Millions of tons of spent coffee grounds (SCG) are produced worldwide and are typically discarded. However, SCG is a valuable source of bioactives, such as antioxidant phenolic compounds, making them potential ingredients in topical formulations. A sustainable and ecofriendly alternative for extracting these compounds from SCG is the use of Deep Eutectic Systems (DES). This study aimed to prepare extracts from SCG using a novel natural DES (NADES) for incorporation into sustainable topical formulations. Thirteen DES were produced using different natural metabolites and evaluated for their effectiveness in extracting bioactive compounds from SCG. Based on a cytotoxicity evaluation, five out of the 13 DES were selected to prepare SCG extracts. The total phenolic content of the extracts was determined, and two extracts obtained with DES containing proline were chosen for further studies. Finally, one extract and the corresponding DES, proline: glycerol: water (molar ratio 2:5:11.5), were selected based on cytotoxicity studies, stability assays, antioxidant capacity, elastase inhibition, and water content. This extract and the corresponding DES were then incorporated into oil-in-water emulsions developed according to the Eco-Label regulations. The characterization of these formulations showed they had suitable physicochemical, rheological, and droplet size properties and were stable over time, biocompatible, and capable of increasing skin hydration for at least 4 h. The emulsions resulted in semisolid emulsions, with shear thinning behavior, with the G ' superior to G '', and a stable bimodal distribution. The study suggests that DES are effective sustainable alternatives to conventional solvents to obtain SCG extracts with valuable properties for the cosmetic industry.

Striae distensae (SD), or stretch marks, are a common skin problem having a psychological impact and cosmetic concern, especially for women, in whom the prevalence is higher than in men. This study assessed the efficacy and safety of a single autologous micrografting treatment (AMT®) using Rigenera® technology for the management of SD. This single-centre study included 10 healthy women between 24 and 65 years of age, with Fitzpatrick–Goldman skin types I–IV, who had visible SD in glutes/thighs. Each subject acted as their own control. The treatment procedure (microneedling + AMT) and the control procedure (no treatment) were performed on contralateral sides of the glutes/thighs, targeting matched and paired SD. Microneedling was carried out using Dermapen®, equipped with 32 needle heads set at 1.5 mm needle length. The AMT procedure involved extracting biopsies from the mastoid hair zone with a 2.5-mm dermal punch, followed by disaggregation of the biopsies in a physiological saline solution using the Rigeneracons. The disaggregated micrografts were then intradermally injected using 30G 4-mm needles, maintaining a distance of 1 cm between injection points, covering the entire marked treatment region. In the treated area, at 3 months post-procedure compared to pre-procedure, the following changes were observed, all with statistical significance (P ≤ 0.05): (a) significant reductions in skin roughness (Ra, − 15.9 Furthermore, for each of the aforementioned parameters, there was a significantly greater improvement observed with the AMT procedure compared with microneedling at 3 months (all P ≤ 0.05). The AMT procedure using Rigenera technology resulted in an noticeable improvement in the SD appearance after 3 months in healthy women. This was a study of the Autologous Micrografting Technology (AMT) procedure for management of SD. Striae distensae (SD) commonly known as stretch marks are visible linear scars on the skin arising from excessive stretching of the skin. They are a very common condition, especially in women, causing cosmetic concern and psychological discomfort. Ten healthy women with SD were included in the study and each subject acted as their own control. Matched and paired SD on contralateral sides of the glutes/thighs were identified for treatment and control. In the area identified for treatment, the skin was initially damaged by microneedling to enhance regeneration, followed by intradermal injection of disaggregated autologous micrografts. The micrografts for the AMT procedure were extracted from the mastoid hair zone and disaggregated in physiological saline solution using the Rigeneracons. In the control area, no treatment was performed. The efficacy of the AMT procedure was assessed at 1 and 3 months post-procedure using several validated methodologies. Three months after the AMT procedure, a significant increase was observed in skin hydration, elasticity, density, and thickness, as well as in hypodermis thickness and microcirculation maximum value compared with pre-procedure in the treated area. There also was a significant reduction in skin roughness, skin luminance, and blue-green color distribution at 3 months in the treated area. For each of these parameters, the improvement observed at 3 months was significantly higher with the AMT procedure compared with only microneedling. We showed that a single AMT procedure using Rigenera technology is useful in the management of SD.

