Strobilanthes cusia is a herb species of the Acanthaceae family. This plant is a well-known dye crop. A participatory experiment was conducted regarding S. cusia cultivation under bamboo stands. Strobilanthes cusia seedlings were planted in split plot design consisting of two treatments, with bamboo canopy cover (dense canopy, moderate canopy, sparse canopy, open area) as the main plots and the use of fertiliser (control, swine manure, NPK 16-16-16, NPK plus swine manure) as the sub plots, with each plot being 10 m 2 . Strobilanthes cusia seedling performance was best under sparse canopy, where on average shoot length was 22.80 cm, the number of leaves was 45.3, and leaf yield at the edge and middle of plot were 1.90 kg/plot and 1.86 kg/plot, respectively. Wet paste yield was best from S. cusia cultivated under the sparse canopy with NPK plus manure (337 g m −2 ) resulting in dried paste at 0.71 g m −2 . Financial feasibility showed that intercropping S. cusia under a natural bamboo stand of Dendrocalamus asper delivered net present value of Indonesian Rupiah 28,951,568 (USD 1,587) with benefit cost ratio of 1.58.

This study focuses on the potential for sustainable use of M. cochinchinensis, a yellow dye used in Javanese soga batik. Prices paid for M. cochinchinensis heartwood at the start of the value–chain (IDR 1,000/kg [USD 0.071/kg]) in West Timor are low, despite depleted wild stocks. Bulk suppliers to the batik industry in Java, however, sell M. cochinchinensis dye–wood at IDR 21,000/kg (USD 1.50/kg), trying to source this heartwood at low prices. Although we estimated 14.12 stems/ha, most (87%) were small stems (< 10 cm basal circumference [BC], 11.53 stems/ha). M. cochinchinensis dye is heartwood from large diameter (> 29 cm BC) stems (0.8 stems/ha [5.5%]). Recruitment of medium and large stems is poor due to browse of small stems by livestock. Wild stocks are unlikely to sustain current commercial demand. Natural mortality rates of this dense (c. 0.8 g/cm3) hardwood species are low, so we also concluded that the option of sustainable harvesting deadwood based on natural mortality rates was not economically viable. The most appropriate ways forward are first, to conserve M. cochinchinensis populations in remnant le’u (“sacred”) forests and maintain “trellis trees” in the surrounding landscape. Second, to promote M. cochinchinensis cultivation along wooden fence lines (bahan). Implementation of “living fences” at a large scale is possible, also improving food security by reducing livestock damage to crops. Third, to develop niche markets paying fair prices for sustainably harvested M. cochinchinensis dye–wood. Studi ini difokuskan pada potensi pemanfaatan secara berkelanjutan dari M. cochinchinensis, yaitu pewarna kuning yang digunakan pada resep soga oleh pembatik di Jawa. Harga yang dibayarkan kepada pemanen hati kayu M. cochinchinensis yang berada pada rantai pasar paling pertama di Timor Barat tergolong rendah (Rp. 1000 / kg (USD 0,071 / kg), padahal stok liar yang layak panen telah habis. Akan tetapi, penjual grosir untuk industri batik di Jawa menjual hati kayu M. cochinchinensis dengan harga Rp 21.000 / kg (USD 1,50 / kg), padahal mereka membeli dengan harga rendah. Dari kepadatan populasi yang diperkirakan 14,12 batang / ha, sebagian besar (87%) adalah batang kecil (< 10 cm lingkar basal (BC), 11,53 batang / ha). Bagian yang menghasilkan warna dari M. cochinchinensis adalah hati kayu dari batang berdiameter besar (> 29 cm BC) (0,8 batang / ha (5,5%). Tingkat kelangsungan hidup batang berukuran sedang dan besar tidak bagus karena anakan dimakan ternak. Stok liar tidak mungkin bisa menopang permintaan komersial saat ini. Oleh karena tingkat kematian alami dari jenis kayu keras dan padat ini cukup rendah (c. 0.8 g / cm3) kami menyimpulkan bahwa pemanenan kayu mati tidak layak secara ekonomi. Jalan untuk menjaga ketersediaan tumbuhan ini terdiri dari tiga tahap. Pertama, melestarikan populasi M. cochinchinensis di sisa hutan le’u (hutan keramat) dan memelihara “pohon terali” di area sekitarnya. Kedua, mempromosikan pembudidayaan M. cochinchinensis di garis pagar kayu (bahan). Penerapan “pagar hidup” dalam skala besar dimungkinkan, dan akan meningkatkan ketahanan pangan dengan mengurangi kerusakan kebun oleh ternak. Ketiga, mengembangkan pasar khusus yang mau membayar harga yang wajar untuk kayu pewarna M. cochinchinensis yang dipanen secara berkelanjutan.

