Background: Within the solar ultraviolet (UV) spectrum, ultraviolet A rays (UVA, 320-400 nm), although less energetic than ultraviolet B rays (UVB, 280-320 nm), constitute at least 95% of solar UV radiation that penetrates deep into the skin The UV rays are associated with both epidermal and dermal damage resulting from the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Among them, the longest UVA wavelengths (UVA1, 340-400 nm) can represent up to 75% of the total UV energy. Therefore, UVA radiation is linked to various acute and chronic conditions, including increased skin pigmentation and photoaging. Despite many advances in the skin photoprotection category, there is still a growing demand for natural daily photoprotection active ingredients that offer broad protection against skin damage caused by UVA exposure. In our quest to discover new, disruptive, next generation of photoprotective ingredients, we were drawn to pomegranate, based on its diverse polyphenolic profile. We investigated the pericarp of the fruit, so far considered as byproducts of the pomegranate supply chain, to design a novel patented extract "POMAOX" with a desired spectrum of phenolic components comprising of αβ-punicalagins, αβ-punicalins and ellagic acid. Methods: Antioxidant properties of POMAOX were measured using in-tubo standard tests capable of revealing a battery of radical oxygen species (ROS): peroxyl radical (ORAC), singlet oxygen (SOAC), superoxide anion (SORAC), peroxynitrite (NORAC), and hydroxyl radical (HORAC). In vitro, confirmation of antioxidant properties was first performed by evaluating protection against UVA-induced lipid peroxidation in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF), via the release of 8 iso-prostanes. The protection offered by POMAOX was further validated in a 3D in vitro reconstructed T-SkinTM model, by analyzing tissue viability/morphology and measuring the release of Matrix Metallopeptidase 1 (MMP-1) & pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-1α, IL-1ra, IL-6, IL-8, GM-CSF, and TNF-α) after UVA1 exposure. Results: POMAOX displayed strong antioxidant activity against peroxynitrite (NORAC) at 1.0-3.0 ppm, comparable to the reference vitaminC, as well as singlet oxygen (SOAC) at 220 ppm, and superoxide radicals with a SORAC value of 500 ppm. Additionally, POMAOX demonstrated strong photoprotection benefit at 0.001% concentration, offering up to 74% protection against UVA-induced lipid peroxidation on HDF, in a similar range as the positive reference, Vitamin E at 0.002% (50 µM), and with higher efficacy than ellagic acid alone at 5 µM. Moreover, our pomegranate-derived extract delivered photoprotection at 0.001%, mitigating dermal damages induced by UVA1, through inhibition of MMP-1 and significant inhibition of pro-inflammatory mediators release (including IL-1α, IL-1ra, IL-6, IL-8, GM-CSF, and TNFα) on an in vitro reconstructed full-thickness human skin model with a similar level of protection to that of Vitamin C tested at 0.035% (200 µM). Conclusions: Overall, the novel pomegranate-derived extract "POMAOX" significantly reduced the impact of UVA on human skin, due to its broad-spectrum antioxidant profile. These findings suggest that POMAOX could offer enhanced protection against the detrimental effects of UV exposure, addressing the growing consumer demand for strong photoprotection with skincare benefits.

The skin hydration level is a key factor that influences the physical and mechanical properties of the skin. The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis, is responsible for the skin’s barrier function. In this study, we investigated the role of a unique composition of Viola yedoensis extract for its ability to activate CD44, a cell-surface receptor of hyaluronic acid, and aquaporin-3, a water-transporting protein, in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). An ELISA assay evaluating the protein expression levels of CD44, aquaporin-3 (AQP3), filaggrin, and keratin-10 revealed that V. yedoensis extract upregulated the levels of CD44 and AQP3 by 15% and 78%, respectively. Additionally, V. yedoensis extract demonstrated a comparative effect on water vapor flux in TEWL and lipid perturbation in DSC versus the reference, glycerin. In light of this new biological efficacy, a detailed phytochemical characterization was undertaken using an integrated LC-HRMS/MS-based metabolomics approach, which provided further insights on the chemistry of V. yedoensis. This led to the identification of 29 secondary metabolites, 14 of which are reported here for the first time, including esculetin, aesculin, apigenin and kaempferol C-glycosides, megastigmane glycosides, roseoside, platanionoside B, and an eriojaposide B isomer, along with the rare, calenduloside F and esculetin diglucoside, which are reported for the first time from the genus, Viola. Notably, two active components identified in the V. yedoensis extract, namely, aesculin and schaftoside, showed an upregulation of the protein expression of CD44 in HaCaT cells by 123% and 193% within 24 h of treatment, respectively, while aesculin increased AQP3 levels by 46%. Aesculin and schaftoside also significantly upregulated the expression of K-10 levels by 299% and 116%, which was considerably higher than sodium hyaluronate, the positive control. The rationale used to characterize the new structures is outlined along with the related biosynthetic pathways envisioned to generate roseoside and Eriojaposide B. These findings provide new molecular insights to deepen the understanding of how V. yedoensis extract, along with the biomarkers aesculin and schaftoside, restores the skin barrier and skin hydration benefits.