Cosmetic industry remains a major focus of economic development in the 21st century, while consumer's demand for sustainability drives the search for new active natural ingredients and the development of green extractions techniques. The aim of this work is to obtain antioxidant-enriched extracts from two seaweeds found on the Portuguese shore, Sargassum muticum and Gelidium corneum using natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) to be used in cosmetic formulations. Extracts were obtained by maceration of powdered seaweeds with aqueous solutions (25 % (v/v) in water) of different NADES, L-lactic acid: fructose (5:1), L-lactic acid: glucose (5:1) and Llactic acid: sodium acetate (7:1). The resulting extracts were evaluated regarding their total phenolic content (TPC) using the Folin-Ciocalteu method and antioxidant capacity by the DPPH and FRAP assays. L-lactic acid: fructose (5:1) NADES yielded Sargassum muticum extracts with the highest phenolic content (2099 mg GAE/L) and the highest antioxidant activities (DPPH reduction of 27 %, FRAP 30 mu M FeSO4). Antimicrobial activity of the extracts over three microorganisms of the skin microbiota, the bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis and Cutibacterium acnes and the fungus Malassezia furfur, revealed no relevant antimicrobial effect, meaning that extracts did not affect the skin microbiota homeostasis. The extract with the highest cosmeceutical interest, S. muticum extract prepared using L-lactic acid: fructose (7:1), was incorporated into a topical O/W emulsion. Physical and rheology data of the cosmetic formulation ensure its quality and safety. Finally, compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy were evaluated in vivo, in human volunteers. The results show that NADES are a promising replacement of conventional solvents in the extraction of antioxidants from biomass and their use in topical formulations is safe.

Extrusion-based (EB)-3D printing (3DP) holds promise for personalizing pharmaceutical and cosmetic products, yet faces challenges in adjusting the printer settings, requiring robust optimization and characterization protocols. This study aims to develop a protocol based on rheological and texture analysis to characterize flow behaviour and optimize gelatin inks' printing settings. A gelatin-based ink with printable properties was developed and analyzed using a Kinexus Lab + Rheometer for gelation temperature and viscosity, and an in-house-built extrusion set-up for extrudability analysis. Rheological data suggested an optimal printing temperature of 39 ℃, while extrudability tests indicated 43 ℃, which the differences in viscosity can explain. Texture analysis revealed varying extrusion forces across nozzle sizes (25G, 27G, 30G). The rheological and texture data correlation underscores the protocol's utility in adjusting printing parameters. This integrated approach streamlines EB-3DP optimization, particularly in temperature and pressure adjustment and nozzle selection.

This work addresses the potential of the red seaweed Gelidium corneum as a source of bioactive ingredients for skin health and wellness in response to the growing awareness regarding the significance of sustainable strategies in developing new nature-based dermocosmetic products. Hydroalcoholic extracts from the dried biomass were subjected to sequential liquid-liquid partitions, affording five different fractions (F1-F5). Their cosmetic potential was assessed through a set of in vitro assays concerning their antioxidant, photoprotective, and healing properties. Additionally, their cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells and their capacity to induce inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells were also evaluated. As a proof-of-concept, O/W emulsions were prepared, and emulsion stability was assessed by optical microscopy, droplet size analysis, centrifugation tests, and rheology analysis. Furthermore, in vivo tests were conducted with the final formulation to assess its antioxidant capacity. At subtoxic concentrations, the most lipophilic fraction has provided photoprotection against UV light-induced photooxidation in HaCaT cells. This was conducted together with the aqueous fraction, which also displayed healing capacities. Regarding the physical and stability assays, the best performance was achieved with the formulation containing 1% aqueous extract, which exhibited water retention and antioxidant properties in the in vivo assay. In summary, Gelidium corneum displayed itself as a potential source of bioactive ingredients with multitarget properties for dermatological use.

Aerogels are materials with unique properties, among which are low density and thermal conductivity. They are also known for their exquisite biocompatibility and biodegradability. All these features make them attractive for biomedical applications, such as their potential use in photothermal therapy (PTT). This technique is, yet, still associated with undesirable effects on surrounding tissues which emphasizes the need to minimize the exposure of healthy regions. One way to do so relies on the use of materials able to block the radiation and the heat generated. Aerogels might be potentially useful for this purpose by acting as insulators. Silica- and pectin-based aerogels are reported as the best inorganic and organic thermal insulators, respectively; thus, the aim of this work relies on assessing the possibility of using these materials as light and thermal insulators and delimiters for PTT. Silica- and pectin-based aerogels were prepared and fully characterized. The thermal protection efficacy of the aerogels when irradiated with a near-infrared laser was assessed using phantoms and ex vivo grafts. Lastly, safety was assessed in human volunteers. Both types presented good textural properties and safe profiles. Moreover, thermal activation unveils the better performance of silica-based aerogels, confirming the potential of this material for PTT.

