The aim of this trial is to evaluate the efficacy of an anti-wrinkle cosmetic product on the cutaneous relief and condition of photoaged skin using a method of clinical scores together with an instrumental technique, namely image analysis of imprints taken from the crow's feet area of the eye. Thirty women presenting with cutaneous photoaging of the face applied the product twice daily for two months. Skin condition was evaluated before treatment (DO) and after 15, 30 and 60 days of treatment (DJ5, D30 and D60). Safety was verified at each visit. Progressive and significant improvement in cutaneous relief and the state of the skin was found, which was identica! by both methods of measurement, thereby confirming the value of the clinica! score method.

A product's packaging and claimed efficacy may stimulate pleasant emotions during the use of cosmetics, thus enhancing their perceived benefits. The aim of this study was to evaluate if smart packaging and strongly claimed efficacy attributes can influence the objectively measured efficacy, allowing a true placebo effect to be associated with a given cosmetic treatment. A marketed anti‐aging gluconolactone‐based formulation was selected for the study and packaged both in a fancy sophisticated jar and in an unbranded plain container. Thirty‐six female volunteers (age range: 30‐‐55 years) with facial photoageing were selected for the study and randomly assigned to the fancy or plain packaged product. Pre‐agreed messages aimed at extolling the product's cosmetic effects accompanied delivery of the fancy‐packaged product to panellists. The given product was applied to the face twice a day for 8 weeks. Instrumental measurements of the skin colour (a* and L* parameter), skin capacitance, skin tensile properties (R0, R2, R6), skin thickness and skin microrelief parameters (Ra and Rz) were taken at baseline and after 4 and 8 weeks of use. Clinical and subjective evaluations were also carried out at each control visit. Moreover, the amount of cream consumed during usage was calculated by weighing the given jars at each visit. Statistical analysis of the data obtained showed a significant improvement in all instrumental parameters for both groups (‘fancy’ and ‘plain’ packaging), although no significant differences were detected between the two groups at any time. The improvement was higher in the ‘plain’ group for most instrumental parameters except for micro‐relief parameters where the outcome was better in the ‘fancy’ group. Promotion of facial muscle relaxation deriving from the application of the fancy‐packaged cream could be a possible explanation for this finding. Also the product's efficacy and sensory properties were perceived with a higher positive impact in the fancy group. The better performance of the plain packaging group could be related to daily application of the ‘proper’ amount of cream. In fact, this group consumed a larger amount of cream than the ‘fancy’ group. These results show that a true placebo effect cannot be induced by packaging characteristics, although they can slightly influence the degree of the expected skin benefits in different ways. Moreover, proper daily dosage of the product appears to be a key factor in improving the biophysical skin properties related to anti‐ageing and restoring effects.Paper presented at the IFSCC Conference 2005, Florence, Italy.

Synopsis ‘Cellulite’ or more correctly oedemateous fibrosclerotic panniculopathy, or local lipodystrophy, is a common aesthetic problem for many women, visually characterized by the orange peel or dimpled look of the skin, mainly on the buttocks and thighs. The cause of cellulite is still a matter of debate. It is currently considered an endocrine‐metabolic microcirculatory disorder that causes interstitial matrix alterations and structural changes in subcutaneous adipose tissue. The first step in cellulite treatment is stimulation of microcirculation and the removal of accumulated fluids and toxic elements. This can improve the interstitial matrix basal regulation, fibroblast activity and decrease interstitial oedema, with subsequent increase in lipolysis and a better oxygen and nutrition of the adipose tissue. In this paper are reported two trials aimed at evaluating clinically and instrumentally the effects of different orally administered multifunctional plant extracts‐based formulations in the treatment of cellulite compared with a placebo.

The topically applied cosmetic products can be helpful in improving the aged skin condition. The present study shows how oral fish‐cartilage food supplementation can be helpful in improving the treatment of ageing skin. A total of 30 healthy women with signs of skin ageing were studied. Fifteen of the women were treated with a food supplement based on polysaccharides derived from the fish cartilage and a natural mix of antioxidants for 2 months and the other 15 with a placebo. Clinical evaluation and biophysical parameters related to skin function and wrinkle severity, such as silicone replica, skin thickness, mechanical properties, skin colour and capacitance, were measured. The results showed statistically significant changes in the active‐treated group in comparison to the placebo. In particular, dermal thickness (treatment: from 1.13 to 1.23 mm; P < 0.001), skin wrinkling (treatment: from 9.5 to 3.5 Ra; P< 0.002), skin colour (treatment: brighter and less pigmented; P < 0.02) and viscoelasticity (treatment: from 0.70 to 0.97%; P < 0.02) showed considerable improvement. Most of these parameters are related to changes occurring within the dermal matrix, which is improved after the treatment, whereas most of the topically applied cosmetic products have a short‐term effect on superficial structures. A combination treatment (oral and topical) can be more effective in reducing the signs of skin‐ageing.

