Focusing on an under-explored context, luxury retail operations, this study brings together justice and dignity theories to explore workplace-related issues, which are complex signs of the structural conditions of capitalism, in order to understand how operations are managed in luxury retail, how retail workers perceive the way they are treated and how they think their self-worth is threatened by unjust conditions. This study is an auto-ethnography and is co-written by an anonymous professional with 25+ years of luxury retail experience. Focusing on luxury retail, it builds on longitudinal perspectives with context-specific knowledge based on real life evidence of 11 retail workers. Findings show that authoritarianism was inherent in luxury fashion, but this logic triggered injustice perceptions. This was a direct result of top- and mid-level management power use enacted through the supply chain hierarchy. These injustices created dignity threats, leading workers to feel damaged, disrespected and devalued. Consequently, workers acted to reclaim dignity. Younger employees left the company, choosing an organisational-exit path, while older employees normalised their treatment. Some workers sent official letters of complaint and refused to be suppressed by their managers. There was also an inclusive leadership innovation that emerged to reclaim workplace dignity.As far as we are aware, researchers and journalists have not investigated what happens in downstream luxury fashion supply chains. Lack of access, a culture of fear and imbalanced power structures impede our understanding of how people working in downstream stages of luxury fashion are affected by the current system. To the best of our knowledge, there is no theoretical study that explains what is happening in luxury retail from a worker perspective. This is one of the first scientific attempts to add to theory across the three supply chain management domains, power, justice and dignity, in this underexplored context.

Purpose - Just transition is a fundamental concept for supply chain management but neither discipline pays attention to the other and little is known about how supply chains can be orchestrated as socioecological systems to manage these transitions. Building from a wide range of just transition examples, this paper explores just transition to understand how to move beyond instrumental supply chain practices to supply chains functioning in harmony with the planet and its people. Design/methodology/approach - Building from a systematic review of 72 papers, the paper identifies just transition examples while interpreting them through the theoretical lens of supply chain management, providing valuable insights to help research and practice understand how to achieve low-carbon economies through supply chain management in environmentally and socially just ways. Findings - The paper defines, elaborates, and extends the just transition construct by developing a transition taxonomy with two key dimensions. The purpose dimension (profit or shared outcomes) and the governance dimension (government-/industry-led versus civil society-involved), generating four transition archetypes. Most transitions projects are framed around the Euro- and US-centric, capitalist standards of development, leading to coloniality as well as economic and cultural depletion of communities. Framing just transition in accordance with context-specific plural values, the paper provides an alternative perspective to the extractive transition concept. This can guide supply chain management to decarbonise economies and societies by considering the rights of nature, communities and individuals. Originality/value - Introducing just transition into the supply chain management domain, this paper unifies the various conceptualisations of just transition into a holistic understanding, providing a new foundation for supply chain management research.

The extension of purchasing and supply chain management practices to reach upstream suppliers is critical in ensuring supply chain sustainability and requires the implementation of governance mechanisms. In this study, we investigate the mechanisms used by firms to ensure sustainability in multi-tier supply chains and how this use differs between the supply chain tiers. A multiple case study was conducted using semi-structured interview data from 25 companies covering three supply chain tiers. We identified 12 different governance mechanisms, the classification of which we suggest be based on their structure and purpose. While some differences were found regarding the specific practices used by individual firms, the overall findings indicate no major differences in terms of sustainability management efforts between the supply chain tiers. Thus, in contrast to previous studies, we show that lower-tier suppliers are active in the innovation and facilitation of supply chain sustainability. Also, the results confirm that firms often delegate the responsibility of ensuring sustainability to their direct suppliers.

This paper is an exploratory qualitative study into how tribunals of inquiry act as instruments of legitimacy and hegemony for the State. Focusing on a case study of two consecutive tribunals of inquiry into the biggest health scandal in the history of the Irish State, the paper draws on ritual theory to offer a view of the tribunal as a process of ritualization, a strategic way of acting by the State in times of crisis. Through this process of ritualization, an authoritative, structured and structuring ritualized environment is created with schemes of ritualization imposed on participants directed toward creating ritualized bodies, hoped-for acceptance of the tribunal's projection of reality and the re-legitimation of the role of the State in undertaking its core functions.

This paper explores the use of gendered language in purchasing and supply management job advertisements across three English-speaking countries.We use secondary data from a global job advertisement website to analyse the extent to which gendered language is used.We explore if agentic, traditional masculine wording, or communal, traditional feminine wording, is used at different hierarchical levels of advertising for purchasing and supply management jobs.Our findings show that there is no significant evidence of a glass-ceiling effect.However, there may be evidence of a sticky-floor effect due to the communal language used in the assistant buyer and buyer job advertisements, which decreases significantly at higher levels.Agentic language use remained constant across the levels.We also found that certain agentic words are more often featured in senior-level advertisements.

