Background: Acellular dermal matrices (ADM), used in 60% of immediate implant-based breast reconstructions, are associated with reduced rates of capsular contracture, however the mechanism of this is unknown.

Objective: The goal of any topical formulation is efficient transdermal delivery of its active components. However, delivery of compounds can be problematic with penetration through tough layers of fibrotic dermal scar tissue. Approach: We propose a new approach combining high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and Raman spectroscopy (RS) using a topical of unknown composition against a well-known antiscar topical (as control). Results: Positive detection of compounds within the treatment topical using both techniques was validated with mass spectrometry. RS detected conformational structural changes; the 1,655/1,446 cm-1 ratio estimating collagen content significantly decreased (p < 0.05) over weeks 4, 12, and 16 compared with day 0. The amide I band, known to represent collagen and protein in skin, shifted from 1,667 to 1,656 cm-1, which may represent a change from β-sheets in elastin to α-helices in collagen. Confirmatory elastin immunohistochemistry decreased compared with day 0, conversely the collagen I/III ratio increased in the same samples by week 12 (p < 0.05, and p < 0.0001, respectively), in keeping with normal scar formation. Optical coherence tomography attenuation coefficient representing collagen deposition was significantly decreased at week 4 compared with day 0 and increased at week 16 (p < 0.05). Innovation: This study provides a platform for further research on the simultaneous evaluation of the effects of compounds in cutaneous scarring by RS and HPLC, and identifies a role for RS in the therapeutic evaluation and theranostic management of skin scarring. Conclusions: RS can provide noninvasive information on the effects of topicals on scar pathogenesis and structural composition, validated by other analytical techniques.

Topical antiaging products are often a first-line intervention to counter visible signs of facial photoaging, aiming for sustained cosmetic improvement. However, prolonged application of a single active topical compound was observed clinically to lead to a plateau effect in improving facial photoaging. In view of this, we set out to reduce this effect systematically using a multi-tiered approach with laboratory evidence and clinical trials. The objective of the study was to evaluate the effects of active topical ingredients applied either alone, in combination, or in a rotational manner on modulation of facial photoaging. The study methodology included in vitro, organotypic, and ex vivo skin explants; in vivo biopsy study; as well as clinical trials. We demonstrate for the first time that a pair of known antiaging ingredients applied rotationally, on human dermal fibroblasts, maximized pro-collagen I production. Indeed, rotational treatment with retinol and phytol/glycolic acid (PGA) resulted in better efficacy than application of each active ingredient alone as shown by explants and in vivo biopsy study, with penetration of active ingredients confirmed by Raman spectroscopy. Furthermore, two split-face, randomized, double-blinded clinical trials were conducted, one for 12 months to compare treated vs. untreated and the other for 6 months followed by a 2-month regression to compare treated vs. commercially marketed products. In both studies, rotational regimen showed superior results to its matching comparison as assessed by clinical grading and image analysis of crow's feet wrinkles. In conclusion, rotational regimen using retinol and PGA is effective in treating facial photoaging signs with long-lasting benefits.

Background: A novel topical anti-aging treatment that rotates weekly application of phytol and retinol was previously shown to deliver progressive and sustained benefit over time. Based on in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo results the efficacy was related to statistically significant increase in epidermal turnover and ECM production versus continuous active application, suggesting superiority of this treatment over standard cosmetic regimen.