A strategy that has the potential to contribute to the achievement of the targets established under SDG 8 (“Decent Work and Economic Growth”) involves the development of sustainable tourism to create productive job and livelihood opportunities and to promote local culture and products. In the province of East Nusa Tenggara (NTT), Indonesia, ikat weaving is an integral part of the cultural heritage of the region, with ikat characterized by unique design motives and the use of natural dyes. Unfortunately, in some areas, the use of natural dyes is diminishing as a result of competition with synthetic dyes and the limited availability of raw materials, particularly for the production of blue dye. The development of Indigofera spp. to produce natural, plant-based blue dye has significant potential to contribute to community incomes and employment. This study outlines a strategy for developing the use of Indigofera spp. as a natural dye and describes its potential for contributing to community incomes, especially on Timor Island, NTT. The study shows that weavers currently use indigo plants that grow naturally in gardens and yards. Although the community has a tradition of using these plants, informed by local wisdom, to develop the cultivation and processing of this plant through the application of the appropriate techniques, including innovative approaches to producing indigo paste, could enable the development of Indigofera spp. cultivation on a larger scale. The study shows that the availability of suitable land is high (±370 thousand ha), with 80% of the suitable land being categorized as critical. The study proposes a development based on the analysis of strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats to assess the manner in which these opportunities could be leveraged with the support and participation of local communities and other stakeholders by leveraging the culture and wisdom of the community regarding the use of Indigofera spp.

This case study describes the business practices, community relationships, and cultural insights developed over the last twenty years by an Indonesian social enterprise that markets culturally- potent, natural-dyed, handwoven textiles to high-value niche markets for the cultural, ecological, and economic benefit of indigenous women weavers.

Ethnopharmacological relevance: This is the first study of global trade in fruits of the widely used traditional medicine, Helicteres isora L. It is used in Ayurvedic, Siddha, Unani medical systems and/or local folk traditional medicines in Bangladesh, India and Pakistan. The roots are used in Traditional Chinese Medicines in China and the fruits in jamu products in Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. In addition, H. isora fruits are also used in "traditional" medical systems far beyond the natural distribution of this species, for example in Zulu herbal medicine (South Africa) and Kurdish herbal medicines (Iraq). Aims of the study: This study had three aims: (i) to assess the global trade in H. isora fruits; (ii) to study the H. isora trade from West Timor to Java in terms of actors and prices along the value chain and (iii) to get a better understanding of the potential of this species to improve household income in eastern Indonesia. Materials and methods: This study uses historical records, a contemporary analysis of global trade data (2014-2016) and field assessments of value chains and the biological factors influencing H. isora fruit production. Results: Globally, the major exporter of H. isora fruits is India, which exports H. isora fruits to 19 countries, far beyond the natural geographical distribution of this species. Over a 36-month period (January 2014- December 2016), India exported 392 t of H. isora fruits, with a Free-On-Board (FOB) value of Indian rupiah (INR) 18,337,000 (US$ 274,055). This represents an average annual export quantity of about 130,526 kg/year. Over this three year period, most of these exports (85.5%) were to Indonesia (346.58 t), followed by Thailand (6.85%). Indian H. isora exports are also used in many other medical systems, including Kurdish and Zulu "traditional" medicines in Iraq and South Africa. Formation of an Indian diaspora in Bahrain, Mauritius, South Africa, Tanzania and Trinidad and Tobago over the past 130 years is one of the drivers of H. isora fruit trade outside the natural geographic distribution of the species. In Indonesia, demand for H. isora fruits is supplemented by an intra-island trade in Java and an inter-island trade from East Nusa Tenggara. West Timor, for example, exports around 31-37 t of air-dried H. isora fruits per year to Java. At the farm gate, local harvesters in West Timor get 4000 IDR (c. 0.3 US$) per kg, with businesses in Java paying 25,000 IDR (c.US$2) per kg for H. isora fruits. This is similar to the price paid for H. isora fruits imported from India to Java. Conclusions: India is the major exporter of whole dried H. isora fruits, including to countries where this species has never been in traditional use. In Indonesia, H. isora fruit extracts are used in the cosmetic industry as well as in jamu herbal medicines, including "Tolak Angin", the country's most popular commercial "jamu" preparation. Indonesia also is the major importer of H. isora fruits from India. In eastern Indonesia, improved income to local villagers from the H. isora fruit trade could come from improved H. isora fruit quality due to better drying techniques. This would also reduce health risks along the supply chain from to mycotoxins that have been recorded on poorly dried H. isora fruits. There also is an opportunity for cultivation of H. isora in small-holder teak plantations in Indonesia, with harvest of H. isora fruits as well as the medicinal bark.

