Oat beta-glucan (OG) is a polysaccharide with good water solubility. In recent years, due to its safety profile, OG has been widely used in the food and medicine fields, such as regulating immunity, lowering cholesterol, and treating psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. However, the mechanism of OG in epidermal barrier research is not well understood. This study demonstrated that topical application of OG improved epidermal healing and accelerated the recovery of the epidermal barrier by promoting epidermal cell migration and differentiation in human and cellular experiments. Mechanistic studies revealed a positive interaction between OG and the epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR) and regulated the expression of the extracellular regulated protein kinases, AKT serine/threonine kinase 1, and signal transducer and activator of transcription 3 via activation of the downstream EGFR. OG promoted re-epithelialization of keratinocytes via EGFR to promote skin barrier repair and improve skin condition. This study demonstrated the healing effect of OG on the damaged epidermal barrier. OG could be considered a valuable and potential component in the development of skin repair materials.

Introduction: In this study, a PDRN-loaded nanoliposomal (PDRN-NL) formulation, which exhibited an average particle size of 125 ± 1 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.12 ± 0.02, a zeta potential of -52.6 ± 0.8 mV, and an encapsulation efficiency of 81.3%. The stability of the PDRN-NL and its formulations was assessed using the Turbiscan Lab stability analyzer, which predicted a shelf life of up to three years. Furthermore, the in vitro permeability of the PDRN-NL was evaluated using the Franz diffusion cell method. Method: In this study, a PDRN-loaded nanoliposomal (PDRN-NL) formulation, which exhibited an average particle size of 125 ± 1 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.12 ± 0.02, a zeta potential of -52.6 ± 0.8 mV, and an encapsulation efficiency of 81.3%. The stability of the PDRN-NL and its formulations was assessed using the Turbiscan Lab stability analyzer, which predicted a shelf life of up to three years. Furthermore, the in vitro permeability of the PDRN-NL was evaluated using the Franz diffusion cell method. Results: Results indicated that the cumulative skin permeation of PDRN-NL over 24 hours was 1.22 times higher than that of free PDRN, with skin retention of PDRN-NL being 1.40 times greater. The in vitro release studies demonstrated that liposomal encapsulation not only enhanced permeability but also provided a sustained-release effect and improved stability of PDRN. Conclusion: Overall, the properties of liposome-encapsulated PDRN were significantly enhanced, presenting a novel solution for the incorporation of PDRN in the development of skincare products.

DNA hydrogels possess numerous unique and attractive features, including excellent biocompatibility and biodegradability, as well as inherent programmability, catalytic functionality, therapeutic potential, and precise molecular recognition and bonding capabilities. Furthermore, intelligent DNA hydrogels exhibit stimuli-responsive behaviors, transitioning between gel and sol states in response to various stimuli, including pH, temperature, enzymes, and others. Through intelligent, rational design and controlled preparation of DNA nanostructures, a broad spectrum of advanced applications has been realized. In this minireview, we focus on recent developments in the construction strategies, molecular structures, and functional mechanisms of DNA hydrogels. Additionally, representative applications of stimuli-responsive DNA hydrogels are discussed. Finally, challenges and the future outlook of DNA hydrogels are proposed.

In recent years, our understanding of photoaging and photoprotection has significantly advanced, with photoaging now widely recognized as a key factor affecting both the health and aesthetic quality of the skin. This paper explores the underlying mechanisms of skin damage caused by various bands of the light spectrum, along with the classical biological targets associated with photoaging. It proposes innovative strategies for effective photoprotection, including: (1) broadening protection beyond the ultraviolet (UV) spectrum; (2) tailoring sunscreen formulations to match different skin phototypes; and (3) adopting a comprehensive photoprotective approach that integrates prevention, defense, and repair. These strategies offer a theoretical foundation for the development of next-generation photoprotective products, contributing to the mitigation of photoaging and the maintenance of skin health.