The authors intrestigated the intra-individual and the inter-individual variations of transepidermal water loss. capacitance and microcirculation in to different facial areas in subjects with sensitive skin and in subjects with non-sensitive skin.

Two studies were performed to evaluate the influence of glycerol on the recovery of damaged stratum corneum barrier function. Measurements of transepidermal water loss and capacitance were conducted in a 3-day follow-up after tape stripping (study 1) and a 7-day follow-up after a barrier damage due to a repeated washing with sodium lauryl sulphate. In study 1 a faster barrier repair (transepidermal water loss) was monitored in glycerol-treated sites. Significant differences between glycerol open vs. untreated and glycerol occluded vs. untreated were observed at day 3. Stratum corneum hydration showed significantly higher values in the sites treated with glycerol+occlusion, compared with all other sites. In study 2 a faster barrier repair was seen in glycerol-treated sites, with significant differences against untreated and base-treated sites 7 days after the end of the treatment. Stratum corneum hydration showed highest values in the glycerol treated sites after 3 days of treatment. Glycerol creates a stimulus for barrier repair and improves the stratum corneum hydration; stratum corneum hydration is not strictly related to barrier homeostasis and can be optimized by different mechanisms and pathways. The observed effects were based on the modulation of barrier repair and were not biased by the humectant effect of glycerol. As the glycerol-induced recovery of barrier function and stratum corneum hydration were observed even 7 days after the end of treatment, glycerol can be regarded as a barrier stabilizing and moisturizing compound.

Purpose of the Study: We aimed to evaluate whether prolonged occlusion can induce stratum corneum barrier damage, alterations in stratum corneum hydration or water-holding capacity (WHC) lasting longer than the occlusion time. Materials and Methods: 12 subjects were occluded on the forearm for 24, 48, 72 and 96 h. Two hours after occlusion removal, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin hydration were measured and a sorption-desorption test performed. Results: TEWL showed an increase reaching a plateau on day 2. Hydration and WHC did not show significant changes. Hygroscopicity showed the highest level on day 1, decreasing during the following days. A highly significant correlation between capacitance values and the WHC could be detected (p < 0.0001, r = 0.8206). No correlation could be detected between hygroscopicity and TEWL. Conclusions: Prolonged occlusion induces barrier damage without skin dryness. Occlusion also induces an increased hygroscopicity. A correlation between these two findings could not be proven.

Alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) are used to enhance stratum corneum desquamation and improve skin appearance. The purpose of this study was to evaluate whether some AHAs improve skin barrier function and prevent skin irritation. Eleven healthy subjects (aged 28 +/- 6 years, mean +/- SD) entered the study. Six test sites of 8 x 5 cm (four different AHAs, vehicle only (VE) and untreated control (UNT) were selected and randomly rotated on the volar arm and forearm. The four different AHAs at 8% concentration in base cream were glycolic acid (GA), lactic acid, tartaric acid (TA) and gluconolactone (GLU). The products were applied twice a day for 4 weeks (2 mg/cm2). At week 4, a 5% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) challenge patch test was performed under occlusion for 6 h (HillTop chamber, 18 mm wide) on each site. Barrier function and skin irritation were evaluated by means of evaporimetry (Servomed EP-1) and chromametry (a* value, Minolta CR200) weekly, and at 0, 24 and 48 h after SLS patch removal. No significant differences in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema were observed between the four AHAs at week 4. After SLS challenge, GLU- and TA-treated sites resulted in significantly lower TEWL compared with VE, UNT (P < 0.01) and GA (P < 0.05) both at 24 and 48 h. Similarly, a* values were significantly reduced after irritation in GLU- and TA-treated sites. This study shows that AHAs can modulate stratum corneum barrier function and prevent skin irritation; the effect is not equal for all AHAs, being more marked for the molecules characterized by antioxidant properties.

