Rationale: Gut microbiota affects other organs, such as the skin. Modulation through dietary modification, i.e., ingestion of probiotics, highlights the gut-skin axis. Kefir, a food with probiotic characteristics, is associated with health benefits. Atopic Dermatitis (AD), a chronic inflammatory skin disease, is associated to both skin barrier dysfunction and intestinal dysbiosis. This study aimed to assess the potential relationship between the ingestion of kefir on both the skin barrier function and gastrointestinal (GI) symptoms, of healthy skin (HS) and AD individuals. Methods: Study approved by local ethics committee (Nº1/2018). All participants gave their informed consent. AD group (n = 19), mean age 31.7 ± 11.9 years, HS group (n = 33), mean age 27.0 ± 10.1 years. Intervention consisted of the daily consumption of kefir for 8 weeks. Control groups did not consume kefir. Severity of AD was assessed by the Scoring Atopic Dermatitis Severity Index (SCORAD). GI symptoms were self-reported. Results: Intervention was simultaneously associated with a significant skin improvement on both HS (TEWL and hydration, p=0.018 and p=0.034, respectively) and AD (TEWL, hydration and AD severity (p<0.001, p=0.001 and p<0.001, respectively), also GI symptoms, constipation and abdominal distension improved (HS, p=0.003 and p<0.001, respectively; AD, p=0.033 and p=0.040, respectively). In AD, both TEWL and hydration improvement correlated with the decrease of AD severity (rho=0.532, p=0.023 and rho=0.766, p<0.001, respectively). Intervention was associated with constipation and abdominal distension improvement (OR=32.2, p=0.003 and OR=30.3, p<0.001, respectively). Conclusion: This study identified a beneficial effect of kefir intake at the skin level, with GI symptoms improvement. This was the first human, in vivo study to assess the impact of kefir intake on AD skin, beyond severity. It opens the possibility to continuing the research on the effect of kefir as a gut-skin axis modulator. Disclosure of Interest: None declared

Plectranthus is a well-known genus belonging to the Lamiaceae family and is mainly distributed in tropical areas of the globe. Furthermore, Plectranthus species are particularly rich in phenolic compounds and abietane-type diterpenes, such as royleanones, widely used in traditional medicine against a vast range of diseases, including skin disorders and cancer. In order to study the phytochemical composition and the biological activity of P. ecklonii Benth., ultrasound-assisted extractions were carried out using methanol and acetone as solvents. It is known from the literature data that phenolic compounds are predominant in the methanol extracts, while the phytochemical analysis of the acetone extracts from our research group evidenced abietanes as the most frequently occurring secondary metabolites. Methanol extracts were screened to assay their potential bioactivity as antimicrobials, antioxidants, and on skin-related enzymes, as well as their general toxicity. The results showed only a moderate effect against bacteria, but a very promising antioxidant activity, and no relevant general toxicity. High tyrosinase inhibition was observed, together with an excellent inhibitory activity on collagenase, making the methanolic extract a promising raw material to be used for the development of dermo-cosmetic formulations, especially those with antiaging activity. Fractionation and further purification were carried out on the acetone extracts, highlighting a significant cytotoxic activity, mainly due to the presence of diterpenes, with an observed IC50 in the low-micromolar range. Considering the potential applications for internal and topical uses, further studies are currently ongoing on both the extracts to investigate other relevant biological activities and ascertain their safety.

There is a growing trend for novel cosmetic products based on natural ingredients to improve the biocompatibility of formulations. The Hermetia illucens – Black soldier fly (BSF) – larvae biomass has promising applications as a source of value-added products to be used in health and cosmetic products due to its high content in mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids (mainly lauric acid) [1].

Cosmetic treatments aim at improving skin appearance through vehicles of good sensory properties. Those vehicles are mainly emulsions and gels designed to deliver safe and effective compounds to skin. Creams and serums are widely used to achieve these goals, but recently a new type of formulation known as organogels triggered scientific attention, particularly in the design of both topical and cosmetic formulations. It has been established that the lipophilic nature of organogels makes it an excellent candidate for the delivery of cosmetic molecules through skin. In this review, we discuss the properties and characteristics of organogels and present the advantages of the application of these systems in cosmetics.