The occurrence of nonenzymatic glycosylation reactions in skin fibroblasts can lead to severe impairment of skin health. To investigate the protective effects of the major functional ingredient from Gentianaceae, gentiopicroside (GPS) on fibroblasts, network pharmacology was used to analyse the potential pathways and targets underlying the effects of GPS on skin. At the biochemical and cellular levels, we examined the inhibitory effect of GPS on AGEs, the regulation by GPS of key ECM proteins and vimentin, the damage caused by GPS to the mitochondrial membrane potential and the modulation by GPS of inflammatory factors such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-2, MMP-9), reactive oxygen species (ROS), and IL-6 via the RAGE/NF-κB pathway. The results showed that GPS can inhibit AGE-induced damage to the dermis via multiple pathways. The results of biochemical and cellular experiments showed that GPS can strongly inhibit AGE production. Conversely, GPS can block AGE-induced oxidative stress and inflammatory responses in skin cells by disrupting AGE-RAGE signalling, maintain the balance of ECM synthesis and catabolism, and alleviate AGE-induced dysfunctions in cellular behaviour. This study provides a theoretical basis for the use of GPS as an AGE inhibitor to improve skin health and alleviate the damage caused by glycosylation, showing its potential application value in the field of skin care.

Recent epidemiological surveys based on Baumann's classification have revealed a notable rise in the prevalence of oily sensitive skin. The development of oily sensitive skin is primarily linked to the abnormal function of sebaceous glands. The function of sebaceous glands is regulated by several factors, including inflammatory mediators, neurotransmitters, and endocrine signals. Sensitive skin, particularly oily sensitive skin, is prone to local inflammation, which in turn disrupts the normal functioning of sebaceous glands. This creates a loop wherein increased oil production exacerbates sensitivity, while heightened sensitivity further stimulates sebum secretion, perpetuating a vicious cycle. This article summarizes our understanding of the four primary mechanisms underlying skin sensitivity and their impact on sebaceous gland activity. Accordingly, it proposes management strategies for oily sensitive skin and seeks to guide the development of skin care regimens for this skin type

ObjectiveThis research aims to explore how Puerariae Lobatae Radix regulates sebaceous gland secretion using network pharmacology, and validate its effects on important targets through animal studies.MethodsThis study utilized UPLC-EQ-MS to analyze Puerariae Lobatae Radix extract and identify potential bioactive compounds. Predicted targets of these compounds were obtained from the Swiss Target Prediction database, while targets associated with sebaceous gland secretion were obtained from the GeneCards database. Common targets between the databases were identified and a protein-protein interaction (PPI) network was established using the STRING platform. The PPI network was further analyzed using Cytoscape software. Pathway enrichment analysis was performed using Reactome, and molecular docking experiments targeted pivotal pathway proteins. Animal experiments were then conducted to validate the regulatory effects of the primary active compounds of Puerariae Lobatae Radix on key pathway proteins.ResultsThis research identified 17 active compounds in Puerariae Lobatae Radix and 163 potential targets associated with the regulation of sebum secretion. Pathway enrichment analysis indicates that these targets may modulate lipid metabolism pathways through involvement in peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α, SREB, steroid metabolism, and arachidonic acid metabolism pathways. Molecular docking analysis demonstrates that puerarin and daidzein show favorable binding interactions with key targets in these pathways. Animal experiments demonstrated that the administration of Puerariae Lobatae Radix resulted in a significant reduction in the area of sebaceous gland patches compared to the control group. Histological analysis revealed notable alterations in the structure of sebaceous glands, including reductions in size, thickness, and density. Furthermore, the expression levels of TG, DHT, and IL-6 were significantly decreased in the Puerariae Lobatae Radix group (p < 0.05), and immunoblotting indicated a significant decrease in the expression of PPARG and ACC1 (p < 0.05).ConclusionThis study demonstrates that Puerariae Lobatae Radix can regulate skin lipid metabolism by targeting multiple pathways. The primary mechanism involves inhibiting sebaceous gland growth and reducing TG secretion by modulating the expression of PPARG and ACC1. Puerarin and Daidzein are identified as key bioactive compounds responsible for this regulatory effect. These findings highlight the therapeutic potential of Puerariae Lobatae Radix in addressing sebaceous gland-related conditions.

