为探究超临界CO2流体对果胶酶处理棉纤维去除其表层果胶杂质效果的影响,分别在超临界CO2流体和水介质中用果胶酶处理棉纤维,并进行对比分析.借助扫描电子显微镜、分光测色仪、紫外分光光度计、万能强力仪等分别对处理后棉纤维的表面形貌、染色性能、固色性能和拉伸断裂强力等进行了比较和分析.结果显示:果胶酶能有效促使棉纤维表层杂质脱落,相较于传统水介质,超临界CO2流体介质中,果胶酶对棉纤维表层果胶杂质的去除效果更好,测得超临界CO2流体介质中,果胶酶分解的棉纤维表层果胶反应残液中的还原糖质量浓度达到了1.556g/L.处理后的棉纤维表层出现了剥落和细纹,染色上染程度更深更均匀,K/S值达到1.051,且耐皂洗色牢度、耐摩擦色牢度评级更高,拉伸断裂强力相比未处理的棉纤维有一定下降.
为了扩大中空多孔纤维膜在CO2分离方面的应用,提高其捕捉、分离CO2的能力,总结了中空多孔纤维膜在CO2气体分离中的应用研究进展,主要分析了中空多孔纤维膜在CO2分离过程中的溶解-扩散机制、促进传递机制和分子筛分机制;概括了干喷湿纺、湿法纺丝、静电纺丝及熔融纺丝-拉伸法等中空多孔纤维膜的制备方法;归纳了溶液混和、涂层包覆和蒸汽渗透在中空多孔纤维膜功能性整理方面的应用;最后指出现有中空多孔纤维膜应用于CO2气体分离方面所存在的气体传输性差、纤维膜孔隙无法控制等问题,并对未来的中空多孔纤维膜在低阻力条件下进行远距离气体传输和纤维孔隙的改善进行了展望.
为了解决医用防护服透气透湿性差和难降解的问题,采用水刺工艺制备聚乳酸(PLA)/粘胶水刺非织造材料,并使用喷雾胶将水刺、熔喷(M)、纺粘(S)材料黏合紧密制备 SM水刺复合非织造材料.采用单因素试验探讨水刺工艺(水刺面密度、聚乳酸混比、水刺压力)对SM水刺复合非织造材料的透湿和耐静水压性能影响和适用范围,并通过响应曲面试验优化SM水刺复合非织造材料的制备工艺.结果表明:最佳水刺工艺参数为聚乳酸混比 73%、水刺面密度 52 g/m2、水刺压力 2 MPa;最优工艺制备的 SM水刺复合非织造材料的耐静水压为 2.65 kPa,与预测值 2.71 kPa相差 2.21%,表明该预测模型可以很好地对材料的耐静水压进行分析和预测.通过优化得到SM水刺复合非织造材料的最佳工艺条件,可用于兼备良好透气透湿和阻隔性能的医用防护材料的开发.
In order to expand the product structure,comply with the trend of green design,carry out the concept of environmental protection,design and produce fabrics to meet the innovative design needs of textiles in the new era.40%green cashmere and 60%purple cashmere with natural color and no subsequent dyeing treatment were selected as raw materials,the whole process parameters of combing,spinning,weaving and finishing of worsted fabrics were designed,the worsted cashmere fabric with non-dyed jointed double-layer structure was designed and woven by spinning high-thread-density yarn with yarn density of 12.5 tex,twist of 424 twist/m,fiber length of 40.4 mm and fineness of 16.92 μm,the fabric is light and thin,soft and delicate,high added value,not only meet the needs of consumers,but also meet the requirements of low-carbon,green and sustainable development,effectively promote the transformation and upgrading of the product structure of the enterprise,enhance the brand value of the enterprise.
