Skin metabolism is becoming a major consideration in the development of new cosmetic ingredients, skin being the first organ exposed to them. In order to replace limited samples of Excised human skin (EHS), in vitro engineered human skins have been developed. 3D models are daily used to develop and evaluate new cosmetic ingredients and have to be characterized and compared with EHS in terms of metabolic capabilities. This work presents the determination of apparent catalytic parameters (apparent Vmax, Km and the ratio Vmax/Km) in 3D models compared with EHS for cytochrome P450 dependent monooxygenase isoforms involved in drug metabolism, esterases, alcohol dehydrogenases, aldehyde dehydrogenases, peroxidases, glutathione S-transferases, N-acetyl transferases, uridinyl diphosphate glucuronyl transferases and sulfotransferases. Results show that all these enzymes involved in the metabolism of xenobiotics are expressed and functional in the EHS and 3D models. Also, the Vmax/Km ratios (estimating the intrinsic metabolic clearances) show that the metabolic abilities are the most often comparable between the skin models and EHS. These results indicate that the 3D models can substitute themselves for EHS to select cosmetic ingredients on the basis of their metabolism, efficacy or/and safety.

In the European Union animal testing has been eliminated for cosmetic ingredients while the US Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel may request data from animal studies. The use of read-across and predictive toxicology provides a path for filling data gaps without additional animal testing. The PEG cocamines are tertiary amines with an alkyl group derived from coconut fatty acids and two PEG chains of varying length. Toxicology data gaps for the PEG cocamines can be addressed by read-across based on structure-activity relationship using the framework described by Wu et al. (2010) for identifying suitable structural analogs. Data for structural analogs supports the conclusion that the PEG cocamines are non-genotoxic and not expected to exhibit systemic or developmental/reproductive toxicity with use in cosmetics. Due to lack of reliable dermal sensitization data for suitable analogs, this endpoint was addressed using predictive software (TIMES SS) as a first step (Laboratory of Mathematical Chemistry). The prediction for PEG cocamines was the same as that for PEGs, which have been concluded to not present a significant concern for dermal sensitization. This evaluation for PEG cocamines demonstrates the utility of read-across and predictive toxicology tools to assess the safety of cosmetic ingredients.

Skin function is not limited to a physical barrier. According to its total surface area, it is also considered as an extra-hepatic metabolizing organ. In vitro engineered human skins have been developed to replace limited ex vivo normal human skin samples (NHS). Thus, assessing and comparing skin models from SkinEthic [Episkin™, RHE™ and the full thickness model (FTM)] with NHS in terms of metabolic capability are essential. The apparent activities of main cutaneous isoforms of cytochrome P450-dependent monooxygenases (CYP1A1/1B1, 2B6/2C18/2E1, 3A5/3A7), esterase, glutathione-S-[(GST), A, M, P, T], N-acetyl-(NAT1), uridinyl-diphosphate glucuronyl-(UDPGT 1A family) and sulfo-(SULT1A1) transferases were determined using probe substrates. Mean activities indicative of CYP1A1/1B1 (expressed as pmol/mg protein/6 h) in RHE™ (2.8) and FTM (2.6) were very similar to NHS (3.0) while Episkin™ showed a higher activity (9.1). Activities of CYP3A5/3A7 in FTM (3.3) and Episkin™ (3.6) were similar to NHS (3.8) while activity in RHE™ (13.3) was higher. CYP2B6/2C18/2E1 activity was below LOQ (0.5) in all skin models and NHS. Comparable intrinsic metabolic clearances were measured between NHS and skin models for esterase, UDPGT, GST and NAT1 activities. SULT1A1 activity toward probe substrates was not detected in skin models and observed at the limit of detection in NHS. Weak cytochrome P450-dependent monooxygenases, high esterase and transferase activities suggested that NHS and skin models exhibited limited functionalization and much greater detoxification (hydrolytic and conjugating) capacities. These results demonstrate that skin models are similar to NHS in terms of metabolic functionality toward xenobiotics investigated and useful tools to assess both the local efficiency and safety of cosmetics.

A workshop sponsored by the Human Toxicology Project Consortium (HTPC), "Building Shared Experience to Advance Practical Application of Pathway-Based Toxicology: Liver Toxicity Mode-of-Action" brought together experts from a wide range of perspectives to inform the process of pathway development and to advance two prototype pathways initially developed by the European Commission Joint Research Center (JRC): liver-specific fibrosis and steatosis. The first half of the workshop focused on the theory and practice of pathway development; the second on liver disease and the two prototype pathways. Participants agreed pathway development is extremely useful for organizing information and found that focusing the theoretical discussion on a specific AOP is extremely helpful. In addition, it is important to include several perspectives during pathway development, including information specialists, pathologists, human health and environmental risk assessors, and chemical and product manufacturers, to ensure the biology is well captured and end use is considered.