Abstract As a developing country, China has a large population base of county women, but previous studies showed a significant lack of attention towards their skin status. This study is supposed to recruit, measure and portray the facial skin biophysical properties of rural females. The individual lifestyles were also investigated and analyzed to assess the risky or protective factors. There were 10 skin parameters measured of 350 rural female aged 18–65 years subjects (skin barrier status, color and elasticity). The trend of subject's skin parameters with age was analyzed through curve fitting, analysis of variance and Krustal-Wallis H test, with 0.05 as the significance threshold. The lifestyles related to "unfavorable" skin parameters were initially evaluated by chi-square test and crude OR, and then re-evaluated by logistic regression model and adjusted OR to control age. Rural females experience significant adverse changes in skin biophysical parameters with age, and they had lower facial skin hydration level and sebum secretion, higher transepidermal water loss and higher melanin content. Urban women had poorer skin gloss, more yellowish skin tone, and poorer elasticity. Self-reported oily or mixed skin was associated with high sebum and hemoglobin content. Skincare product use was a significant protective factor for skin hydration. Sunscreen product use was a protective factor for a number of skin biophysical parameters, but was not statistically significant after controlling for age. In conclusion, distinct skincare measures are recommended for rural and urban women based on their different facial skin biophysical properties and trends with age.

Ceramide3 (Cer3) is one of the important components of stratum corneum (SC) lipids with good moisturizing and repairing properties. However, it suffers from (a) poor solubility, (b) easy crystallization and precipitation, and (c) strong polarity and difficulty in transdermal application. This study aimed to load Cer3 into nanoemulsions (NEs) to overcome these mentioned defects. The optimized NEs formulation was prepared by high pressure homogenization method and characterized by several methods. The optimized ceramide3 nanoemulsions(Cer3‐NEs) exhibited a good physico‐chemical stability over 3 months under different conditions, with droplet size of 103.1 nm, PDI of 0.178, zeta potential of ‐39.09 mV, pH of 6.20 and encapsulation efficiency of 96.39%. Turbiscan results showed that formulations containing Cer3‐NEs have better stability than those containing free Cer3. The dermal delivery ability of Cer3‐NEs was assessed by Franz diffusion and confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRM). In vitro and in vivo penetration studies showed that Cer3‐NEs serum have almost 2‐3 times higher retention in the skin and permeation in the receptor solution compared to serum with free Cer3. The findings show NE is a promising carrier of Cer3 for topical administration in the treatment of dryness and barrier damage due to higher stability and better skin permeability.

While some cosmetic hydrophobic compounds have superior physiological activities, their formulation applications are limited due to low water solubility, stability, and bioavailability. This study employed pre-cationic nanoemulsion (PCNE) as a matrix to directly encapsulate fat-soluble raw materials through one-step high-pressure homogenization to simplify the nanoemulsion preparation process and reduce preparation time. The PCNE exhibited a spherical structure with small particle size (<100 nm) and high encapsulation efficiency (mostly > 90%), demonstrating excellent stability before and after encapsulating the raw materials. The antioxidant activity, in vitro release, and in vitro permeation of glabridin pre-cationic nanoemulsion (GLA-PCNE) were investigated. The experimental results revealed that GLA-PCNE possessed significantly enhanced DPPH radical scavenging ability compared to the free compound while exhibiting improved skin permeation properties; furthermore, it demonstrated controlled release characteristics. Based on these findings, PCNE hold promise as potential nanocarriers for expedited and convenient delivery of hydrophobic ingredients in cosmetic applications. [GRAPHICS] .

Recent studies have shown that changes in the gut and skin microbiome can directly affect the occurrence of acne. Regulating the skin and gut microbiome has brought new directions for the treatment of acne, and the most direct way to achieve this goal is to restore the balance of the microbiome through the use of probiotics. This review summarizes the relationship between acne and microbiome, and research progress in probiotics for the treatment of acne.