In order to analyze the role of humidity in fabric crease recovery,a test platform with temperature and humidity adjustment was set up to measure the whole process of fabric crease recovery under different relative humidity conditions.Six kinds of plain woven fabrics(two kinds each of cotton,mulberry silk and wool)were selected as test fabrics,and the crease specimens were prefabricated by pressing the crease of the fabrics with 30 N pressure for 24 h,and then placed in the platform with the temperature of 20℃and the relative humidity of 70%and 90%to carry out the test.The results show that humidity plays a significant role in the crease recovery of fabrics and is affected by the specification parameters of the fabrics by analyzing the scatter plot of the crease angle of each fabric in the direction of warp and weft crease over time,and under the effect of humidity,the final crease recovery effect of fabrics is inversely proportional to the density of the yarns and positively proportional to the twist rate of the yarns.At the same time,it is proved that this platform has experimental operability,which provides a practical basis for further research on the crease recovery performance of fabrics under the changeable external environmental factors such as heat,humidity and force.
In view of the difficulty in identifying specialty animal fibers with similar appearance and morphology,the progress of qualitative and quantitative detection technology of special animal fibers in recent years was briefly described.The detection principle,procedure,cost,advantages and disadvantages and applicability of microscope/electron microscope method,DNA detection method,protein analysis method and automatic intelligent image detection method were analyzed and compared.The results show that some samples that difficult to distinguish need comprehensive use of subjective and objective detection methods to get more accurate results.The purpose of this paper is to provide reference for the relevant testing institutions and testing personnel to understand and choose the appropriate methods.
In view of the high volatility and difficulty in lasting lavender essential oil of aromatherapy products in biological and pharmaceutical fields,β-cyclodextrin/lavender essential oil microcapsules were prepared by using lavender essential oil as the core material and β-cyclodextrin as the wall material by saturated aqueous solution method using intermolecular complexation,and Box-Behnken method was used to explore the best preparation process.Microcapsules of β-cyclodextrin/lavender essential oil were mixed into spinning stock solution to prepare nanofibers with two-stage slow-release effect.The structures and properties of β-cyclodextrin/lavender essential oil microcapsules and their nanofibers were characterized by thermogravimetry,scanning electron microscopy,Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and water contact angle.The results show that when β-cyclodextrin was 1 g,the essential oil dosage was 0.12 mL,the inclusion temperature was 39.2 ℃,and the stirring time was 1.48 h,the inclusion rate of the essential oil was 83.2%,and the thermal stability of the essential oil was improved after inclusion.No new chemical bonds were formed between the essential oil and β-cyclodextrin,and the aroma retention rate of the microcapsules was 75.1%after 21 days.When microcapsules were doped in nanofibers,the hydrophobic properties of the fibers were weakened,and the aromatic retention rate was 82.5%after 21 days.Microencapsulated nanofibers have a good slow-release effect on lavender essential oil,which provides a new idea for the design of aromatic functional textiles.
作品名称:海南色彩地域性设计与建构——雨林系列 设计说明: 海南热带雨林地处热带亚洲北缘的季风气候区,雨林是充满无限生机和可能的地方,作品灵感来源于海南热带雨林的原始、荒蛮、浓郁而富有生命气息的丰富性与层次感,从自然的元素中寻找心灵的原野与返璞归真.
In order to improve the efficiency and accuracy of jacquard pattern similarity recognition in knitting factories and avoid the subjective differences of traditional manual identification,a jacquard knitted fabric pattern similarity recognition algorithm based on morphological edge detection was proposed in this paper.Firstly,the knitted jacquard database was designed and constructed by process software,the pattern image was prepossessed by MatLab,and then the outline feature image of the jacquard structure was extracted by corrosion and expansion,after then,the similarity between each pattern in the database and the target pattern was retrieve out by the similarity measurement formula.Finally,the jacquard pattern of the similarity rate above the set threshold was screened.The results show that in the pattern database with sample size of 100,the target sample screening speed is less than 1.21 s,and it is not easily affected by subjective factors.Image processing based jacquard knitted fabric pattern similarity recognition method has high efficiency and reliability,and can provide technical support for manufacturers to quickly select target patterns.
