BackgroundAs the largest organ of the body, the skin is constantly subjected to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), leading to inflammations and changes that mirror those seen in chronological aging. Although various small molecule drugs have been explored for treating skin photoaging, they typically suffer from low stability and a high incidence of adverse reactions. Consequently, the continued investigation of photoaging treatments, particularly those utilizing herbal products, remains a critical clinical endeavor. One such herbal product, Lapagyl, is derived from the bark of the lapacho tree and possesses antioxidant efficacies that could be beneficial in combating skin photoaging.PurposeThis research aimed to evaluate the efficacy of the herbal product Lapagyl in combating UVR-induced skin photoaging. Additionally, it sought to unravel the mechanisms by which Lapagyl promotes the regeneration of the skin extracellular matrix.MethodsTo investigate whether Lapagyl can alleviate skin aging and damage, a UVR radiation model was established using SKH-1 hairless mice. The dorsal skins of these mice were evaluated for wrinkle formation, texture, moisture, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and elasticity. Pathological assessments were conducted to determine Lapagyl's efficacy. Additionally, single-cell sequencing and spectrum analysis were employed to elucidate the working mechanisms and primary components of Lapagyl in addressing UVR-induced skin aging and injury.ResultsLapagyl markedly reduced UVR-induced wrinkles, moisture loss, and elasticity decrease in SKH-1 mice. Single-cell sequencing demonstrated that Lapagyl corrected the imbalance in cell proportions caused by UVR, decreased UVR-induced ROS expression, and protected basal and spinous cells from skin damage. Additionally, Lapagyl effectively prevented the entry of inflammatory cells into the skin by reducing CCL8 expression and curtailed the UVR-induced formation of Foxp3+ regulatory T cells (Tregs) in the skin. Both pathological assessments and ex vivo skin model results demonstrated that Lapagyl effectively reduced UVR-induced damage to collagen and elastin. Spectrum analysis identified Salidroside as the primary compound remaining in the skin following Lapagyl treatment. Taken together, our study elucidated the skin protection mechanism of the herbal product Lapagyl against UVR damage at the cellular level, revealing its immunomodulatory effects, with salidroside identified as the primary active compound for skin.ConclusionOur study provided a thorough evaluation of Lapagyl's protective effects on skin against UVR damage, delving into the mechanisms at the cellular level. We discovered that Lapagyl mitigates skin inflammation and immunosuppression by regulating Foxp3+ Tregs and the CCL pathway. These insights indicate that Lapagyl has potential as a novel therapeutic option for addressing skin photoaging.

BackgroundThe assessment of skin aging through skin measurements faces limitations, making perceived age evaluation a more valuable and direct tool for assessing skin aging. Given that the aging process markedly affects the appearance of the eye contour, characterizing the eye region could be beneficial for perceived age assessment. This study aimed to analyze age-correlated changes in the eye contour within the Chinese Han female population and to develop, validate, and apply a multiple linear regression model for predicting perceived age.Materials and methodsA na & iuml;ve panel of 107 Chinese women assessed the perceived ages of 212 Chinese Han women. Instrumental analysis evaluated periorbital parameters, including palpebral fissure width (PFW), palpebral fissure height (PFH), acclivity of palpebral fissure (AX), angle of inner canthal (AEN), and angle of outer canthal (AEX). These parameters were used to construct a multiple linear regression model for predicting the perceived ages of Chinese Han women. A combined treatment using Fotona 4D and an anti-aging eye cream, formulated with plant extracts, peptides, and antioxidants, was conducted to verify the cream's anti-aging efficacy and safety. This eye cream was then tested in a large-scale clinical trial involving 101 participants. The prediction model was employed in this trial to assess the perceived ages of the women after an 8-week application of the eye cream.ResultsAll parameters were observed to decrease with age. An intergroup comparison indicated that eyelid aging in Chinese Han women accelerates beyond the age of 50. Consequently, a linear regression model was constructed and validated, with the perceived age being calculated as 183.159 - 1.078 * AEN - 4.487 * PFW + 6.061 * PFH - 1.003 * AX - 0.328 * AEX. The anti-aging efficacy and safety of the eye cream were confirmed through combined treatment with Fotona 4D, showing improvements in wrinkles, elasticity, and dark circles under the eyes. In a large-scale clinical evaluation using this eye cream, a perceived age prediction model was applied, suggesting that 8 weeks of use made participants appear 2.25 years younger.ConclusionOur study developed and validated a multiple linear regression model to predict the perceived age of Chinese Han women. This model was successfully utilized in a large-scale clinical evaluation of anti-aging eye cream, revealing that 8 weeks of usage made participants appear 2.25 years younger. This method effectively bridges the gap between clinical research and consumer perceptions, explores the complex factors influencing perceived age, and aims to improve anti-aging formulations.