The by-products of olive oil industry are a major ecological issue due to their phenolic content, highly toxic organic load, and low pH. However, they can be recovered and reused, since their components have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotector properties. In this work, oil-in-water creams containing three different olive oil industry by-products extracts were produced without the use of organic solvents. First, the extracts were thoroughly characterized in vitro for cytotoxicity, inhibition of skin enzymes, and antioxidant and photoprotection capacities. Safety studies were then performed, including ocular and skin irritation tests, ecotoxicity evaluation, and in vivo Human Repeat Insult Patch Test. The results obtained in this initial characterization supported the incorporation of the extracts in the cream formulations. After preparation, the creams were characterized for their organoleptic, physicochemical, droplet size and rheological properties, and microbial contamination. The results showed that all formulations were semi-solid creams, with stable pH, compatible with the skin, without microbial contamination, and with the expected droplet size range. The rheological analysis showed shear-thinning behavior with yield stress, with the viscosity decreasing with increasing shear rate. The oscillatory results suggest that the creams have a strong network structure, being easily rubbed into the skin. Finally, compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy were evaluated in vivo, in human volunteers. No adverse reactions were observed after application of the formulations on skin and the cream with the highest concentrations of phenolic compounds showed the highest antioxidant efficiency. In conclusion, the results suggest that olive oil industry by-products extracts have valuable properties that favor their re-use in the cosmetic industry. The example presented here showed their successful incorporation into creams and their impact in these formulations' appearance, pH, and rheological performance, as well as their in vivo compatibility with skin and antioxidant efficiency.

Sambucus nigra L. (S. nigra) is a shrub widespread in Europe and western Asia, traditionally used in medicine, that has become popular in recent years as a potential source of a wide range of interesting bioactive compounds. The aim of the present work was to develop a topical S. nigra extract formulation based on ethosomes and thus to support its health claims with scientific evidence. S. nigra extract was prepared by an ultrasound-assisted method and then included in ethosomes. The ethosomes were analyzed in terms of their size, stability over time, morphology, entrapment capacity (EC), extract release profile, stability over time and several biological activities. The prepared ethosomes were indicated to be well defined, presenting sizes around 600 nm. The extract entrapment capacity in ethosomes was 73.9 ± 24.8%, with an interesting slow extract release profile over 24 h. The extract-loaded ethosomes presented collagenase inhibition activity and a very good skin compatibility after human application. This study demonstrates the potential use of S. nigra extract incorporated in ethosomes as a potential cosmeceutical ingredient and on further studies should be performed to better understand the impact of S. nigra compounds on skin care over the time.

Spreadability is one of the most important physicochemical properties of cosmetic products, according to the consumer. Thus, it is fundamental to develop strategies with the aim to improve the knowledge and predict the behavior of alternatives to synthetic emollients. The main goal of this research article was to correlate different physicochemical attributes, namely spreading value, apparent viscosity, density, saponification value, iodine value, peroxide value, acid value and melting range, with the spreading behavior of sustainable alternatives for petrolatum and dimethicone. The sensitivity and adequacy of each parameter were statistically analyzed, and the models were built by forward selection. The two adjusted and optimized models include viscosity and density as parameters and, in the petrolatum case, the model further includes the melting range, which was also validated as a significant predictor. Furthermore, it was also possible to compare the data obtained with the consumer's perception of the spreading behavior of the studied raw materials. A strong correlation was observed, suggesting that these tools mirror the consumer opinion. The application of these mathematical models is a valuable tool to assist the entire replacement process, which usually is a time-consuming procedure.