Aerogel has excellent thermal insulation properties,but the shortcomings of the encapsulated material,such as poor moisture and air permeability and lack of bending resistance,limit its application in functional garments.In order to address this problem,The aerogels were drilled to improve its moisture permeability and air permeability,and the aerogel material and aerogel cotton wadding was filled as the inner core in the fabric,and then zipper sealing was used as a removable device to improve the durability of wearing,and then Velcro was used to fasten the removable device to the outer surface of the garment,so as to develop a warm function garments.Real-world wearing experiments were carried out in a low-temperature environment to compare the performance of aerogel in meditation and brisk walking,and the performance of aerogel in sitting and walking were compared.The experiment was conducted in a low-temperature environment to compare the differences in average skin temperature,temperature and humidity inside the garment,subjective warmth and cold sensation,and subjective wetness sensation between the conventional cotton garment and the aerogel garment when wearing the garment during meditation and brisk walking.The results show that the temperature change of the body surface in aerogel clothing is more stable compared with conventional cotton clothing,and the thermal insulation effect of aerogel clothing is more obvious in the process of medium-intensity metabolic heat production,and the humidity and subjective wetness in the aerogel clothing in the dynamic and static experiments are all in the comfortable range.This method can be used to design aerogel garments with both warmth and moisture permeability,and at the same time,it is easy to clean and use multiple combinations.
作品名称:生生不息 设计说明: 作品将废旧毛绒玩具二次改造,创作了西装套装、马甲、半身裙毛呢服装.毛绒玩具承载孩提时的记忆与成长中的心路历程.作品把毛绒玩具拆解融入经典的职业化服装版型,运用拼布、叠加、填充、针毡等工艺,创新再造青年服装,变废为宝,旨实现可持续发展目标.
In view of the anti-felt shrinkage finishing of protease method often preferentially acts on non-keratin and cell membrane complexes when treating wool,resulting in excessive damage to wool fibers,a new environmentally friendly pretreatment-compound enzyme finishing process was developed.The results show that the felt shrinkage rate of wool fabric treated by this process was 4.74%,which was significantly lower than that of untreated samples(24%),and the strength loss was only 4.5%.In addition,the anti-pilling performance of the wool fabric after finishing reaches 4.5 grade and has good dyeing performance.
In order to improve consumer participation and satisfaction in personalized clothing design,a clothing style image interactive generation system based on(CGAN)conditional generative adversarial networks was studied using a monochrome dress as an example.The system induced keywords of describing dress style through research on e-commerce platforms and consumers,trained CGAN with images labeled with keywords,and generated corresponding dress style images based on monochrome dress sample images or style keywords provided by consumers.The generated images selected by users were added to the training set for iterative training to gradually improve user satisfaction.The results show that the average selection rate of the first round of style images was 20%when users provided fewer samples or keywords,and the selection rate could be increased to 30%after three rounds of iteration.Compared with the DCGAN method,the selection rate of this system has significantly increased by about 10%,and provide a new method for the development of interactive clothing design systems.
作品名称:纺织图形设计 设计说明: 本系列没计作品的灵感来源于国家级非物质文化遗产土家织锦西兰卡普.西兰卡普的纹样题材丰富多彩,包括动植物、生活器物、勾纹几何等400余种经典纹样,被称为"高度浓缩了的土家族文化".设计作品以西兰卡普中经典的八勾纹样和椅子花纹样为灵感,运用形状文法的变形法则进行重组再设计.