O tratamento da micose do aparelho ungueal permanece um desafio nos dias de hoje. O foco infecioso encontra-se retido numa estrutura anatómica específica onde não se consegue por vezes uma resolução permanente, o que significa que a onicomicose se torna frequentemente uma condição crónica que retoma o estado ativo no intervalo de vários anos. A prioridade nos recentes desenvolvimentos da farmacoterapia da onicomicose foi atribuída à monoterapia tópica com o intuito da sua utilização em doentes que não toleram a medicação oral ou preferem um fármaco tópico e, com a vantagem adicional, de combiná-los com fármacos orais e/ou dispositivos médicos para expandir as possibilidades de tratamento atuais. Esta revisão engloba as opções terapêuticas da onicomicose no status quo. Dois novos fármacos tópicos, efinaconazol e tavaborol, foram aprovados no ano 2014 pela entidade reguladora competente Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

Background/ purpose: Human skin anisotropy is difficult to quantify. The Cutiscan((R)), is allegedly, the first biometrical system to provide information on the elastic and viscoelastic properties, as well as on anisotropy and directionality of the human skin in vivo. Thus, this study aims to contribute to characterize this new device and its applicability, and to compare its behavior with two other well-known devices-the Cutometer((R)) and the Reviscometer((R)).Methods: Measurements were conducted with each device in three different anatomical sites (forehead, forearm and leg) of 20 female volunteers engaged after informed consent. The participants in the study were aged 19-73 years (mean age 37 +/- 18.7 years old), and were divided in two groups (n = 10), based on their age Group I, mean age 22 +/- 1.3 years; Group II, mean age 52 +/- 13.7 years.Results: All devices were useful tools to explore the anatomical and the age dependant changes in biomechanical terms, showing different discriminative capacities. Interesting correlations were established between the variables provided by the equipment.Conclusion: The Cutiscan((R)) descriptors delivered excellent relationships with those from Cutometer((R)) and Reviscometer((R)), while providing more detailed information about skin anisotropy through a full 360 degrees analysis.

OBJECTIVE: Green coffee oil (GCO) has been used in cosmetic formulations due to its emollient and anti-ageing properties. However, there are insufficient studies about its safety when applied in cosmetic formulations.METHODS: Cytotoxicity of GCO and of formulations containing 2.5-15% of GCO was evaluated by the MTT reduction assay, in human keratinocytes. Formulations containing 15% of GCO and the vehicle were applied under in use conditions in the volar forearm of human volunteers during 3days. Transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum water content and erythema index were evaluated each 24h using biophysical techniques. The same formulations were probed for skin tolerance through a patch test.RESULTS: Neither pure GCO nor its formulations showed cytotoxic effects in concentrations up to 100g mL(-1). Transepidermal water loss values showed a slight reduction when the formulation containing GCO was applied. Stratum corneum water content and erythema index did not show significant differences, as the results observed in the first day of the study were maintained throughout 3days. None of the volunteers display any reaction after using an occlusive patch.CONCLUSION: The results obtained in the study indicate that GCO seems to be safe for topical applications and showed good skin compatibility under the experimental conditions of the study.

If J is a finite-dimensional nilpotent algebra over a finite field k, the algebra group P=1+J admits a (standard) supercharacter theory as defined in [16]. If J is endowed with an involution σ, then σ naturally defines a group automorphism of P=1+J, and we may consider the fixed point subgroup CP(σ)={x∈P:σ(x)=x−1}. Assuming that k has odd characteristic p, we use the standard supercharacter theory for P to construct a supercharacter theory for CP(σ). In particular, we obtain a supercharacter theory for the Sylow p-subgroups of the finite classical groups of Lie type, and thus extend in a uniform way the construction given by André and Neto in [7], [8] for the special case of the symplectic and orthogonal groups.

Laurus novocanariensis is an endemic plant from the Madeira Island forest that derives a fatty oil, with a strong spicy odour, from its berries that has been used for centuries in traditional medicine to treat skin ailments. This work aimed to investigate the effect of the application of both the oil and its essential oil on normal skin, to assess their safety and potential benefits. Diffusion studies with Franz cells using human epidermal membranes were conducted. The steady-state fluxes of two model molecules through untreated skin were compared with those obtained after a 2-h pre-treatment with either the oil or the essential oil. Additionally, eleven volunteers participated in the in vivo study that was conducted on the forearm and involved daily application of the oil for 5 days. Measurements were performed every day in the treated site with bioengineering methods that measure erythema, irritation and loss of barrier function. Slightly higher steady-state fluxes were observed for both the lipophilic and the hydrophilic molecule when the epidermal membranes were pre-treated. Nevertheless, such differences had no statistical significance, which seems to confirm that neither the oil nor the essential oil impaired the epidermal barrier. Results collected with the Chromameter, the Laser Doppler Flowmeter and the visual scoring are in agreement with those established in the in vitro study. They indicate that the repeated application of the oil did not cause erythema, because the results observed in the first day of the study were maintained throughout the week. Application of the oil did not affect the skin barrier function, because the transepidermal water loss remained constant throughout the study. The stratum corneum hydration was slightly reduced on days 4 and 5. This work shows that both the oil and the essential oil were well tolerated by the skin and did not cause significant barrier impairment or irritation.