Naturally derived surfactants in hair care products are a trend in cosmetic technology. This study aimed to formulate and fully characterize the performance of shampoos with sugar-derived surfactants, namely, the alkyl polyglucosides decyl glucoside and coco-glucoside. In addition, different thickeners and conditioning ingredients were added to improve the formulation properties. A sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) formulation was used as control. Rheology, pH, foaming, contact angles on a keratin surface, and surface tensions were determined. The safety of the formulations was evaluated by in vitro cytotoxicity studies using the human keratinocyte HaCaT cell line and human retinal pigment epithelial cells ARPE-19. The efficacies were studied by in vitro hair combing force assays and in vivo sensorial analysis. The formulated sugar surfactant-based shampoos showed the following properties: (i) pH values higher than those of SLES (which were posteriorly lowered with lactic acid); (ii) higher foamability than SLES, and high wettability; (iii) Newtonian behavior and predominance of liquid state with a suitable viscosity; (iv) low cytotoxicity in both human keratinocytes and retinal cell lines (in contrast to SLES); (v) easier hair combing than SLES, when Polyquaternium-7 was used as conditioner; (vi) efficient and gentle hair washing; and (vii) favorable sensorial analysis confirming the previous washing properties. In conclusion, the sugar surfactants had a considerable impact in the properties of the shampoo formulations, in terms of both hair cleansing properties and efficacy, as demonstrated here. These favorable outcomes clearly support the use of these ingredients in shampoo formulation design.

Fragaria vesca L. (F. vesca), popularly known as wild strawberry, is a plant from the Rosaceae family, found in temperate and subtropical areas of the northern hemisphere. F. vesca leaves have been shown to have antiseptic, emollient, and dermatological protection properties, due to the presence of bioactive compounds, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, ellagitannins, and proanthocyanidins. In this study, a F. vesca extract was obtained by an optimized extraction process, and was characterized by HPLC, ROS scavenging activity, cytotoxicity assays in HaCaT cells, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity determination. The most active extract was then incorporated in a hydrogel with hydroxyethylcellulose at 2% (w/w), which was characterized at the physicochemical, stability, cytotoxicity, and ROS scavenging activity levels to evaluate its quality, safety, and efficacy. In vivo studies, human repeat insult patch testing, and an assay to determine their antioxidant efficacy, were also performed. The results showed that the Fragaria vesca extracts had antioxidant activity and that the F. vesca extract-based hydrogel exhibited cutaneous compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy, being stable, and suitable for topical application.

With the increasing debate on sustainability, there is a strong market trend to formulate more sustainable products for topical application. Several studies emphasize the potential applications of natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived ingredients, but comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives are lacking. This type of study is considered an excellent baseline and time-saving strategy for future studies. In addition, one of the main challenges of replacing ingredients by sustainable alternatives in topical vehicles is to maintain high-quality products. Thus, the main goal of this research study was to create a well-defined strategy supported by specific experimental data for the development of sustainable topical vehicles with high-quality standards. The study was designed to evaluate the effects of replacing conventional ingredients (e.g., hydrocarbons, silicones, and preservatives) by sustainable ones on the physical, chemical, and microbiological features of topical emulsions. Additionally, in vivo assessment studies were performed to evaluate the safety, biological efficacy, and sensorial aspects of the developed formulations. The results obtained showed that the replacement of ingredients by sustainable alternatives has an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural properties of the emulsions, mainly on their rheological behavior. However, using appropriate strategies for ingredient selection and rheological adjustment, it is possible to overcome some barriers created by the use of natural raw materials, thus developing appealing and high-quality sustainable topical vehicles.

The development of printable hydrogel inks for extrusion-based 3D printing is opening new possibilities to the production of new and/or improved pharmaceutical forms, specifically for topical application. Alginate and starch are natural polysaccharides that have been extensively exploited due to their biocompatibility, biodegradability, viscosity properties, low toxicity, and relatively low cost. This research work aimed to study the physicochemical and release kinetic effects of starch incorporation in alginate-based 3D hydrogel patches for topical delivery using a quality by design approach. The incorporation of a pregelatinized starch is also proposed as a way to improve the properties of the drug delivery system while maintaining the desired quality characteristics. Critical material attributes and process parameters were identified, and the sensitivity and adequacy of each parameter were statistically analyzed. The impact of alginate, starch, and CaCl2·2H2O amounts on relevant quality attributes was estimated crosswise. The amount of starch revealed a synergetic impact on porosity (p = 0.0021). An evident increase in the size and quantity of open pores were detected in the as printed patches as well as after crosslinking (15.6 ± 5.2 µm). In vitro drug release studies from the optimized alginate-starch 3D hydrogel patch, using the probe Rhodamine B, showed an initial high burst release, followed by a controlled release mechanism. The results obtained also showed that the viscoelastic properties, printing accuracy, gelation time, microstructure, and release rates can be modulated by varying the amount of starch added to the system. Furthermore, these results can be considered an excellent baseline for future drug release modulation strategies.