Anthocyanins, primarily found in flowers, vegetables, and fruits, play a critical role in human and plant health. These polyphenolic pigments are predominantly found in plants in the form of glucosides linked to one or more sugar units and exhibit a broad range of structural diversity. This creates a complex spectrum of anthocyanins making it challenging to perform its absolute quantification in different plant matrices due to the lack of availability of all reference standards. More commonly today, anthocyanins are quantified by spectrophotometric methods, which is non-specific quantification due to a lack of information on the anthocyanin classes present. In this study, a systematic approach has been proposed to address this challenge, utilizing liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry using precursor ion scan mode for high-specificity identification and subsequent quantification of the anthocyanin classes. A method was developed for six anthocyanin classes and it was used to quantify anthocyanins in black carrot extract. The initial scan was conducted for all anthocyanin classes, followed by the quantification of the anthocyanin classes detected using the reference standard specific to that class. This approach has demonstrated that precursor ion scan mass spectrometry can serve as a valuable tool for the rapid identification and specific quantification of anthocyanin classes in plants.

Assessing drug disposition in the skin after the application of a topical formulation is difficult. It is hypothesized that reverse iontophoresis (RI), which can extract charged/polar molecules for monitoring purposes, may provide a noninvasive approach for the assessment of local drug bioavailability. The passive and RI extraction of salicylic acid (SA) and nicotine (NIC) from porcine skin in vitro was assessed after a simple solution of the former and a transdermal patch of the latter had been applied for 24 and 8 h, respectively. Immediately after this "passive skin loading", the amount of drug in the stratum corneum (SC) and "viable" tissue (VT) was measured either (a) after tape-stripping and subsequent solvent extraction of both skin layers or (b) following RI extraction over 4 h. Parallel experiments were then performed in vivo in healthy volunteers; in this case, the VT was not sampled and the skin loading period for NIC was only 4 h. RI extraction of both drugs was significantly higher (in vitro and in vivo) than that achieved passively, and the cumulative RI extraction profiles as a function of time were mathematically analyzed using a straightforward compartmental model. Best-fit estimates of drug amounts in the SC and VT (ASC,0 and AVT,0, respectively) at the end of "loading" and two first-order rate constants describing transfer between the model compartments were then determined. The in vitro predictions of ASC,0 and AVT,0 were in excellent agreement with the experimental results, as was the value of the former in vivo. The rate constants derived from the in vitro and in vivo results were also similar. In summary, the results provide proof-of-concept that the RI method has the potential to noninvasively assess relevant metrics of drug bioavailability in the skin.

Filipendula ulmaria, commonly known as meadowsweet, is a wild herbaceous flowering plant that is widely distributed in Europe. A range of salicylic acid derivatives and flavonol glycosides have been previously associated with the antirheumatic and diuretic properties of F. ulmaria. In the present work, a hydroalcoholic extract from F. ulmaria aerial parts was extensively profiled using an efficient NMR-based dereplication strategy. The approach involves the fractionation of the crude extract by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC), 13C NMR analysis of the fractions, 2D-cluster mapping of the entire NMR dataset, and, finally, structure elucidation using a natural metabolite database, validated by 2D NMR data interpretation and liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. The chemodiversity of the aerial parts was extensive, with 28 compounds unambiguously identified, spanning various biosynthetic classes. The F. ulmaria extract and CPC fractions were screened for their potential to enhance skin epidermal barrier function and skin renewal properties using in vitro assays performed on Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes. Fractions containing quercetin, kaempferol glycosides, ursolic acid, pomolic acid, naringenin, β-sitosterol, and Tellimagrandins I and II were found to upregulate genes related to skin barrier function, epidermal renewal, and stress responses. This research is significant as it could provide a natural solution for improving hydration and skin renewal properties.