PurposeThis impact pathways paper proposes that operations and supply chain management (OSCM) can help to ensure that the transition from a high-carbon to low-carbon fashion industry takes place in a just, inclusive and fair way. By immersion in fashion brands, suppliers and workers' realities across multiple supply chains, the authors identify challenges and issues related to just transitions, whilst proposing research pathways to inspire future OSCM research and collaboration using innovative and creative methods to answer complex questions related to just transition.Design/methodology/approachThe research the authors introduce used a multi-level field research approach to investigate multiple fashion supply chains in transition.FindingsThe authors uncovered that in the pursuit of lowering carbon emissions, fast-fashion giants work with industrial associations to create top-down governance tools, leading to severe problems in supply chain data and paradoxical demands. These demands are cascaded onto the workers in these supply chains. The goals and tools dictated by the fashion giants exclude workers, whilst the physiological and psychological effects on the workers are routinely ignored. These issues impede a just transition to a low-carbon fashion industry.Originality/valueThe authors introduce concepts largely missing from OSCM literature and ensure representation of the most marginalised group, supply chain workers, in a novel setting in a call for research in this emerging area.

Purpose This article explores how companies in multiple controversial industries report their controversial issues. For the first time, the authors use a new conceptualization of controversial industries, focused on harm and solutions, to investigate the reports of 28 companies in seven controversial industries: Agricultural Chemicals, Alcohol, Armaments, Coal, Gambling, Oil and Tobacco. Design/methodology/approach The authors thematically analyzed company reports to determine if companies in controversial industries discuss their controversial issues in their reporting, if and how they communicate the harm caused by their products or services, and what solutions they provide. Findings From this study data the authors introduce a new legitimacy reporting method in the controversial industries literature: the solutions companies offer for the harm caused by their products and services. The authors find three solution reporting methods: no solution, misleading solution and less-harmful solution. The authors also develop a new typology of reporting strategies used by companies in controversial industries based on how they report their key controversial issue and the harm caused by their products or services, and the solutions they offer. The authors identify seven reporting strategies: Ignore, Deny, Decoy, Dazzle, Distort, Deflect and Adapt. Research limitations/implications Further research can test the typology and identify strategies used by companies in different institutional or regulatory settings, across different controversial industries or in larger populations. Practical implications Investors, consumers, managers, activists and other stakeholders of controversial companies can use this typology to identify the strategies that companies use to report controversial issues. They can assess if reports admit to the controversial issue and the harm caused by a company's products and services and if they provide solutions to that harm. Originality/value This paper develops a new typology of reporting strategies by companies in controversial industries and adds to the theory and discourse on social and environmental reporting (SER) as well as the literature on controversial industries.

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to understand how supply chain actors in an Italian cashmere supply chain reacted to dependence and power use during the Covid-19 crisis and how this affected their perceptions of justice. Design/methodology/approach The research took a case study approach exploring issues of dependence, power and justice in a multi-tier luxury cashmere supply chain. Findings The authors found two types of dependence: Craftmanship-induced buyer dependence and Market-position-induced supplier dependence. The authors also identified four key archetypes emerging from the dynamics of dependence, power and justice during Covid-19. In the repressive archetype, buying firms perceive their suppliers as dependent and use mediated power through coercive tactics, leading the suppliers to perceive interactional, procedural and distributive injustice and use reciprocal coercive tactics against the buying firms in the form of coopetition. In the restrictive archetype, buying firms that are aware of their dependence on their suppliers use mediated power through contracts, with suppliers perceiving distributive injustice and developing ways to circumvent the brands. In the relational archetype, the awareness of craftmanship-induced buyer dependence leads buying firms to use non-mediated power through collaboration, but suppliers still do not perceive distributive justice, as there is no business security or future orders. In the resilient archetype, buying firms are aware of their own craftmanship-induced dependence and combine mediated and non-mediated power by giving the suppliers sustainable orders, which leads suppliers to perceive each justice type positively. Originality/value This paper shows how the actors in a specific supply chain react to and cope with one of the worst health crises in living memory, thereby providing advice for supply chain management in future crises.