Summary Background During skin aging, a degeneration of connective tissue and decrease in hyaluronic acid polymers occur. Since platelet‐rich plasma ( PRP ) contains growth factors and various cytokines, it was hypothesized that it could play a role in fibroblast activation and type I collagen expression in human fibroblasts. Objectives This study was performed to assess the efficacy of autologous PRP injections for facial skin rejuvenation, measured by biometric instrumental evaluations and patient‐reported outcomes. Patients and Methods Patients signed an informed consent form. The EmCyte Pure PRP ® system technology was used to produce neutrophil‐poor Pure PRP . The efficacy of the procedures was assessed by biometric parameters, and a patient outcome a self‐assessment questionnaire on each visit and at 6‐month follow‐up. Results Eleven volunteers were included in the study, receiving 3 Pure PRP ® treatments. A significant decrease in brown spot counts and area ( P < 0.05) was seen after 3 months. Wrinkle count and volume were significantly reduced ( P < 0.05 for total wrinkle appearance). Skin firmness parameters were significantly improved. Skin redness was significantly improved after 169 days post‐therapy for both the nasolabial and malar areas. A decrease in SLEB thickness was already noted at 2 months after the first injection, with an increase in SLEB density ( P < 0.05 for both parameters), without affecting subcutaneous fat thickness. Self‐assessment at 6‐month follow‐up revealed an average satisfaction score of >90%. Conclusions A series of 3 Pure PRP injections at 6‐month follow‐up resulted in significant skin rejuvenation as demonstrated by biometric parameters and confirmed by patient self‐assessment score.

Quercus Suber Bark from Quercus suber L. is a natural, renewable and biodegradable biomaterial with multifunctional proprieties. In this study, we used it as solid particles to stabilize a Pickering emulsion. The main goal was to produce an optimized topical formulation using biocompatible organic particles as stabilizers of the emulsion instead of the common surfactants, whilst benefiting from Quercus suber L. proprieties. In this work, a Quality by Design (QbD) approach was successfully applied to the production of this emulsion. A screening design was conducted, identifying the critical variables of the formula and process, affecting the critical quality attributes of the emulsion (droplet size distribution). The optimization of the production was made through the establishment of the design space. The stability was also investigated during 30 days, demonstrating that Quercus Suber Bark-stabilized emulsions are stable since the droplet size distribution lowers. In vitro studies were performed to assess antioxidant and antiaging efficacy, which revealed that the formulation had indeed antioxidant proprieties. A physicochemical characterization demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning fluid, ideal for topical administration. The in vivo compatibility study confirmed that the final formulation is not skin irritant, being safe for human use. A sensorial analysis was also performed, using a simple sensory questionnaire, revealing very positive results. Thus, the use of Quercus Suber Bark particles as a multifunctional solid ingredient contributed to achieve a stable, effective and innovative Pickering emulsion with a meaningful synergistic protection against oxidative stress.

The use of mineral water for therapeutic purposes has varied from century to century and from country to country. Its effectiveness depends on the individual experiences of the population and their cultural traditions. Usually, the waters recommended for dermatological treatment are hot springs that contain sulfur or more recently, silicon. The mechanisms by which mineral waters actuate in dermatological disorders are still not clear but it is believed that they involve thermal, mechanical, chemical, immunologic, and anti-oxidant reactions and enzymatic activity. The aim of this study is to characterize the thermal waters of Monfortinho, one of the oldest Portuguese spas, their potential use for the preparation of dermatological formulations (creams), and their effectiveness on the treatment of skin disorders (psoriasis and eczema). To accomplish this, cream formulations with different contents of thermal water were developed. The formulations were characterized in terms of thermal water analysis and physicochemical properties and their effects were studied by skin biometrics in adults (mean age of 54.3 years old) through skin hydration evaluation and evaluated in clinical studies on 22 patients with psoriasis and eczema. The results showed that all the formulations improved the skin hydration and have beneficial effects in relieving the symptoms of psoriasis and other disorders, but no significant differences were observed when thermal water was used (compared to laboratory ultra-pure water).

