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Janssen first highlighted the necessity of truly coupling ocean waves with the atmosphere and the oceans, and critically contributed to understanding the role of surface waves in momentum and energy transfer across the air-sea interface. Most importantly, he incorporated his fundamental research findings into a more general forecasting framework. His fundamental papers on the momentum transfer from wind to waves provided the parametric form of the wind input source term which is used currently in most wind wave forecast models around the world in both research and operations, including those at the leading operational centres. Janssen offered a theory for rogue waves in the ocean and took it all the way to the practical implementation, thus contributing to practical applications of wind wave theory. His contributions to wind wave physics are also critical for parameterisation of air-sea gas and particles exchanges and ocean biogeochemistry.
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semanticscholar(2021)
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Saleh Abdalla,Peter Janssen
Satellite Altimetry over Oceans and Land Surfacespp.381-426, (2017)
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