Framing is a powerful tool shaping innovation success, failure, and transformation. However, innovation framing is not recognized as a unified domain of research and the extant literature is theoretically fragmented across diverse fields. Inconsistencies in definition and operationalization of constructs stall theoretical advancement of innovation framing theory and practice. Importantly, an understanding of the underlying mechanisms enabling framing to mediate innovation outcomes has been missing. Using a systematic literature review (SLR), we integrate diverse theoretical perspectives. Stemming from this, we develop a unified conceptual framework of innovation framing. In so doing we make three vital contributions to the field. First, we develop a typology of construct categories of innovation framing, defining these framing concepts and identifying their theoretical basis. Next, we emphasize the importance of key mechanisms (sensemaking, interpretive flexibility, consensus) in explaining innovation outcomes. Our third contribution identifies innovation stage‐specific differences in the role of framing processes, frame types and characteristics, and the temporal elements of these. Finally, we discuss the implications of our research for innovation practitioners, while concluding with a detailed agenda for future innovation framing research.

With the effects of the climate crisis becoming more extreme, and in view of the urgent need to achieve sustainable development goals, managers, companies, and entire industries must embrace the sustainable, biocircular economy, enabling all stakeholders as well as our planet to thrive in this inevitable future. This article clarifies the emerging concept of sustainable biocircularity by showcasing best-practice applications, with examples from policymakers, civil society organizations (CSOs), companies, and others working together to bring vital transformational change. We present five guiding EARTH principles (ecology, authenticity, resilience, transformation, and holism) to help ensure the transition to a sustainable, biocircular economy benefits organizations and society at minimal cost to the environment. We next introduce the five stages required to develop a successful transition to sustainable biocircularity. Here we highlight how an integrated, systems-based STOP (skills, technologies, opportunities, and problems) road map can enable organizations to conduct strategic analysis and decision making across each of the five stages, thus helping to achieve that transition. We demonstrate how the guiding principles, the five stages, and the road map are intertwined and stress that companies must understand and embrace each of these in order to thrive in this new environment. Finally, we provide a biowashing checklist to help ensure this transition is truly sustainable, just, and authentic. (c) 2023 Kelley School of Business, Indiana University. Published by Elsevier Inc. This is an open access article under the CC BY license (http://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by/4.0/).

Purpose This study examines the relationship between supply chain stakeholder pressure from customers and suppliers for the adoption of social and environmental sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) practices given the simultaneous conditional effects of both entrepreneurial orientation (EO) and sustainability orientation (SO). Design/methodology/approach The authors conducted a survey of US firms focused on their relationship with their top supplier or buyer by spend. This study used conditional process analysis to measure the relationship between stakeholder pressure and adoption of SSCM practices as well as the double moderation effects of EO and SO on this relationship. Findings The results show that both EO and SO simultaneously function as moderators of the effect of supply chain stakeholder pressure on the adoption of social and environmental SSCM practices. However, EO will only get firms so far in the adoption of SSCM practices. Once a strong SO takes effect, higher practice adoption ensues but the effect of stakeholder pressure weakens. Practical implications For those firms that have lower levels of SO, EO and supply chain stakeholder pressure are still essential drivers for the adoption of SSCM practice. The results of this study suggest that focal firms should work closely with suppliers to increase their levels of SO while also maintaining pressure for the adoption of SSCM practices. Originality/value This study shows the concurrent effect of two organizational level drivers on the adoption of SSCM practices, indicating that efforts in developing a strong SO are more likely to prepare firms for the adoption of SSCM practices.

This article explores the role that technology plays in creating and fostering transparency in global supply chains. Transparency is deemed vital in the creation of sustainable and resilient supply chains and overall effective corporate governance. There are two distinct orientations toward the use of technology by multinational corporations (MNCs) in creating sustainability transparency within their global supply chains: control and relational. A control orientation views technology as a tool to gather the ever-increasing levels of sustainability data on supplier practices in an efficient, secure, and progressively automated manner. A relational orientation adopts a view where technology is a tool to help build social relations and improve dialogue and collaboration on sustainability throughout the supply chain. A key difference in the two orientations lies in the mindset of the MNC manager toward the development of supply chain sustainability transparency. The article illustrates the effective application of both approaches and offers advice to managers on the design choices they need to consider in choosing technologies.