In order to explore the impact of consumer perceived value of virtual clothing on brand purchase intention,the study used the S-O-R theory to construct a relationship model between the consumers' perceived value,brand attitude,and purchase intention of virtual clothing.The data collected through questionnaire was used to empirically examine the impact paths among the three factors using a structural square model.Results show that consumers' perceived aesthetic value and perceived entertainment value of virtual clothing have a significant positive impact on brand awareness,which is beneficial for brand image construction in the digital age;Perceived social value,perceived entertainment value,and perceived information value have a significant positive impact on brand sentiment,which is conducive to promoting brand loyalty and identity;Perceived information value can directly promote consumers' brand purchase intention,while perceived aesthetic value,perceived social value,and perceived entertainment value cannot directly affect purchase intention,but can be enhanced through the mediating effect of brand cognition and brand emotion.
随着我国社会经济的不断发展,人们对纺织品图案的设计要求也越来越高,人们的审美、价值观、生活方式都对纺织品的图案设计和应用发挥着较大影响.纺织品图案是人们生活中最常见的艺术设计形式.纺织品通过印染、织造工艺及手工染绘、编织、刺绣等手法,呈现出具有艺术特点的精美图案,被称为纺织品图案.纺织品的图案设计与制作需要设计人员具有高超的设计能力和创新性的设计思维,才能满足消费者对图案设计的个性化、多元化需求,这就需要设计人员不断深入市场进行调研,了解消费者的审美变化,关注国内外纺织品图案设计的发展趋势,才能设计出符合消费者需求的纺织品图案.
In order to improve the repeatability and reproducibility of filtration efficiency value of clean fabric,and achieve accurate and reliable measurement values,different clean fabric samples were used as experiment objects.By controlling the surface static electricity and environment humidity of fabric,the influence of static electricity,charge polarity and environmental humidity on filtration efficiency were investigated.The results show that the initial surface static intensity of clean fabric and ambient humidity have influence on the filtration efficiency of air particles directly.The filtration efficiency would be improved with the increase of static intensity on fabric surface,while the influence of air humidity on filtration efficiency is related to air humidity and the fabric surface material characteristics.In terms of the difficulty in controlling the amount of charge on the fabric surface,it is recommended to use ion fan to perform antistatic treatment on the clean fabric surface before test,and the ambient humidity is suggested to be controlled at unified atmospheric humidity.The normalization and standardization of test parameters will effectively modify the stability and accuracy of the air particle filtration efficiency results,and also ameliorate the inspection and testing ability of clean fabrics.
In order to better understand the relationship between color effect and fabric weare,broaden the pattern types and application range of small jacquard fabric,three kinds of color effects based on plain derivative weave were designed,the three kinds of fabric weave mainly include warp rib weave,weft rib weave and basket weave.The same and different sizes of yarns were used for trial weaving.The results show that when the color yarns are arranged unchanged,different fabric weave will form different color effects.The weave used in the design belong to plain derivative weave,therefore,the color effects of basket weave and rib weave have different styles,and similar parts,too;The differences of yarn sizes also lead to the differences of fabric appearance patterns in the same color effect figure.The weaving fabric sample show that the fabric picture is not only affected by the fabric weave,but also by the yarn sizes and fabric density.The design of color effect also provides a new idea for designers to form more and more extensive fabric effects through the matching of color effect and weave structure.
In order to enrich the structure of 3D printed fabrics and solve the problem of single organizational structure of 3D printed fabrics,scanning electron microscopy,infrared spectroscopy,X-ray diffraction,tensile performance testing and analysis were conducted on flexible polylactic acid(PLA)materials before and after melt spinning.The results show that PLA is suitable as the printing material for weft knitted single sided uneven jacquard fabrics.Using the flexible PLA as the material,the jacquard model was printed by FDM technology,and the 3D printed weft knitted single sided uneven jacquard structure was prepared and its related properties were tested.The thickness of the printed fabric is 1.5 mm.The printing effect is equivalent to the simulation effect.The coil string is obvious and the jacquard effect is clear.Compared with single sided uneven jacquard fabrics of acrylic yarn knitted by flat knitting machines,the 3D printed weft knitted single sided uneven jacquard fabrics have good stretchability,air permeability and moisture permeability,but poor rigidity,flexibility and bursting resistance.