Background: Topical application of inhibitors of HMGCoA reductase, the rate-limiting enzyme of cholesterol synthesis, has been shown to induce impairment of barrier function, Objective: Assessing whether oral administration of statins used for reducing blood levels of cholesterol induces functional changes in stratum corneum barrier, Materials and Methods: 69 subjects of both sexes undergoing treatment for hypercholesterolemia (mean age 48 +/- 11 years) entered the study; 43 had been treated with simvastatin and 11 with pravastatin for 6 months; 15 only on dietary regimen served as controls, Efficiency of stratum corneum water barrier was evaluated by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement using an evaporimeter; water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum was assessed by the sorption-desorption test measured by capacitance, Statistical analysis was performed using ANOVA, Results: No differences were found between the groups (simvastatin, pravastatin, diet) concerning both basal TEWL and the dynamic of water binding in the stratum corneum, Conclusions: Prolonged treatment with cholesterol-lowering drugs based on inhibition of HMGCoA reductase does not alter the permeability barrier of the skin.

Surfactants can induce skin irritation by removing stratum corneum lipids, extracting amino acids, proteins and natural moisturizing factors from corneocytes. Topical corticosteroids have been used for decades in the treatment of such disorders; however, more recently, the use of formulations containing mixtures of stratum corneum lipids have been proposed. Indeed, it has been shown that EFAD animals show increased TEWL and barrier damage is normalized after application of topical linoleic acid [1, 2].In the present study, we have compared two corticosteroids of the last generation (budesonide 0.1% (BUD) and metilprednisolone aceponate 0.025% (MPA) in cream) versus a product containing omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids with an approximate content of linoleic acid (LAG) near 5%. The purpose of this study was to assess in an experimental model of irritation the usefulness of corticosteroids in treating irritated skin.

Surfactant‐induced irritant reactions may be elicited by several endogenous and exogenous factors. Among these, surfactant concentration, and duration and frequency of exposure play important rotes. The study focuses on the influence of water temperature in determining damage of the skin barrier. 10 subjects of both sexes entered the study. 4 areas (4×4 cm 2 ) were randomly selected on the volar forearm and were treated with a daily open application of 5% sodium lauryl sulphate for 4 days. The solutions were at 3 temperatures: 4®, 20® and 40 ®C. One site served as untreated control. On the 5th day, skin irritation was evaluated using transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements, erythema ( a * value), skin reflectance ( L * value), hydration (capacitance) and desquamation (stripping). The results show a significant effect of the solution's temperature in determining skin irritation ( P < 0.001), Skin damage was higher in sites treated with warmer temperatures and a highly significant correlation ( P < 0.001) between irritation and temperature was found. In conclusion, the study shows that water temperature during washing has an important effect on the onset of irritant contact dermatitis.

Irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) is a multifactorial disease, the onset and modulation of which depend on both endogenous and exogenous factors. Among the former, age, race, site, sex and history of dermatitis may all be important. Such variables can now readily be quantified by objective noninvasive techniques, such as measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Moreover, effects of irritants on the epidermis are related to the particular chemical properties of each molecule, contributing further to clinical heterogeneity. Release of cytokines and mediators may be initiated by a number of cells, including living keratinocytes and those of the stratum corneum, thus modulating inflammation and repair. Furthermore, differences in mechanisms of inflammation between acute and chronic ICD may exist, the former being characterized predominantly by inflammation, the latter by hyperproliferation and transient hyperkeratosis. These findings may explain the complexity and difficulty of investigating ICD. Better understanding and quantification of these mechanisms may lead to identification of high‐risk individuals and more effective prevention and treatment.

Topical treatment of psoriasis with calcipotriol has been proven effective. The efficacy of calcipotriol has been compared to that of topical corticoids in a number of studies using subjective visual scoring systems such as the PASI index. The purpose of this study was to compare, with objective data, the efficacy of calcipotriol and clobetasol propionate 0.05% in the treatment of plaque type psoriasis. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV) were used to monitor restoration of water barrier and normalization of blood flow, respectively, in psoriatic plaques of the limbs of 24 male patients during 3 weeks of treatment. Data were compared to subjective evaluation using the PASI index of the same areas. Significant differences were recorded during treatment in both groups. The results correlated well with the PASI score. Clobetasol was faster in restoring barrier function than calcipotriol. However, no significant differences were detected between the two groups. The use of vitamin analogues may be effective in the topical treatment of psoriasis by normalizing skin biophysical parameters and minimizing the risks of side-effects induced by potent topical corticoids.