Several human skin models employing primary cells and immortalized cell lines used as monocultures or combined to produce reconstituted 3D skin constructs have been developed. Furthermore, these models have been included in European genotoxicity and sensitization/irritation assay validation projects. In order to help interpret data, Cosmetics Europe (formerly COLIPA) facilitated research projects that measured a variety of defined phase I and II enzyme activities and created a complete proteomic profile of xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes (XMEs) in native human skin and compared them with data obtained from a number of in vitro models of human skin. Here, we have summarized our findings on the current knowledge of the metabolic capacity of native human skin and in vitro models and made an overall assessment of the metabolic capacity from gene expression, proteomic expression, and substrate metabolism data. The known low expression and function of phase I enzymes in native whole skin were reflected in the in vitro models. Some XMEs in whole skin were not detected in in vitro models and vice versa, and some major hepatic XMEs such as cytochrome P450-monooxygenases were absent or measured only at very low levels in the skin. Conversely, despite varying mRNA and protein levels of phase II enzymes, functional activity of glutathione S-transferases, N-acetyltransferase 1, and UDP-glucuronosyltransferases were all readily measurable in whole skin and in vitro skin models at activity levels similar to those measured in the liver. These projects have enabled a better understanding of the contribution of XMEs to toxicity endpoints.

Background: Episkin (TM) and full thickness model from Episkin (TM) (FTM) are human skin models obtained from in vitro growth of keratinocytes into the five typical layers of the epidermis. FTM is a full thickness reconstructed skin model that also contains fibroblasts seeded in a collagen matrix.Objectives: To assess whether enzymes involved in chemical detoxification are expressed in Episkin (TM) and FTM and how their levels compare with the human epidermis, dermis and total skin.Methods: Quantification of the mRNA expression levels of phases 1 and 2 metabolizing enzymes in cultured Episkin (TM) and FTM and human epidermis, dermis and total skin using Realtime PCR.Results: The data show that the expression profiles of 61 phases 1 and 2 metabolizing enzymes in Episkin (TM), FTM and epidermis are generally similar, with some exceptions. Cytochrome P450-dependent enzymes and flavin monooxygenases are expressed at low levels, while phase 2 metabolizing enzymes are expressed at much higher levels, especially, glutathione-S-transferase P1 (GSTP1) catechol-O-methyl transferase (COMT), steroid sulfotransferase (SULT2B1b), and N-acetyl transferase (NAT5). The present study also identifies the presence of many enzymes involved in cholesterol, arachidonic acid, leukotriene, prostaglandin, eicosatrienoic acids, and vitamin D3 metabolisms.Conclusion: The present data strongly suggest that Episkin (TM) and FTM represent reliable and valuable in vitro human skin models for studying the function of phases 1 and 2 metabolizing enzymes in xenobiotic metabolisms. They could be used to replace invasive methods or laboratory animals for skin experiments. (C) 2009 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Humans have been exposed to dialkyl ortho-phthalates for decades. Due to degradation the phthalate monoesters, responsible for the toxic effects, are additionally found in environmental media as well as food samples. Nevertheless, the toxicokinetic properties of the monoesters are not known. Therefore, metabolism of the phthalate monoesters mono-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (MEHP) and mono-n-butyl phthalate (MnBP) was studied in four male volunteers (23–58 years of age) after ingestion of a single dose of 50 μg/kg bw D4-MEHP or 10 μg/kg bw D4-MnBP. The main metabolites in urine were determined up to 46 h after administration.In the MEHP-study, more than 90% of each metabolite appeared in the urine within the first 22 h, and the average excreted amount of D4-MEHP and its four secondary metabolites was 62% of the administered dose. The highest value of 15% was observed for mono-2-ethyl-5-carboxy-pentyl phthalate (D4-5cx-MEPP). The mean elimination half-life of D4-MEHP was estimated to be 3.5 ± 1.4 h.In the MnBP-study, the total recovered values of D4-MnBP and its secondary metabolites ranged from 52% to 130%. The monoester itself, with a half-life of 1.9 ± 0.5 h, accounted for the majority of the ingested dose (92%), while the secondary metabolites D4-mono-3-hydroxy-n-butyl phthalate (D4-3OH-MnBP) and D4-3-carboxy-mono-propyl phthalate (D4-3cx-MPP) represented only 7.1% and 1.0% of the ingested dose, respectively.Overall, this study determined that the kinetics of the phthalate monoesters MEHP and MnBP after oral dosage are comparable to the properties of their diesters.

To understand the hapten-protein complex formation in the context of skin contact allergy to p-amino aromatic derivatives, 2,5-dimethyl-p-benzoquinonediimine was used as a model compound to study the reactivity of p-benzoquinonediimines, first oxidation intermediates of allergenic p-amino aromatic compounds, toward a model peptide containing naturally occurring and potential reactive amino acids. LC-MS analysis, together with electrospray ionization MS/MS, was used for the determination of amino acid selectivity by studying the chemical modi. cations induced on the peptide due to covalent binding of the p-benzoquinonediimine. Results reported in this paper indicated that 2,5-dimethyl-p-benzoquinonediimine reacted with the epsilon-NH2 group of lysine to first form a covalent adduct of the Schiff's base kind. Besides, an oxido-reduction process started that induced an oxidative deamination of lysine to form a peptidyl alpha-aminoadipic-delta-semialdehyde, by a mechanism similar to the one known for several enzymatic quinonoid co-factors, followed by an intramolecular cyclization of the peptide. From these results it could be concluded that lysine must be considered as an important amino acid for the hapten-protein complex formation in the case of p-benzoquinonediimines and that, in addition to direct covalent binding, further degradation of the peptide can be produced. (C) 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.