Plant metabolic profiling can provide a wealth of information regarding the biochemical status of the organism, but sample acquisition typically requires an invasive and/or destructive extraction process. Reverse iontophoresis (RI) imposes a small electric field across a biological membrane to substantially enhance the transport of charged and polar compounds and has been employed, in particular, to extract biomarkers of interest across human skin. The objective of this work was to examine the capability of RI to sample phytochemicals in a minimally invasive fashion in fructo (i.e., from the intact fruit). RI was principally used to extract a model, bioactive compound - specifically, ellagic acid - from the fruit peel of Punica granatum L. The RI sampling protocol was refined using isolated peel, and a number of experimental factors were examined and optimised, including preparation of the peel samples, the current intensity applied and the pH of the medium into which samples were collected. The most favourable conditions (3 mA current for a period of 1 hour, into a buffer at pH 7.4) were then applied to the successful RI extraction of ellagic acid from intact pomegranates. Multiple additional phytochemicals were also extracted and identified by liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). A successful proof-of-concept has been achieved, demonstrating the capability to non-destructively extract phytochemicals of interest from intact fruit.

For the commercial-scale isolation of phytochemicals, a suitable plant biomass source (including species, origin, growing season, etc.) must be identified, and frequent analytical verification is required to ensure that the phytochemicals are present at predefined minimum threshold concentrations. While the latter are typically assessed in the laboratory, a more efficient and less resource-intensive approach would involve non-destructive and environmentally friendly measurements in situ. Reverse iontophoretic (RI) sampling offers a potential solution to this challenge. OBJECTIVE We aimed to demonstrate the non-destructive, RI sampling of phytochemicals of interest from biomass from four different sources. MATERIALS AND METHODS RI experiments were performed in side-by-side diffusion cells using a current density of 0.5 mA/cm2 , for a predetermined time in a defined pH environment, using (1) fresh leaves from Mangifera indica and Centella asiatica and (2) isolated peel from Punica granatum and Citrus sinensis. RESULTS Mangiferin, madecassoside, punicalagin, ellagic acid, and hesperidin were extracted from the different biomasses by RI. The amounts extracted ranged from 0.03 mg/100 mg of biomass for the cathodal extraction of madecassoside to 0.63 mg/100 mg of biomass for the anodal extraction of punicalagin. A linear relationship (r2  = 0.73) between the RI-extracted quantities of punicalagin and those determined using conventional methods was demonstrated. CONCLUSION The non-destructive, in situ measurement of phytochemical levels by RI represents a feasible approach for timing the harvesting process.

Dandruff is a common and challenging complaint associated with type of scalp, skin and population. Scalp seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is a more severe manifestation of dandruff associated with very severe itching and inflammation. Histamine is an interesting biomarker released in scalp affected by dandruff and SD even though the mechanism is not well understood yet. A monocentre clinical study was conducted to confirm the relationship between dandruff/SD and scalp histamine level in an Indian population. Highly sensitive liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry was used for histamine quantification in scalp from samples obtained non-invasively. Results showed that scalps with dandruff and mild to moderate SD had higher histamine levels compared with healthy scalps.

