The main stability factors of the pressed powder include hardness and drop stability. In general, for pressed powder with talc, the hardness and drop stability are evenly met and the skin texture is excellent. Recently, more than ever customers are looking for a replacement due to asbestos issue of talc. Therefore, it is urgent to develop a pressed powder formulation without talc that maintains stability and does not lose its sense of use. In this study, experiments were conducted to find the optimal ingredients mixing ratio to make talc-free pressed powder. The characteristics of raw materials used mainly in powder were checked and the ratio was changed, and the lightness and hardness were measured 오지원ᆞ김현지ᆞ곽병문ᆞ조한태ᆞ이미기ᆞ빈범호 대한화장품학회지, 제47권 제 1 호, 2021 32 and drop test was conducted. If the natural mica ratio was higher than the synthetic mica or non-coated silica was used instead of the coated silica, the hardness and drop stability were lower than the content containing talc, but the lightness was similar. Conversely, if the synthetic mica ratio was equal to or higher than the natural mica ratio and the coated silica ratio was equal to or higher than the non-coated silica ratio, the hardness and drop stability of the content containing talc were similar, but the lightness was low. It was found that the hardness was higher than the content containing talc, but the drop stability was lower. Therefore, further study of the correlation between hardness and fall stability is also thought to be necessary.
The barrier structure of the skin’s epidermis is a key structure to prevent the loss of water inside the body and the invasion of foreign substances, and is composed of keratinocytes and intercellular lipids. At this time, the intercellular lipids of the skin barrier has the strongest structure when packed in an orthorhombic structure. However, it is damaged by various external causes and changes to a hexagonal structure. This change in physical structure can be analyzed non-invasively by analyzing the signal of the CH2-CH2 scissoring band of lipids using FT-IR. In this study, SDS was treated on porcine skin to construct a skin barrier damage model, and the degree of change in packing structure was quantified by analyzing FT-IR signals. We then judged whether the barrier of the damage model was recovered according to the treatment of the cosmetic formulation. From these results, an indirect method of measuring the water evaporation of the skin barrier to date can be supplemented. In addition, physical changes in the structure of the skin barrier can be utilized in a direct and efficient manner to identify the function and verify the formulation of various materials.
: Propolis is a sticky resinous substance that is formed by the combination of honeybee secretions and resin of plants, which serves to protect from bacteria and viruses. This study aims to evaluate the efficacy of propolis extract from Korea (KPE), China (CPE), and Brazil (BPE) through antioxidant, antibacterial, whitening, and anti-inflammatory tests, and to examine their potential as cosmetic materials. KPE, CPE, and BPE showed significant antioxidant activities on flavonoid/polyphenol content and free radical scavenging activity. The antibacterial effect of propolis on skin flora was determined by measuring the minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC). KPE showed better antibacterial efficacy than CPE and BPE in C. acnes (KPE, CPE, and BPE: (62.5, 250, and 500) µ g/mL, respectively). Furthermore, KPE inhibited the melanin synthesis in human epidermal melanocytes and production of nitric oxide and PGE 2 induced by lipopolysaccharide (LPS) in mouse macrophages, which showed better than did CPE or BPE. Taken together, the propolis extracts can be applied to antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory ingredient for cosmetics, while KPE showed superior potential in antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and whitening efficacies.
Recently, since atopic dermatitis is sensitive to skin irritation, it has been suggested that the development of a patch that can effectively exhibit adhesion and absorption to a specific local area while minimizing skin irritation, and capable of appropriate drug release should be given priority. In this study, we tried to develop a hydrogel patch that minimizes skin irritation, adheres effectively to a specific area, and promotes absorption. The atopic patch was formulated into a super-absorbent hydrogel sheet using a freeze drying method. Cell viability assay was carried out using keratinocytes (HaCaT cell) and fibroblasts (L929 cells). In order to investigate the physical properties, FT-IR, FE-SEM, porosity analysis and swelling behavior were investigated. As a result, the newly prepared HA-Dex hydrogel patch was verified by biocompatibility and physical evaluation. In addition, the manufactured hydrogel patch has sufficient moisture absorption capacity and can relieve itching of atopic skin, and is expected to be applied to various drug delivery products for the treatment of atopic dermatitis in the future.
인간의 피부가 지하철 터널과 같은 외부환경에서 고농도의 입자 먼지(PM2.5, PM10)에 장시간 노출되면 피부에 나쁜 영향을 받게 된다. 특히, 미세입자 먼지는 피부를 손상시켜 염증과 알러지 반응을 일으킨다. 본 연구에서는 달맞이꽃뿌리 추출물이 피부에 미세입자 먼지가 반응하여 피부손상을 유발할 때 피부염증 저해능력을 조사하였다. 입자형태의 먼지는 지하철에서 하루에 가장 높은 농도로 존재할 때 수집하였다. 달맞이꽃뿌리 추출물은 대조군에 비하여 강한 항산화능을 보였다 (62.6%). 미세입자 형태와 달맞이꽃뿌리 추출물의 혼합물은 일산화질소 생성을 억제하여 달맞이꽃뿌리 추출물이 미세입자 먼지에 의하여 유발되는 피부염증을 완화하는 효과가 확인되었다. 달맞이꽃뿌리 추출물은 세포독성이 대조군에 비하여 낮았다. 입자형태의 먼지(PM10)를 세포에 노출시켰을 때 달맞이꽃뿌리 추출물의 농도를 증가시킬수록(5, 10, 20 μg/mL) 활성산소 수준이 감소함과 동시에 양성 대조군에 비하여 더욱 효과적이었다. 따라서 본 연구결과는 달맞이꽃뿌리 추출물이 미세입자 형태의 먼지에 의하여 유발되는 피부 손상을 완화시킬 수 있는 효능을 제공하여 피부용 화장품 소재로 활용이 가능함을 입증하였다.