__________________________________________________________________________________ Abstract This paper reviews a methodology based on mathematical modelling of data of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after conducting a plastic occlusion stress test (POST), to assess the hydric skin dynamic by kinetic parameters. Although simple to implement, this method is time-consuming, since it normally involves collecting data for at least 30 minutes. This research is aimed at optimizing the protocol by reducing the total time of the experiment by collecting more points during the initial stage. It was possible to significantly reduce analysis time, which is advantageous both for researchers and for volunteers since, on the one hand, there is a reduction in the cost of research, and on the other hand it ensures the comfort of the study participants.

The quantitative assessment of xerosis has been mainly based on the superficial and instantaneous measurements of skin capacitance and transepidermal water loss, or in subjective scoring systems. Modelling the transepidermal water loss curves obtained after occlusion is a versatile methodology to assess the stratum corneum water holding-capacity. On the other hand, laser Doppler velocimetry has often been employed to study the vasodilatory effect of nicotinates on the cutaneous microcirculation and investigate the penetration enhancing/retarding potential of permeants. Since dry skin presents alterations in the water accumulation dynamics and an impaired barrier function , the previous methodologies can potentially be employed in the study of xerosis. This work aims to test the ability of the two dynamic tests to quantitatively assess differences between normal and dry skin. Twenty volunteers participated in this study. Volunteers were submitted to a plastic occlusion stress test, after which the TEWL curves were recorded. A mathematical model was adjusted to the data points, and the evaporation half-life and dynamic water mass were calculated. In the second part of the study, a solution of methyl nicotinate was applied to the skin and the subsequent increase in the blood flow was measured. Time for onset and maximum response were determined. Results indicate that in normal skin, the decrease in TEWL after occlusion is rapid and pronounced, but when dry skin is occluded, TEWL decreases at a slower pace. These results are translated in a higher t 1/2evap for dry skin, almost double of that obtained in normal skin. Studies with methyl nicotinate reveal differences between the onset of action observed in the two skin types. These findings confirm that the dynamic methodologies employed can detect differences in the water dynamics and barrier function of normal and dry skin. This suggests their potential application to the area of efficacy testing of products that are used to re-establish skin hydration.

The objective of the present study was to test the discriminative capacity of the mathematical modeling of the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) curves that result from a plastic occlusion stress test (POST) to variations in the skin barrier - insults inflicted to the skin or differences in two distinct anatomical regions. This study was exclusively performed in the arm. On the first part of the work, three different insults to the skin barrier were assessed: tape stripping, lipid extraction with ether : acetone, and skin-surface biopsy. Anatomical differences were studied in the mid-forearm and in the wrist. All sites were submitted to a POST, after which the desorption curves were recorded. The mathematical model was adjusted to the TEWL data points. Results indicate differences in the parameters obtained in the control and treated sites, which suggests differences in the water dynamics after the damage was inflicted and shows that the method is valid for the objectives proposed. There were also significant differences in the parameters obtained in the wrist and in the volar forearm, which indicates that the method is also sensitive to variations in skin histology and anatomy.

SynopsisThe measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) has been established as one of the main parameters in the assessment of skin barrier function. One of the most widely employed devices to measure TEWL is the Tewameter®. Courage and Khazaka launched the TM300 in 2003 and successfully eliminated some of the limitations of the previous model. In the more recent device, the sensors inside the probe head can be pre‐heated to a temperature close to that of the skin, which considerably decreases sampling time. Additionally, the new technology of the probe does not require frequent and time‐consuming recalibration with different solutions. The main objective of this work was to perform a comparative assessment of the performance of the two different Tewameter® models. Fifteen volunteers were used in this study, which was conducted in the mid‐portion of the volar forearm. The standard measurements assessed differences in the basal values, time necessary for a stable value and coefficient of variability under normal and extreme conditions. The dynamic measurements performed were based on a plastic occlusion stress test (POST), involving the application of an occlusive patch for 24 h, after which the TEWL desorption curves were recorded. A mathematical model was adjusted to the data points using a specially modified simplex routine. Calculated parameters considered relevant to the study were t1/2evap (evaporation half‐life) and dynamic water mass (DWM). Results show slight differences in the performance the two models, which are nevertheless statistically significant. The TM300 seems to be more sensitive to differences in TEWL and presents a much quicker measurement capacity. These results confirm a marked improvement in the more recent Tewameter® model, when compared with its predecessor. The main conclusion of this work is that caution is advised when comparing results obtained with the two different models and that studies should be carried out entirely with the same device.