The skin healing benefits of rice have been known for centuries. Rice (Oryza sativa) water is a food processing waste that can potentially be incorporated into cosmetic formulations. However, no scientific evidence supports their role in skincare products. The aim of this project is to design and develop a topical gel formulation containing rice water and to evaluate its biological properties, namely, the anti-aging and antioxidant rice water properties. Rice water was evaluated in terms of physico-chemical composition and in terms of in vitro biological antioxidant activity and elastase inhibitory effect. Rice water was incorporated into a hydrogel and the developed formulation was subjected to pharmacotechnical tests such as pH and viscosity. Biological and sensory effects were evaluated on a panel of 12 volunteers for 28 days. The safety evaluation study was performed on rice water gel, using the Human Repeat Insult Patch test protocol. Rice water presented in vitro biological antioxidant activity and elastase inhibitory effect. The gel formulation containing 96% rice water was biocompatible with the human skin and presented suitable cosmetic properties. Rice water should be thus considered as an anti-aging ingredient to be used as raw material for skincare applications.

The safety profile of the ingredients used in topical dosage forms and its evaluation is an issue of utmost importance. A suitable equilibrium between safety and efficacy is crucial before promoting a dermatological product. The aim of this work was to assess the safety and biological effects of starch-based vehicles (St-BV) used in such products. The hazard, exposure and dose-response assessment were used to characterize the risk of each ingredient. The EpiSkin™ assay and human repeat insult patch tests were performed to compare the theoretical safety assessment to in vitro and in vivo data. The efficacy of the St-BV was studied using biophysical measurements in human volunteers during 28 days, showing that all ingredients and their combinations were safe for the consumer. Tissue viability determined using the EpiSkin™ testing reached values between 84.0 ± 5.0% and 98.0 ± 8.6% after application of St-BV, which were considered as non-irritant to the skin. These observations were confirmed by the in vivo studies where the St-BV did not induce any sensitization on the volunteers, being safe for human use. Moreover, St-BV increased skin hydration and microcirculation, emerging as an attractive alternative to chemical raw materials.

As the personal care industry evolves, formulators are seeking innovative solutions for their formulations' needs, and for ingredients that can offer multiple functions within formulations. Considering that essential oils (EOs) may present a wide spectrum of biological activities, the composition, antimicrobial and antioxidant activity of Portuguese Thymbra capitata, Thymus caespititius and Myrtus communis EOs were assessed in order to evaluate them as preservatives and antioxidants in topical emulsions. The in vivo safety application of some emulsions was also tested. T. capitata EO was mainly constituted by carvacrol (73%), whereas -terpineol (27%), p-cymene (14%) and carvacrol (10%) dominated Th. caespititius EO, and 1,8-cineole (37%) was dominant in M. communis EO. The minimum inhibitory concentration of T. capitata, Th. caespititius and M. communis EOs was 0.4g/mL against C. albicans and ranged between 0.4 and 30.7g/mL against A. brasiliensis. Gram-positive bacteria were more susceptible to each EO than Gram-negative bacteria. T. capitata EO showed significantly higher antioxidant activity than Th. caespititius and M. communis EOs. EOs incorporated in emulsions showed preservative activity against all microorganisms tested and T. capitata EO emulsions showed powerful reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging effects. A safety evaluation study was performed with 0.10% and 0.01% T. capitata EO emulsions according to the Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT). All emulsions were considered safe for topical application. T. capitata, Th. caespititius and M. communis significantly improved the microbiological quality of the prepared emulsions and may constitute a powerful alternative to the current preservatives and antioxidants for use in topical formulations.

Donkey milk, allegedly used by Cleopatra, is a complex, traditional cosmetic ingredient composed of hydrating substances. In this work, donkey milk was mixed with pomegranate extract and an optimised blend of UV filters in a cosmetic O/W emulsion. The antiageing efficacy of this synergistic blend was assessed by imaging, biomechanical and electrometric methods on 32 volunteers, after 28 days of application. The wrinkle count decreased by 32.9% and the wrinkle length was reduced by 9.6%. Skin hydration increased by 11.4%, while skin firmness and elasticity increased by 9.6% and 16.1%, respectively. Furthermore, skin colour homogeneity was enhanced. Thus, this product was proven to have antiageing effects, both by preventing photoageing and by diminishing existing signs of ageing.