Ceramide NP (Cer-NP) has favorable effects in treating dry skin and barrier damage; nevertheless, their efficacy is hindered by a relatively low skin permeability. The most common used method to evaluate drug permeability in cosmetic filed is Franz diffusion cell, which have limitations in terms of experimental materials and manipulation, making it difficult to reliably quantify drug permeability in vivo on the human skin. In contrast, confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRM) is regarded as a versatile tool for tracking of the penetration of active molecules through the skin, which is non-invasive, non-destructive, and real-time and allows in vivo testing of ceramide permeability and efficacy as well. The goal of this study was to track the skin penetration of Cer-NP nanoemulsions (NEs) into the inner forearm skin, and to assess the short-term effects of Cer-NP on stratum corneum (SC) thickness, hydration, and intercellular lipids (ICL) conformation order using the water content and lateral packing order Slat = I2880/I2850, which were obtained by CRM data. Cer-NP penetrated into the SC and epidermis, and the amount of penetration reduced with depth and increased with duration and finally retained in the SC. The results also uncovered Cer-NP-promoted SC hydration and increased SC thickness and Slat. The research mentioned above demonstrated that Cer-NP NEs successfully penetrated the skin and performed moisturizing and barrier restoration functions. The penetration of ceramide NP nanoemulsions (Cer-NP NEs) in the skin was investigated from a qualitative and semi-quantitative perspective by Raman confocal spectroscopy (CRM) based on the Raman signals of Cer-NP. In addition, based on the changes in Raman signals of lipid and water molecules in the skin, it was demonstrated that the skin treated with Cer-NP NEs has a higher moisture content and a stronger barrier function than the skin treated with free Cer-NP.image

In recent years, sunscreen products have been the research focus in the field of daily chemicals. Sunscreen products with high sun protection factor (SPF), fresh skin feeling and high safety are the market hotspots of sunscreen products. This article systematically sorts out the key points of sunscreen synergistic technology from the aspects of sunscreen compound synergism, the influence of plant-derived active ingredients on sunscreen, the carrier modification of sunscreen microcapsules, the solid lipid particles and sunscreen product formulation system. This article explained the future development direction of sunscreen enhancement, hoping to provide scientific basis for the research and development of sunscreen product formula.

Background:Adaptogens are a class of medicinal plants that can nonspecifically enhance human resistance. Most of the plant adaptogens have relevant applications in dermatology, but there are still few studies related to their particular action and co-operative mechanisms in topical skin application.Methods:Plant adaptogens related articles and reviews that published between 1999 and 2022 were obtained from the Web of Science Core Collection database. Various bibliographic elements were collected, including the annual number of publications, countries/regions, and keywords. CiteSpace, a scientometric software, was used to conduct bibliometric analyses. Also, the patsnap global patent database was used to analyze the patent situation of plant adaptogens in the field of cosmetics up to 2021.Results:We found that the effects of plant adaptogens on skin diseases mainly involve atopic dermatitis, acne, allergic contact dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, and androgenetic alopecia, etc. And the effects on skin health mainly involve anti-aging and anti-photoaging, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, whitening, and anti-hair loss, etc. Also, based on the results of patent analysis, it is found that the effects of plant adaptogens on skin mainly focus on aging retardation. The dermatological effects of plant adaptogens are mainly from Fabaceae Lindl., Araliaceae Juss. and Lamiaceae Martinov., and their mainly efficacy phytochemical components are terpenoids, phenolic compounds and flavonoids.Conclusion:The plant adaptogens can repair the skin barrier and maintain skin homeostasis by regulating the skin HPA-like axis, influencing the oxidative stress pathway to inhibit inflammation, and regulating the extracellular matrix (ECM) components to maintain a dynamic equilibrium, ultimately achieving the treatment of skin diseases and the maintenance of a healthy state.

Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) are a series of stable compounds produced under non-enzymatic conditions by the amino groups of biomacromolecules and the free carbonyl groups of glucose or other reducing sugars commonly produced by thermally processed foods. AGEs can cause various diseases, such as diabetes, atherosclerosis, neurodegeneration, and chronic kidney disease, by triggering the receptors of AGE (RAGEs) in the human body. There is evidence that AGEs can also affect the different structures and physiological functions of the skin. However, the mechanism is complicated and cumbersome and causes various harms to the skin. This article aims to identify and summarise the formation and characteristics of AGEs, focussing on the molecular mechanisms by which AGEs affect the composition and structure of normal skin substances at different skin layers and induce skin issues. We also discuss prevention and inhibition pathways, provide a systematic and comprehensive method for measuring the content of AGEs in human skin, and summarise and analyse their advantages and disadvantages. This work can help researchers acquire a deeper understanding of the relationship between AGEs and the skin and provides a basis for the development of effective ingredients that inhibit glycation.