BackgroundRepeated exposure to UV generates excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) and damages the enzymatic antioxidant defense system including quinone oxidoreductase 1 (NQO1) and superoxide dismutase (SOD) in skin. Topical application of antioxidants may prevent the undesired damage of cellular proteins, lipids and DNA in skin. Dimethylmethoxy chromanol (DMC) is a bioinspired molecule, designed to be a structural analog to the gamma-tocopherol that is naturally present in vegetables and plants. Turmeric root extract (TRE) is from a plant in South Asia extensively used as a food spice & vegetable, and its main components are turmerones. As both DMC and TRE are strong antioxidants with complementary antioxidation mechanisms, the aim of this study was to investigate the enhanced protective effects of their combination on oxidative damage in HaCaT cells following UVB exposure.Materials and methodsThe effects of single and combined administrations of DMC and TRE on the SOD activity of HaCaT cells were evaluated by the SOD assay and qPCR. The NQO1 expression in the UVB-treated HaCaT cells was analyzed by the Western Blot. Furthermore, a clinical test involving 24 subjects was conducted to evaluate the in vivo antioxidation efficacies of the serum formulated with the combination of DMC and TRE at the optimal weight ratio.ResultsSOD assay showed that pretreating DMC or TRE alone could not preserve the impaired HaCaT SOD activity after UVB treatment. DMC and TRE at 1:1 weight ratio was the optimal combination to enhance the HaCaT SOD activity by approximately more than 1-fold compared with either of the single treated groups. No enhancement effect was observed at other mixing ratios. The 1:1 weight ratio was further proved to be optimal as this combination boosted the NQO1 expression by more than 50%, whereas no boosting effect was observed at other mixing ratios. The clinical test of the serum containing this optimal antioxidant combination demonstrated promising in vivo antioxidation efficacies after 4-week use, including 7.16% improvement in skin lightening, 18.29% reduction in skin redness, 35.68% decrease in TEWL, 19.05% increase in skin gloss and 32.04% enhancement in skin firmness.ConclusionCollectively, our results indicated that the combination of DMC and TRE at 1:1 weight ratio attenuated the UV-induced oxidative damage by synergistically boosting endogenous antioxidant enzyme activity in HaCaT cells. Therefore, this optimal antioxidant combination is a promising treatment to boost skin antioxidation defense system.

Delaying aging is an eternal goal for humanity. Acetyl hexapeptide‐8 (AHP‐8) is an effective skin anti‐aging drug that locally interrupts the signal transmission of muscle contractions and promotes collagen production, thus smoothening wrinkles. However, its high molecular weight and strong hydrophilicity limit its skin permeation capacity. To solve this problem, an ionic liquid with excellent bioactivity, MAC, is synthesized from l ‐malic acid and l ‐carnitine and used as a permeation enhancer to improve the anti‐aging effects of AHP‐8. The ratio of MAC's components is optimized based on density functional theory calculations and cytotoxicity experiments. Low concentrations of MAC significantly increase AHP‐8 transdermal delivery, reaching a maximum at 5‐10 wt% MAC. The pro‐permeation mechanism of MAC is investigated using molecular dynamics simulations, and the penetration enhancement and anti‐aging performance of AHP‐8 are demonstrated by conducting cellular, animal, and clinical experiments. The results show that MAC/AHP‐8 outperforms AHP‐8 in terms of collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis, anti‐inflammation, anti‐oxidation, and inhibition of muscle contraction, thus significantly reducing the number and area of wrinkles and increasing skin moisture and elasticity. This study presents MAC as a simple and efficient transdermal vehicle for the clinical application of AHP‐8.