Abstract Introduction The mulberry tree ( Morus alba L.) is a prolific source of biologically active compounds. There is considerable growing interest in probing M. alba twigs as a source of disruptive antioxidant lead candidates for cosmetic skin care product development. Objective An integrated approach using high‐performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled with either chemical detection (CD) or high‐resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS) was applied to the hydroalcoholic extract of M. alba to detect and identify lead antioxidant compounds, respectively. Material and methods The twigs were weighed, powdered and homogenized using a mill and the extract was prepared using 70% aqueous ethanol. The antioxidant metabolites were detected with HPLC coupled with CD (based on the ORAC assay) and their structural identification was carried out using a Q‐Exactive Orbitrap MS instrument. Results Using this approach, 13 peaks were detected as overall contributors to the antioxidant activity of M. alba , i.e. mulberrosides (A & E), oxyresveratrol & its derivatives, moracin & its derivatives and a dihydroxy‐octadecadienoic acid, which together accounted for >90% of the antioxidant activity, highlighting the effectiveness of the integrated approach based on HPLC‐CD and HPLC‐HRMS. Additionally, a (3,4‐dimethoxyphenyl‐1‐O‐β‐D‐apiofuranosyl‐(1″ → 6′)‐O‐β‐D‐glucopyranoside was also discovered for the first time from the twig extract and is presented here. Conclusion To our knowledge, this is the first report from M. alba twigs using HPLC‐CD and HPLC‐HRMS that identifies key compounds responsible for the antioxidant property of this native Chinese medicinal plant.

Recently, several non-animal approaches contributing to the identification of skin sensitisation hazard have been introduced. Their validation and acceptance has largely been directed towards regulatory classification. Considering the driving force for replacement of in vivo tests centred on cosmetics, it is reasonable to ask how well the new approaches perform in this respect. In the present study, 219 substances, largely cosmetic raw materials (including dyes, preservatives and fragrances), have been evaluated in our Defined Approach integrating a stacking meta model (version 5), incorporating the individual outcomes of 3 in vitro validated methods (Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay, Keratinosens™, U-SENS™), 2 in silico tools (TIMES SS, TOXTREE) and physicochemical parameters (volatility, pH). Stacking meta model outcomes were compared with existing local lymph node assay (LLNA) data. Non-sensitisers comprised 68/219; 86 were weak/moderate and 65 were stronger sensitisers. The model version revision demonstrate the gain to discriminate sensitizers to non-sensitiser when the in silico TIMES model is incorporated as input parameter. The 85% to 91% accuracy for the cosmetics categories, indicates the stacking meta model offers value for the next generation risk assessment framework. These results pinpoint the power of the stacking meta model relying on a confidence based on the probability given in any individual prediction.

The European Regulation on Cosmetics (no. 1223/2009) has prohibited the use of animals in safety testing since March 2009 for ingredients used in cosmetics. Irreversible events at the chromosome level (clastogenesis and aneugenesis) are commonly evaluated by scoring either micronuclei or chromosome aberrations using cell-based genotoxicity assays. Like most in vitro genotoxicity assays, the 2D in vitro micronucleus assay exhibits a poor specificity and does not mimic the dermal route. To address these limitations, the current project aims to develop and validate a 3D micronucleus assay using the EpiSkin™ model. This project is scientifically supported by the Cosmetics Europe Genotoxicity Task Force. In a first step, two key criteria for the development of micronucleus assay, namely, the sufficient yield of cells from the EpiSkin™ model and an acceptable proliferation rate of the basal layer, were assessed and demonstrated. Subsequently, six chemicals (vinblastine, n-ethylnitrosourea, β-butyrolactone, 2-acetylaminofluorene, 2,4-dichlorophenoland d-limonene) were evaluated in the EpiSkin™ Micronucleus Assay. At least two independent experiments using 48- and 72-h incubations were performed for each chemical. Results showed good inter-experimental reproducibility, as well as the correct identification of all six tested chemicals. The metabolism of 2-acetylaminofluorene on the EpiSkin™ model was also investigated and confirmed by the formation of an intermediate metabolite (2-aminofluorene). These preliminary results from the EpiSkin™ Micronucleus Assay indicate that it is a promising in vitro assay for assessing genotoxicity. The availability and suitability of this test method contribute significantly to the development of non-animal testing methods in China and its impact on the worldwide field.