This paper focuses on lessons related to the development of viable medium, small and micro-enterprises (SMMEs) based on non-timber products in East Nusa Tenggara (ENT), Indonesia, that are relevant to the international aid shift towards private sector development and women's economic empowerment. Most of the products traded in the 11 428 market stalls surveyed in informal-sector market places in ENT were not from forests or agroforests, but were vegetables, second-hand clothes and other products. Most of the forest and agro-forestry products being sold were low entry-point, low-value products, sold as part of people's survival or coping strategies. Nevertheless, a few specialist products, such as indigo, hand-woven textiles, Symplocos leaf mordants and Lygodium fern baskets, have been remarkably successful in reaching global markets. Developing business partnerships with local producer groups and entrepreneurs is easier said than done, and requires strategic choices. In addition, enterprises need to be economically viable. At first, palm sugar from Borassus flabellifer, for example, seemed to be a viable product, but the costs of the fuelwood used to boil palm sap to produce palm sugar is the major constraint on palm sugar producers and household income. Ten barriers facing entry of non-timber products into commercial markets are identified that should be taken into account if long-term enterprise development based on these products is to succeed in the long term.

Hanging by a Thread: Natural Metallic Mordant Processes in Traditional Indonesian Textiles. Despite the availability of synthetic dyes and the impact of significant religious, social, and economic change, textile weavers in more remote areas of Indonesia continue naturally dyed textile production as a living tradition. This paper documents mordant plants in Sulawesi, West Kalimantan, and nine islands in eastern Indonesia (Bali, Flores, Java, Lembata, Nusa Penida, Rai Jua, Savu, Sumba, and West Timor). These plants, such as various Symplocos species, are hyperaccumulators of aluminum compounds. Other plants used as sources of alkaline ash, of saponifiable oils and fats and for ritual purposes in the dyeing process, are also recorded.

Hanging by a Thread: Natural Metallic Mordant Processes in Traditional Indonesian Textiles. Despite the availability of synthetic dyes and the impact of significant religious, social, and economic change, textile weavers in more remote areas of Indonesia continue naturally dyed textile production as a living tradition. This paper documents mordant plants in Sulawesi, West Kalimantan, and nine islands in eastern Indonesia (Bali, Flores, Java, Lembata, Nusa Penida, Rai Jua, Savu, Sumba, and West Timor). These plants, such as various Symplocos species, are hyperaccumulators of aluminum compounds. Other plants used as sources of alkaline ash, of saponifiable oils and fats and for ritual purposes in the dyeing process, are also recorded.