BackgroundAging is responsible for the majority of skin and soft tissue remolding in humans. Retinol and its derivatives or retinoids effectively intervene skin aging process. Nevertheless, retinoids usually induce skin intolerance, especially among the Chinese, and thus, their application to prevent skin aging is yet to be well accepted. The study of optimal composition and concentration of retinoids is necessary to offer strong antiaging efficacies with minimum irritations. Therefore, a better understanding of retinol and its derivatives is acutely needed to develop strategies to combat skin aging. ObjectiveIn this study, we aimed to determine the optimal ratio of two retinol derivatives-hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) and retinyl propionate (RP) in terms of dermal remodeling and skin aging prevention-and to investigate their synergistic antiaging effects both in vitro and in vivo. MethodsAn in vitro human foreskin fibroblast (HFF-1) cell model was established to evaluate the cell viability of HPR and/or RP treatment. In addition, the antiaging and retinol receptor genes expressions in HFF-1 cells cotreated with HPR and RP were quantified. The in vivo adverse reaction evaluation of skincare serums containing various levels of retinol or the optimal HPR and RP combination termed Gravi-A was performed by 24 h patch tests in 33 subjects prior to the clinical research. Last but not the least, clinical research with 42 Chinese urban women was conducted to assess the in vivo antiaging efficacy of the skincare serum containing this optimal retinoid combination. ResultsThe combination of HPR and RP at the weight ratio of 5:9 was shown to achieve the optimal in vitro antiaging performance. Coadministration of 5 mu g/mL HPR and 9 mu g/mL RP to HFF-1 cells promoted their proliferation at 24 h and synergistically enhanced the expressions of type IV collagen, CRBP-I, and RARB genes. In addition, the skincare serum containing HPR and RP combination at 5:9 weight ratio demonstrated superior in vivo anti-wrinkle and skin elasticity improvement benefits without any adverse reactions, while retinol in the same concentration exerted much higher adverse effect. Skin wrinkles, skin smoothness, TEWL, skin elasticity R2 and R5 were improved by 8.3%, 11.9%, 25.7%, 14.5%, and 22.6%, respectively, after 8-week use. ConclusionOur results indicated the advanced antiaging effect of HPR and RP combination both in vitro and in vivo. In addition, little adverse effect was observed in this study, in comparison with retinol. This combination named as Gravi-A is a potential therapeutic strategy to prevent skin aging, especially for Chinese women.

Purpose As the human body’s largest organ exposed to the external environment, the skin suffers from internal and external aging factors, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, sagging, and rough appearance. However, little is known of the characteristics of skin aging of different body parts in Chinese women. Here, we study the signs of extrinsic skin aging in different body parts to identify the knowledge map of manifestations of aging in Chinese women. Patients and Methods Wrinkle and texture phenotypes and collagen samples from the face, neck, hands, and arms of 326 Chinese women were collected. The correlations between phenotypes and ages and the differences in phenotypes by age were evaluated. Results The wrinkle and texture phenotypes around the eyes and mouth and of the hands were strongly correlated with age. Ages 32 and 58 showed the largest number of differentially changed aging phenotypes. The number of aging phenotypes increased sharply between the ages of 24 and 30, suggesting that the skin was undergoing rapid aging. Eye aging was the most rapidly changing phenotype between 19 and 30 years old. Wrinkles at the corner of the eyes showed a significant difference in the older group, suggesting an early onset and long-term effects. Conclusion This is the first study to be performed on the characteristics of skin aging among Chinese women that takes account of multiple areas of the body. It was found that 24 years old was the time point at which the skin begins to age in Chinese women. This provides important clues for aging-related research and personalized skin care.

Melanins and sebums are two important criteria for the quality evaluation of skin, and they are capable of providing customized suggestions for skin care. Currently, their detection is heavily relied on manual process performed by specialists in laboratory. Although efficient, such a manual detection is an expensive and labor-intensive procedure, and hence, there has been great interest in developing computational models for automatic detection of melanins and sebums from skin images. In this work, we propose an automatic detection algorithm, namely DAME, to identify these two kinds of substances based on a generative adversarial network (GAN). To do so, DAME makes use of a variant of GAN, i.e., pix2pix, due to its strength in image generation by learning the structural and contextual information of melanins and sebums observed from skin images. With these additional augmented images, a robust U-Net model can be learned for automatically detecting and marking melanins and sebums. To evaluate the performance of DAME, we have conducted a series of experiments by comparing it with several existing algorithms on real image datasets, and the results have demonstrated that DAME yields a substantially better detection accuracy than previously published algorithms in terms of several independent evaluation metrics. Moreover, DAME is believed to be more robust than other algorithms, as it obtains the smallest variance for each metric. Hence, DAME makes it possible to automatically detect melanins and sebums with a promising performance. Due to the strong learning ability of GAN, DAME is also able to identify melanins and sebums that are possibly ignored by specialists. The source codes of DAME and datasets used in the experiments are available at https://github.com/reBioco-der/DAME .

BACKGROUND:The demand for personalized skin care is increasing rapidly in recent years. In order to provide suitable products for different customers, an accurate assessment of the skin condition is required. It is necessary to establish a remote and convenient method for quantifying skin condition.MATERIALS AND METHODS:We established a new method for quantifying the facial sebum excretion, using Sebutape as well as a model for objective skin type classification.RESULTS:In total, 2173 sebum quantification samples were collected and categorized into 4 skin types. We found good agreement between subjective and objective skin types. 60.33% of the detection is consistent, and the proportion of discrepancies is only 0.55%. The main mismatch is caused by broad criteria for combination type classification. Quantifying the sebum excretion will help to describe and analyze the skin state easily. We found sebum levels in Chinese women peak at the age between 20 and 30 and decrease dramatically after age 40s.CONCLUSION:This new sebum quantitative method is well consistent to self-report skin type. In addition, it provides a powerful tool for the cosmetic industry to evaluate skin condition precisely and recommend personalized products accordingly.