonomic standards describe different modes of motion, e.g. arm range, without any size references, only percentiles type. A measurement standard which considers size reference as well as function-oriented motion of the body at work, is currently not available.In the project

Fashion garments sculpt the human body according to the up-to-date style.Foundation garments used to be out of whalebone and stiff materials.Nowadays thin and light shapewear aims to smooth obvious subcutaneous fat.Material, pattern, fit and formability of the body tissue influence the effect of shapewear.Thus, it is not known how much or even if shaping garments effect the body form.Moreover, there is a lack of standardized methods to analyze shaping effects of foundation garments.Up to now research focused two paths to analyze the functionality of shaping garment.First was to quantify the pressure applied, second was to measure the body changes achieved by the products.Governmental funded research project "Shaping Effects" aims to combine and pursue the research approaches.Project term is two years starting from April 2017.Therefore, most of the work is ongoing.The following presents preliminary results.41 shapewear products were tested with HOSY apparatus to measure pressure gradient.PicoPress device was utilized to determine pressure between garment and manikin or human body respectively.3D-analysis based on before and after scans was performed to measure changes in body geometry.Two test subjects tested shaping garments so far.Test methods were processed successfully.First results underlined the influence of material properties, body geometry and body tissue on shaping effects.

"One-size-fits-all’ is definitely not a good approach to helmet design, especially for situations with the significant risk of head injury such as sports and industrial workplaces. Function of helmets is only given with perfect fit. But the complex geometry of heads was insufficiently defined by traditional measurement which captures length, width and circumference only as numerical values. Therefore, no head shape information was available so far. In contrast, 3D scanning-technology provides an innovative approach for analyzing head measurements and shapes. Scientific analyses show remarkable variations in head shapes of humans within the same head circumference. Despite the real need for head protection systems, no reliable anthropometric German head data of women, men and children was available so far. The results of the Hohenstein R&D project „Textile-based head protection systems“(IGF 16976 N) close this information gap. To collect exact three dimensional head data a specific scanning process was installed, heads of men, women and children were scanned and a database of 3D scan head data was created. Statistic evaluations as well as 3D shape analysis were conducted. Market share tables and virtual 3D shape models representing realistic head shapes of German population were generated and new innovative virtual 3D analysis methods for proving fit and ergonomic comfort were developed. 3D scanning-technology provides an innovative approach for the optimization of helmets in consideration of fit, functionality and design. In summary, the study results provide fundamental guidelines for helmet optimization in consideration of fit, functionality and design.

As part of the R&D project "Plus sizes men" (IGF 17460 N) the special body shapes of men with body volumes and circumferences above standard garment sizes have been analyzed.New sizing charts for men with plus sizes have been generated, specific body shapes were identified and optimized basic patterns have been developed. Lack of physical data for developing clothing in plus sizes:The demand from retailers for plus size fashion is continuously growing.The market share of large menswear on the market has increased significantly.Although there is a need for well-fitting plus size clothes, no reliable anthropometric data was available so far.For that reason, the "Plus sizes men" research project was initiated in order to develop reliable sizing charts for men XL plus.A sizing survey was carried out using 3D scanner technology.Within the project, 664 men with chest circumferences of 120 cm up to 175 cm were scanned.New sizing chart for menswear, sizes 60 to 78: On basis of the survey results, new sizing charts for menswear were developed covering the German sizes 60 to 78 and describing five figure types as well as five body height types.The sizing chart "Plus sizes men" is linked to the SizeGERMANY sizing system, in order to achieve the widest possible acceptance on the market.Furthermore, time target group specific measurements have been measured and analyzed.Definition of morphotypes: Body shape variety of big sizes is huge.Therefore, shape analyses were performed and morphotypes, e.g.specific abdominal forms of men, were defined.3D body models as basis for fit mannequins, 3D pattern construction and simulation: On the basis of the new body measurements, virtual 3D body models were generated.These 3D models represent target group specific average body shapes, like the stomach shape, for individual sizes.Optimized basic patterns based on 3D scan data: Optimized basic patterns for trousers and jackets were developed based on the 3D body models.These 3D models -available as polygon mesh -have to be converted into 3D NURBS planes to be flattened.After flattening, optimized pattern geometry can be reproduced.By translating 3D body geometric information into 2D pattern, the fit can be significantly improved.

As results of different measurement campaigns with 3D Body scanners, additional to the body measurements, the 3D scan data includes very valuable possibilities of utilisation for garment development and footwear design.Since 1999 a large database of individual 3D body and leg scans of female and male persons aged from 6 to 80 years are available at the Hohenstein Institute.This 3D scan data was the fundamental basis for several research projects.The data was used to develop body measurement tables for garments and foot wear, to generate average virtual body models and to extract geometrical body information for optimisation of garment pattern construction.