Purpose This paper aims to explore the supplier perspective on competitive tendering processes and build on an increasing and developing interest in supplier satisfaction with public sector procurement activities. Design/methodology/approach Qualitative data was collected from 20 interviews with a variety of suppliers to the UK public sector, which was then analysed using Nvivo and a series of empirically supported propositions developed. Findings The findings are combined into an integrated supplier satisfaction model, which explains how a multi-layered set of expectations (past and ideal) and quality dimensions (fairness, ambiguity, unnecessary information, tender focus, relationship irrelevance, unresponsiveness, outcome success) lead to dissatisfaction. This paper also establishes the implications of these judgments (non-response, poor quality and relationship impact) and that they are impacted by comparison to alternatives. Practical implications Supplier dissatisfaction can have serious ramifications for public sector buying organisations by reducing the pool of applicants, creating relationship barriers and a disconnect between the tender and the eventual services provided. This paper gives empirically derived advice to managers and policymakers on how to avoid these issues. Social implications Ensuring that as wide a pool of possible suppliers can respond to tender requests, means that the services that are provided by the public sector can make the most effective and efficient use of available resources. In addition, small to medium-sized enterprises may be encouraged to overcome their feelings of dissatisfaction and respond more frequently and readily to tender requests. Originality/value This paper contributes to the field of public sector procurement and in particular that which looks at increasing supplier satisfaction, by developing a supplier satisfaction model based on supplier generated data, which uses disconfirmation theory to explain the dynamics of how individuals make judgments by comparing perceptions of performance with a multi-layered set of expectations. This paper identifies service quality dimensions that influence satisfaction judgments and the implications of these judgments.

While the drivers for the adoption of sustainable supply chain management practices have been widely studied, most studies focus on the isolated effect of individual drivers. In this study, we examine the relationship between stakeholder pressure and the adoption of social and environmental sustainability supply chain practices given the simultaneous conditional effects of both entrepreneurial orientation and sustainability orientation. A survey of U.S. firms shows that both entrepreneurial orientation and sustainability orientation simultaneously function as moderators of the effect of stakeholder pressure on the adoption of social and environmental sustainability supply chain practices. That is, as stakeholder pressure increases, adoption will be higher for firms with higher entrepreneurial orientation. However, as sustainability orientation increases, adoption of practices will be higher, but the effect of the stakeholder pressure-entrepreneurial orientation interaction diminishes. The main theoretical contribution of this study lies in showing the concurrent effect of two different organizational level drivers on the adoption of social and environmental sustainability supply chain practices. Entrepreneurial orientation will only get firms so far in the adoption of sustainable supply chain practices. Once a strong sustainability orientation takes effect, higher practice adoption ensues independently of stakeholder pressure and entrepreneurial orientation. Therefore, this study indicates that efforts in developing a strong sustainability orientation are more likely to better prepare firms for the adoption of sustainable supply chain management practices.

With massive environmental problems across China, understanding what drives companies to ‘go green’ in this context is of fundamental importance. Literature on environmental management, strategy and managerial cognition show that governments, internal and external company stakeholders, ethical leaders, culture and economic incentives are key drivers of the process of “going green.” However, given different contexts and value systems, a one-or-all concept of environmental sustainability responses is not realistic. This study takes an analytical induction approach using 33 case studies of companies in China to explore the links between different motivations and the kind of corporate environmental activities. We find four interesting clusters of environmental sustainability: compliance, competitiveness, ecological citizenship and ecological changer (4C) demonstrating different configurations of stakeholder orientation, organizational capabilities and green practices adoption.

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to compile a set of articles tackling supply chain issues in BOP contexts that address both demand and supply. Solutions are needed for global sustainability problems from medical aid and food availability to the ability to participate in supply chains for the global poor. Design/methodology/approach The accepted articles in the special issue used a range of qualitative and quantitative methodologies to answer research questions in a variety of base of the pyramid (BOP) contexts. These approaches and results distinguish between demand (BOP market) and supply, or base of the chain (BOC), perspectives. Findings The findings in the eight accepted marticles are interesting and applicable across different BOP contexts. Compilation of the articles into the special issue and the accompanying editorial led to a comprehensive future research agenda that addresses demand-side issues by investigating the customers in BOP markets, and supply-side issues focusing on the suppliers and intermediaries (BOC) who supply BOP markets. Future research ideas include a focus on supply chain design issues situated at the intersection of the demand (BOP) and the supply (BOC) concerns that address the needs of the world’s poorest populations. Research limitations/implications All of the selected articleshave societal implications related to addressing the needs of BOP populations. Many of these articles also have economic and environmental implications, the other two pillars of the triple bottom line. The detailed future research agenda developed in this editorial presents implications for researchers working in emerging and BOP communities to push research forward and further develop the foundational literature in the BOP context. Practical implications From a practical standpoint, each of the eight articles presents ideas for businesses that help address the needs of the global poor while enhancing global sustainability performance. The editorial summarizes these implications and provides new directions and examples of success in the BOP context. Managers are provided with techniques to address the supply and demand side of these growing markets. Originality/value The overall conceptual framework and positioning of the final papers into the BOP market, BOC suppliers and a combination of the two is novel and helps provide guidance to both scholars and managers.

The Rana Plaza aftermath : How multi-stakeholder initiatives impact social sustainability practice implementation and outcomes