OECD test guideline 428 compliant protocol using human skin was used to test the penetration of 56 cosmetic-relevant chemicals. The penetration of finite doses (10 mu L/cm(2)) of chemicals was measured over 24 hours. The dermal delivery (DD) (amount in the epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid [RF]) ranged between 0.03 +/- 0.02 and 72.61 +/- 8.89 mu g/cm(2). The DD of seven chemicals was comparable with in vivo values. The DD was mainly accounted for by the amount in the RF, although there were some exceptions, particularly of low DD chemicals. While there was some variability due to cell outliers and donor variation, the overall reproducibility was very good. As six chemicals had to be applied in 100% ethanol due to low aqueous solubility, we compared the penetration of four chemicals with similar physicochemical properties applied in ethanol and phosphate-buffered saline. Of these, the DD of hydrocortisone was the same in both solvents, while the DD of propylparaben, geraniol and benzophenone was lower in ethanol. Some chemicals displayed an infinite dose kinetic profile; whereas, the cumulative absorption of others into the RF reflected the finite dosing profile, possibly due to chemical volatility, total absorption, chemical precipitation through vehicle evaporation or protein binding (or a combination of these). These investigations provide a substantial and consistent set of skin penetration data that can help improve the understanding of skin penetration, as well as improve the prediction capacity of in silico skin penetration models.

The abundance of xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes (XMEs) is different in the skin and liver; therefore, it is important to differentiate between liver and skin metabolism when applying the information to safety assessment of topically applied ingredients in cosmetics. Here, we have employed EpiSkin™ S9 and human liver S9 to investigate the organ‐specific metabolic stability of 47 cosmetic‐relevant chemicals.

An understanding of the bioavailability of topically applied cosmetics ingredients is key to predicting their local skin and systemic toxicity and making a safety assessment. We investigated whether short‐term incubations with S9 from the reconstructed epidermal skin model, EpiSkin™, would give an indication of the rate of chemical metabolism and produce similar metabolites to those formed in incubations with human skin explants. Both have advantages: EpiSkin™ S9 is a higher‐throughput assay, while the human skin explant model represents a longer incubation duration (24 hours) model integrating cutaneous distribution with metabolite formation. Here, we compared the metabolism of 10 chemicals (caffeine, vanillin, cinnamyl alcohol, propylparaben, 4‐amino‐3‐nitrophenol, resorcinol, 4‐chloroaniline, 2‐amino‐3‐methyl‐3H‐imidazo[4,5‐F]quinoline and 2‐acetyl aminofluorene) in both models. Both models were shown to have functional Phase 1 and 2 enzymes, including cytochrome P450 activities. There was a good concordance between the models with respect to the level of metabolism (stable vs. slowly vs. extensively metabolized chemicals) and major early metabolites produced for eight chemicals. Discordant results for two chemicals were attributed to a lack of the appropriate cofactor (NADP+) in S9 incubations (cinnamyl alcohol) and protein binding influencing chemical uptake in skin explants (4‐chloroaniline). These data support the use of EpiSkin™ S9 as a screening assay to provide an initial indication of the metabolic stability of a chemical applied topically. If required, chemicals that are not metabolized by EpiSkin™ S9 can be tested in longer‐term incubations with in vitro human explant skin to determine whether it is slowly metabolized or not metabolized at all.

BACKGROUND:We tested the cutaneous distribution of 50 chemicals in frozen human skin. The mass balance (MB) values for 48% of the chemicals were < 90%, possibly due to evaporation.METHODS:We confirmed the reduction in MB was due to evaporation for two chemicals tested in skin penetration experiments using a carbon filter above the skin to trap airborne chemical. An in vitro assay was used to predict the reduction in MB due to evaporation by comparing the recovery of chemicals after 4 h of incubation at room temperature in open and closed vials.RESULTS:Evaporative losses in vitro correlated well with measured MBs (i.e., < 90%) in skin penetration experiments (R2 = 0.81). There was a correlation of the MB with the vapour pressure (VP) which could be used to group chemicals according to their likelihood to evaporate during the course of a skin penetration study. There was also a correlation of MB with Henry's law constants, melting and boiling points.CONCLUSION:Our data support the use of a quick and simple test for volatility to account for the loss of MB in skin penetration experiment due to volatility. The best parameter to indicate the potential of a chemical to evaporate is the VP.

