A chronological survey is given of the papers published in Tekstil from 1982 to 200 1, as well as the contribution of these papers to the development of science and education, textile and garment industry. The following areas are covered: fibres and raw materials, testing textiles and quality assurance, mechanical technologies of textile manufacture (spinning, knitting, weaving preparation and weaving), textile finishing, dyeing and printing, clothing technology, design, energy, management and dry cleaning and washing. Additionally, domestic and international news are also sorted, as these short journalistic forms offered valuable information of almost all the most important news and occurrences in textile and garment branches. The paper is in a way a continuation of the retrospective in the development of textiles from 1952 to 1981, as presented in a paper by L.Gansel and P. K. Luksic, published in Tekstil No. 12, 1986, entitled "Journal Tekstil - 35 years - a mirror of development of the textile complex".

Main characteristics are presented of knitted fabric sample structure and the structure of nonwoven fabric bonded using the Maliwatt(R) stitched-and-knitted technique. Two samples of Weft-knitted V fabrics are knitted, one on a V bed flat-knitting machine with four yams of 20 tex, and the other on double-bed circular knitting machine with 20 tex yam in a complex rib knit. Fabric sample in opposite plain knit is knitted on warp knitting machine, using 44 dtex yam. Samples of nonwoven fabrics are made simultaneously and stitch-bonded using stitched-and-knitted Maliwatt(R) technique, with a single guide bar for stitching of 45 tex. Main structure parameters are tested: breaking force, breaking elongation, as well as elasticity modulus, under different angles to the transversal direction of the samples.

The mechanical properties of stitched-bonded fabrics are investigated in the paper. The main structural characteristics of stitch-and-knitted nonwovens ric in two different density made on automatic warp knitting machine with compound needles and with one laying bar were calculated. Breaking strength of the fabric is determined by means of tensile tester with a constant speed of specimen deformation and at the ball burst test. The tensile test showed a 100% bigger breaking force in warp related to weft direction, while the breaking elongation is 50% greater in welt direction for both of samples. Results of this measurements were showed in diagram.

Parameters of the structure, as well as physico-mechanical properties of plain jersey weft knitted fabric are analysed. Fabric samples of approximately equal surface masses and density coefficients were knitted from yams from of various counts. Lengthwise breaking force was higher than crosswise one for both knitted fabrics. Breaking force for the knit-based knitted fabric is higher then for the plush knitted fabric in both directions, and is higher crosswise than lengthwise for both fabrics tested. Relative elastic deformation is higher for the plush knitted fabric, especially crosswise. Conclusion can be reached that the plush knitted fabric is more elastic than the knit-based one.

Samples of knitted fabric from a cotton yam 20 tex and a blended yarn 67/33 PES/CO 25 tex in two different densities were knitted on an interlock knitting machine E20, employing the procedure of delayed timming. Breaking force in longitudinal direction on looser fabrics is almost twice higher than in transverse direction, and on denser fabrics half than that. Knitted fabric deformation at creeping and relaxation was measured by the action of the constant force of 5 N on the sample of interlock knitted fabric knitted from the yarn 20 tex at the vertical density of the fabric from 13 cm(-1). It was found out that after dry relaxation from 30 min constant fabric deformation was five times that in transverse than in longitudinal direction. The values of other parameters of the fabric structure are within the limits of expected values.

The theoretical part of the paper deals with different kinds of warp tulle stitch with special consideration of three-course and five-course tulle stitch being produced on raschel machines. The common way of presenting this stitch with graphical representation and numerical recording is shown. For this purpose samples of three-course two-bar warp knitted fabric from filament polyamide yam, fineness 6 tex f10 were knitted. In the experimental work basic parameters of tulle warp knitted fabric were calculated. A twice higher breaking strength in longitudinal direction, and elongation at break in cross direction of the knitted fabric was found out.

The dependence of knitted fabric parameters on the cover factor of rib, tuck-rib and half tuck-rib fabric has been investigated. The knitted samples with the value of cover factor within limits of 6 less than or equal to K less than or equal to 15 tex(1/2) cm(-1) (K = 6,7,8,10,11,13,15) were knitted. A cotton yam of Linear density 150 tex (3x50 tex) was used for the samples. The samples were knitted on a double bed flat knitting machine with linear cams. All the significant parameters of knitted structure were analysed, and the functional dependence of the investigation results on the cover factor is shown mathematically by empirical formulae. The knitted fabric with cover factor K = 15 shows the best mechanical properties, i.e. it has the greatest tensile strength, but regarding bulk or compactness of knitted fabric expressed by volume coefficient of bulk delta(v), by which heat insulation is determined, these values are not optimal. The optimal values of these coefficients lie between cover factors K = 10 and K = 12.

Parameter of geometry and mechanical parameters of plain backed knitted fabric, manufactured by the repeat of backed yam laying 1:1, are investigated. Knitted fabric parameters are analysed, together with the knitted fabric surface mass, breaking force and breaking elongation of the samples in longitudinal and transverse direction. Breaking force in transverse direction is three times that in horizontal direction, while breaking elongation is 1,5 times that in horizontal direction.

The impact of synchronized and delayed timing on cotton interlock knitted fabric properties has been investigated. Geometry and characteristic parameters of interlock knitted fabric have been analysed, as well as physio-mechanical properties of these fabrics. Interlock knitted fabric produced by the method of delayed timing has higher breaking strength lower breaking crosswise elongation than the fabric produced employing sinchronized timing couliering and the same yarn.

Production and basic types of cottons grown in the USA have been presented. Key properties of the best known sorts have been described, together with the procedures for their sorting. Emphasis has been given to qualitative factors of HVI Classification, The expression is used for the standardised procedure developed by the American Department of Agriculture, aimed at measuring physical properties of raw cotton, using an electronic computer system. The classification defines fibre length, uniformness of the length, strength, micronaire value, colour, and green leaf and impurity content.

The impact of post knitting dry relaxation time on relaxation properties of Two bar warp knitted fabric has been investigated. Knitted samples have been loaded during a specific post knitting relaxation phase with a constant; force of traction lenghtwise and widthwise, after which dry relaxation has been investigated. Dry relaxation procedure has been presented by a mathematical model, with the help of a computer software especially constructed for this purpose, and model parameters have been calculated. A high level of correspondence between the experimental results and computer model has been obtained. The knitted fabrics tested behave differently after traction force loading in various phases of post knitting relaxation. The knitted fabric should not be exposed to forces of traction higher than 10% of their respective breaking forces, as the influence of these forces on relaxation properties of the fabrics tested is prominent widthwise.