化妆品专业人才培养在我国处于起步阶段，化妆品专业作为工程学科，强调理论实践与应用。北京工商大学化妆品技术与工程专业入选2020年度国家级一流本科专业建设点。在教学实践中，本系《化妆品配方实验课》通过“课程-项目-竞赛”多维教学模式的建设、实施及教学效果总结，根据新时代学生的特点和自身存在的优势，激发学生自主创新、综合运用能力，并提高学校特色教学模式。为我国化妆品专业人才培养提供社会竞争力，并提升化妆品特色学科在行业的影响力。

Geographical, environmental and pollution conditions affect facial skin health, but their effects on skin appearance have not been elucidated. This study aimed to describe the skin barrier and skin tone characteristics of Chinese subjects according to lifestyle and environmental conditions using in vitro measurements. In total, 1092 women aged 22–42 years were recruited from 7 representative Chinese cities. Eight skin parameters (hydration, sebum, pH, transdermal water loss, individual type angle, melanin index, erythema index, yellowness) were measured using noninvasive instruments; individual lifestyle data were also collected. Data on four meteorological factors (air temperature, relative humidity, sunshine duration, wind speed) and seven air pollution indicators (air quality index, fine particulate matter, breathable particulate matter, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen dioxide, carbon monoxide and ozone) were collected in each city from the China Meteorological Administration. Facial skin characteristics differed significantly between cities. Facial skin barrier characteristics and skin tones showed regional differences, with a better skin barrier associated with the western region, as indicated by high skin hydration and sebum secretion and a low pH value. According to the value of transdermal water loss, lighter and darker skin tones were found in the western and southern regions, respectively. Environmental conditions affected facial skin status. Air pollution induced facial skin issues, with fine particulate matter and nitrogen dioxide contributing the most. Individual lifestyles affected the facial skin barrier and skin tone.

本文对香薷、山慈菇、独活、三棱、孩儿茶、远志六味中药进行提取,采用抑制透明质酸酶活性、清除自由基、抑制组胺释放实验来验证组方提取物的活性,并将其添加到乳液配方中,进行舒敏功效评价.结果表明:质量分数为6％的组方提取物对透明质酸酶抑制率达80.06％,对超氧阴离子自由基、羟自由基、DPPH自由基清除率均在70％以上;浓度为200 μg/mL的组方提取物抑制组胺释放率达52％,这表明组方提取物对透明质酸酶、组胺释放及三种自由基均有一定的抑制或清除作用.人体功效评价结果表明,添加了组方提取物的乳液能够显著减少皮肤血红素(P＜0.01),减少皮肤水分散失(P＜0.01),提高皮肤水分含量(P＜0.01),这表明该乳液能有效舒缓皮肤过敏症状,增强皮肤屏障功能.

化妆品风险物质是指由化妆品原料带入、生产过程中产生或带入的,可能对人体健康造成潜在危害的物质.随着化妆品消费市场的不断扩大,人们安全意识的增强以及近些年来层出不穷的化妆品安全事件,显示我国目前的化妆品安全形势不容乐观,化妆品的属性为日用化学工业产品,且长期施用于人体皮肤表面,与使用者的健康和切身利益密切相关,化妆品风险物质作为化妆品安全性评估的重要部分,逐渐成为化妆品企业、监管部门以及广大消费者重点关注的对象.本文从化妆品风险物质的来源出发,结合风险评估的重要性以及化妆品风险物质可能对人体健康产生的影响,重点就所列举的化妆风险物质的检测方法、法规政策、风险评估等方面归纳了国内外化妆品风险物质的研究现状.

化妆品科学与技术是一门涉及皮肤学、生命科学、化学、材料科学、设计学、市场营销、法学、监管科学、经济学等多门类、多学科的新兴交叉学科。目前全国有18所高等院校设立本科及以上化妆品相关专业和学科，由于国内起步较晚，国外设立化妆品学科专业的代表性高校较少，缺乏可借鉴的经验，我国化妆品学科建设仍处于起步摸索阶段。同时，国内化妆品相关科学研究基础薄弱，是民族企业产品市场占有率低、限制产业高质量发展的关键因素。本文重点综述了北京工商大学多个学科门类围绕化妆品科学与技术学科，如何协同开展应用基础研究，在“新工科”背景下推动高水平科研型大学的学科建设，并将原创科研成果转化至化妆品的全生命周期研发与监管，促进我国化妆品产业的高质量发展。