Skin sensitization is an important toxicological endpoint in the safety assessment of chemicals and cosmetic ingredients. Driven by ethical considerations and European Union (EU) legislation, its assessment has progressed from the reliance on traditional animal models to the use of non-animal test methods. It is generally accepted that the assessment of skin sensitization requires the integration of various non-animal test methods in defined approaches (DAs), to cover the mechanistic key events of the adverse outcomes pathway (AOP) (OECD, 2014). Several case studies for DAs predicting skin sensitization hazard or potency have been submitted to the OECD, including a stacking meta-model developed by L'Oréal Research & Innovation (OECD, 2017b; Del Bufalo et al., 2018; Noçairi et al., 2016). The present study evaluated the predictive performance of the defined approach integrating a stacking meta-model incorporating in silico, in chemico and in vitro assays, using the Cosmetics Europe (CE) skin sensitization database. Based on the optimized prediction cut-offs, the defined approach provided a hazard prediction for 97 chemicals with a sensitivity of 91%, a specificity of 76% and accuracy of 86% (kappa of 0.67) against human skin sensitization hazard data and a sensitivity of 85%, specificity of 91% and accuracy of 87% (kappa of 0.67) against Local Lymph Node Assay (LLNA) hazard data. A comparison of the in vivo LLNA with human hazard data for the same 97 chemicals showed a sensitivity of 92%, specificity of 51% and accuracy of 78% (kappa of 0.48). Thus, the defined approach showed a higher degree of concordance, as compared to the LLNA for predicting human skin sensitization hazard. Moreover, a comparison with the six DAs selected for evaluation of their predictivity in the study by Kleinstreuer et al. (2018) showed a similar high accuracy of 86% for 97 overlapping chemicals. The next step will be an independent evaluation of the DA for its integration in the performances based test guidelines (PBTG) for skin sensitization.

Skin metabolism is important to consider when assessing local toxicity and/or penetration of chemicals and their metabolites. If human skin supply is limited, pig skin can be used as an alternative. To identify any species differences, we have investigated the metabolism of 10 chemicals in a pig and human skin explant model. Phase I metabolic pathways in skin from both species included those known to occur via cytochrome P450s, esterases, alcohol dehydrogenases and aldehyde dehydrogenases. Common Phase II pathways were glucuronidation and sulfation but other conjugation pathways were also identified. Chemicals not metabolized by pig skin (caffeine, IQ and 4-chloroaniline) were also not metabolized by human skin. Six chemicals metabolized by pig skin were metabolized to a similar extent (percentage parent remaining) by human skin. Human skin metabolites were also detected in pig skin incubations, except for one unidentified minor vanillin metabolite. Three cinnamyl alcohol metabolites were unique to pig skin but represented minor metabolites. There were notable species differences in the relative amounts of common metabolites. The difference in the abundance of the sulfate conjugates of resorcinol and 4-amino-3-nitrophenol was in accordance with the known lack of aryl sulfotransferase activity in pigs. In conclusion, while qualitative comparisons of metabolic profiles were consistent between pig and human skin, there were some quantitative differences in the percentage of metabolites formed. This preliminary assessment suggests that pig skin is metabolically competent and could be a useful tool for evaluating potential first-pass metabolism before testing in human-derived tissues.

Skin is particularly exposed to oxidative stress, either from environmental insults such as sunlight or pollution or as a consequence of specific impairments in antioxidant status resulting from pathologies or aging. Traditionally, antioxidant products are exogenously provided to neutralize pro-oxidant species. However, another approach based on stimulation of endogenous antioxidant defense pathways is more original. Resveratrol (RSV) was reported to activate the Nrf2 pathway at nontoxic doses, from 20 μM up to 100μM, in primary culture of NHKs or in full-thickness reconstructed human skin. In parallel, a significant increase in glutathione (GSH) content, assessed by LC/MS analysis, was observed in both models. Following the development of a dedicated protocol for the reconstructed skin sectioning, a perfect visualization of the Stratum corneum, Epidermis was obtained on 10μm sections of some frozen samples. Thus MALDI-FTICR imaging at 20μm of spatial resolution was used to investigate the GSH distribution and relative quantification in both Stratum corneum and Epidermis of RSV treated reconstructed human skins at 20 and 100μM compared to a non-treated condition. GSH amount was confirmed to be significatively increased in the reconstructed tissues following a Resveratrol treatment at 20 μM and 100μM.